Let's Talk Engine Oil - Page 5 - BMW R1200GS Forum : R1200 GS Forums
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post #41 of 53 (permalink) Old 29-Aug-2016, 03:55 AM (371)
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I have used Amsoil in all my bikes for the last 13 years with no problem. For an ester based synthetic, it's a great deal. For the Gs I stick to 10000km intervals.
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post #42 of 53 (permalink) Old 29-Aug-2016, 07:38 AM (526)
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Let me share a story.....


About 4 years ago, I was a Kawasaki test rider for the new KLR. I was given the bike to keep for a full year to flog, draw some conclusions and write about them. An additional manufacturer decided to enter the testing and fray.....a oil blending company. They had just released a new 100% synthetic 10w40 and wanted a lot of real life use and lab testing. I obliged......

Here is what I learned..... The operators manuals for 2500 and 3500 pick up trucks are spot on. They provide standard service intervals and severe service intervals. And there is good reason. If a truck is being operated in high heat, lots of dust and pulling heavy loads, it needs attention much more often than a truck that never pulls a trailer and runs down the highway.

We should apply this wisdom and logic to our service intervals on our motorcycles.

The first 3,000 miles on the KLR were nearly all highway, with a lot of easy cruising. The next 1,500 miles were 7 days of my riding, pushing the bike off-road with a heavy load through some of the toughest trail that Colorado could throw at it. High mountain pass climbs pushed the engine temps to their limits and tested the clutch.

At the 3,000 mile OCI, the oil was solid in its viscosity and additives and TBN. It looked like nearly new oil.

We dumped that run of oil and did a fresh change for the trip. Upon coming home from the off-road trip and 1,500 miles later, the oil was dumped and tested and it was a disaster. 40wt had dropped to 20wt and there was little TBN left.

Same bike....same oil....same filter..... amazingly different results based upon riding conditions.

6 months later, just to test.... I did a similar trip as the 1,500 mile off-road, but ran Shell Rotella T6 5w40 Synthetic. (Because this has always been my 'go to' oil for nearly everything.) And the results were similar. Viscosity dropped to a high 20wt and the oil was thrashed. The next run....I went 5,000 miles on the Rotella T6, of mostly pavement and dirt road cruisers......and the oil tested out great.

Fellas....its all about riding style and riding conditions as to when someone should change their oil.

Granted.....its about the bike as well. If the bike has a wet clutch and shared sump with the tranny, the oil will go faster. On my 2005 GS and with my previously owned 2004 RT with a dry clutch and separate transmission sump......the bikes are very, very easy on oil and I have no issues going 6-8k miles on top shelf synthetic......and if I had to run 10k, I would not fret.


But when I ride my KTM 950 or my Yamaha WR426 in harsh conditions, they sometimes get an oil change at the 500-1,000 mile mark.

Just my two cents......

Big John
'05 1200GS
'04 1150GS

Last edited by Big_John; 29-Aug-2016 at 07:41 AM (528).
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post #43 of 53 (permalink) Old 14-Sep-2016, 10:46 AM (657)
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I have used Amsoil in all my bikes for the last 13 years with no problem. For an ester based synthetic, it's a great deal. For the Gs I stick to 10000km intervals.
I don't believe that Amzoil is an actual ester based oil, PAO (Group 4) at best but more than likely a combination of Group 3 and 4 base oils, not that it isn't a good product.

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post #44 of 53 (permalink) Old 14-Sep-2016, 06:39 PM (985)
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I will still experiment to see how close to horizontal the filter will be before dropping oil...worth a try.
It's REALLY horizontal. If I had to guess, I'd say 0 degrees to horizontal...I don't think it would hold more than a teaspoon without the oil running out.
What you could try is after draining the oil on the centerstand, putting her on the sidestand. You could probably put somewhat more oil in the filter without spilling, but I really don't think it would be a signifiacnt amount.
The filters--depending on whether you use OEM or aftermarket, like a Mobil 102 (think that's the number) only hold about 75cc, so you're not going to have much in there even if you try the sidestand.

Unless the laws of physics are suspended, I think you're looking at a frustrating mess.

T6 here, btw. ONe thing I really like about it, the T6 in the gallon jug, is that the gallon measure jug can be totally poured into the engine at refill and be right on the mark. IOW no necessity to measure along the way.
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Last edited by Dr. Strangelove; 14-Sep-2016 at 06:42 PM (987).
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post #45 of 53 (permalink) Old 21-Nov-2016, 12:29 PM (770)
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I know this is an old thread but I'm coming up on an oil change on my new to me 2014 GS and I had been using Mobil 1 4t on my Tiger 800XRx. Is this acceptable to use on the R1200GS? I see MA2 as an oil spec and I know the Mobil 1 is MA. Any thoughts?
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post #46 of 53 (permalink) Old 22-Nov-2016, 03:33 PM (898)
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Thoughts?

I'm not an oil engineer. I don't the the differences between MA and MA2. I couldn't tell you if it makes and difference or not. My book calls for SAE 5W-40 API SL JASO MA2. So I buy the cheapest name brand SAE 5W-40 API SL JASO MA2 I can find. I've not heard of an engine failure due to oil quality in a long time. That makes it easy to not obsess over oil.
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post #47 of 53 (permalink) Old 08-Dec-2016, 08:12 AM (592)
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Sale on Castrol 5W40 JASO MA2

I came across this sale while browsing on Amazon and ordered a case. Be sure to click on the $10 coupon box.

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-06113...s=castrol+5w40
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Last edited by GSALCRider; 08-Dec-2016 at 08:13 AM (592). Reason: Added link to web page
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post #48 of 53 (permalink) Old 08-Dec-2016, 09:47 AM (658)
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This is a good deal

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSALCRider View Post
I came across this sale while browsing on Amazon and ordered a case. Be sure to click on the $10 coupon box.

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-06113...s=castrol+5w40
That's a good deal!

I have been using Amsoil in my H*rl*y-D*vids*on, but that thing runs so hot it's a virtual oil torture chamber. The other one is a AMF era shovelhead (all stock!) that wants SAE-60 oil, and Amsoil makes that, I use it. The R-bikes don't run that hot at all, so using a more pedantic brand of oil should be okay. The HexHead RT gets Castrol Actevo, lots of miles, 5000 mile oil changes, no issues. It's a Semi synthetic and a very good value.

My oil change intervals are the manufacturers recommended times/mileage.

Way back when I worked at a dealership as a wrench, we had tons of bikes through the shop, and I can honestly say the only oil related engine damage I saw was when the oil that was supposed to have been on a surface in the engine wasn't. Popular bikes were oil injected two strokes, Kawasaki, Yamaha and Suzuki. The oil tank would run dry the owner never checked it and didn't notice, then the engine would seize up. Some riders would run their four stroke bikes completely out of oil, we are talking 15,000 freeway miles on a 350, no service ever, the lack of oil would cause engine destruction. When I took the engine apart the oil had turned to a black un pumpable black goop in the bottom of the crankcase. These are examples of extreme neglect.

Penzoil back then had a nasty habit of foaming up with air if the engine was run at very high RPM's for an extended time, the oil pump would cavatate and stop delivering oil to the top of the engine. Very bad outcome. Also there was a very early brand of Synthetic, Eon, that although was labeled as a 10-40 was way to light, when the engine and oil warmed up the viscosity got so low the oil pump couldn't provide enough volume to keep the pressure up, engine damage resulted. To their credit both companies, came, saw and paid for the customers engine repairs-then studied the issue and corrected it.

My only word of advice make certain what you put into the crankcase is the right grade and viscosity.

Motorcycle oil seems to be a religion to some, but in reality if the grade and viscosity is right I'd hazard a guess you'd be okay. Although if using expensive oil makes you feel good, then you should use it, because "If it feels Good, then do it!"

John

Last edited by Bumblebee; 08-Dec-2016 at 09:51 AM (660). Reason: Phixzd a Tippo.. :-)
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post #49 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-Dec-2016, 06:14 AM (509)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triman11427 View Post
I know this is an old thread but I'm coming up on an oil change on my new to me 2014 GS and I had been using Mobil 1 4t on my Tiger 800XRx. Is this acceptable to use on the R1200GS? I see MA2 as an oil spec and I know the Mobil 1 is MA. Any thoughts?
Two problems with Mobil 1 oils and the liquid cooled GS motor is that Mobil 1 does not the specified viscosity (5W-40) nor is the oil MA2 certified, the use of Mobil 1 10W40 4T for instance will probably have no adverse effect on the motor but if you are still under warranty it may cause problems with a claim if it should arise, another reason to use an oil with the exact specifications is that they are readily available and some are even very inexpensive.

While there are plenty of analogies of the lack of oil related engine failures there are plenty of other factors that using the wrong spec'd or poor quality oil can effect for instance; these BMW bikes are more like a car in terms of longevity and oil plays a role in the service life, the transmission is also lubricated by engine oil which has an effect on shift quality and longevity as well, I have around 50k miles on my 2013 and started using Castrol Power 1 oil as called for by BMW, I later switched to Shell Rotella T6 and noticed an improvement in shift quality, the last oil change I used Bel-Ray EXS full ester and can feel an even more significant improvement in the transmissions operation along with a smoother and quieter engine, I can't say for certain how any of these oils will do in the long run but I can't help but think that oils that make the engine/transmission run seemingly better may actually offer better lubrication.

With that said you could probably dump in the cheapest straight 30W dino oil you could find and run it 10,000+ miles per change and have your GS last a good long time.

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post #50 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-Dec-2016, 06:49 AM (534)
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As a veteran of untold oil threads it never ceases to amaze me why so many people think that one oil is so much better than another. I say that in the context we are talking about oil that meets or is close to manufacturers specs. That goes for change interval specs too. Something to think about. Have you EVER seen a case when oil that met or was close to spec causing a part failure? Have you ever seen any proof that shortening the change interval made the engine last longer? Have you ever seen engine analysis reports on what happens to oil if you go beyond recommended change intervals? (most that I have seen show you can extend oil intervals within limits without any impact) Last but not least, the majority of riders either sell or crash their bike way before the impact of whatever oil or change interval is used.
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