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Tow Bar...looks like a fun project. Your engineering so far
is impressive. I would have a tendency to isolate your tow electronics from the Can-Bus and go straight to battery for power. Having said that some guys pull power off the Can-Bus even though it is primarily a digital signaling device (Think RS 232 protocol on steroids). I am not sure how your ABS system would react if at all? Also, be aware that the rear subframe is bendable or tweakable so as to cause problems with straight or inline tire tracking. This occurs sometimes on tip overs with panniers that are to well attached and do not come off. (Forum gossip) Keep us posted
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[IMG]
Well I have now tested the wiring and it works fine - both with and without the engine running. No error messages. The power for the trailer does come off the battery, it is just the trace wires for the micro switches that come off the bike's wiring harness.Re the sub frame bending - well I guess I won't know until I go out and use it in the real world and see what happens. The greater amount of force should be transferred to the rear swing arm pivot points rather than the sub frame. I just have to redo the bar that drops down from the rear sub frame on the right hand side - I think in a really severe hit on a pot hole the wheel could come up and hit the stay. So I will do a new slightly more complicated version so this possibility is removed. Then it is off to test the tow bar in the real world. Cheers. Mal Last edited by malmac; 16-Jul-2010 at 11:28 PM (186). |
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The trailer is now operational and tows better than expected. It is not a free lunch but when my wife is happy then I am happier - so now we can get away a little more often on the bike rather than taking the four wheel drive Suzuki.
Malmac [IMG] [/IMG]
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I have not loaded the trailer yet so the question is still out there.
I guess I need to set a limit based on some experience. The trailer specifies 28kg max but I consider that way to high - so would be aiming for about 10 to 15kg. Any suggestions? malmac |
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