'11 R1200GSAdv service info

[portablejohn]

I just got a new R1200GSAdv, which (beside being my first BMW) might just be the coolest bike ever. I am trying to compile all of the service information I can find. I suspect that the R1200 has had some changes for the more recent years, so I hesitate to try and work from an older aftermarket manual.

I can wait a little while (as I think I'm going back to the dealer for the 600 mile thing), but I really enjoy doing all the labor myself. I've heard that the factory service manual isn't as helpful as one might hope, although I suspect it has all of the technical information in it.

The GS911 looks interesting, as well as the maintenance video that I've seen mentioned. Any thoughts or reviews would be appreciated. Knowing when I can start looking for the most recent aftermarket manual would help as well...

Thanks,
John

[marc]

The factory "manual" is the RepROM, a DVD containing the various maintenance procedures. Only it will have information pertaining to the overhead cam models. It will probably take Haynes and other after market publishers a while to catch uop. It usually does.

The DVD assumes you have the same knowledge (and tools) that a dealer mechanic would have. That is often enough for an experienced home mechanic. If it is not enough information you may take that as a hint that the procedure just might be above your skill level At least that's how I take it.

The GS-911 lets you read error codes (if any) before the service, reset the codes after the service, and perform some functions helpful during the service such as parking the throttle stepper motors to check idle and off idle balance. It also lets you read many real time values which can help diagnose problems. It also lets you reset the service reminder indicator.

[portablejohn]

I'm up to re-torquing the head bolts. If I understand correctly, I loosen each one, and tighten it back up (diagonally). Tighten to 20Nm, then turn an additional 180 deg. Is this correct?

Thanks,
John

[marc]

That is the procedure for '09 and earlier, performed at the 600 mile service. Loosen, OIL, tighten to 20 Nm, tighten 180º, them move on to the next nut. If you are using a torque wrench for the 180º step your final torque will be about 45 Nm.

However, I do not know if the same procedure is used on the overhead cam models. Perhaps someone with a version of the RepROM that covers the later bikes will speak up.

[portablejohn]

Well, I got the manual for the '11 R1200GSAdv. Nothing about re torquing head bolts, spark plugs or valves.

I did change the final drive oil, and boy was it black! I saved the oil in a cup. I taped a magnet to it, and I will see how much metal I can collect out of it. I am going to change it every 500 miles or so until it starts looking clean. I assume that it looked like honey when it went in...

Just waiting on the GS911 now,

John

[pdxrmccgs]

FWIW....I saw that the Haynes manual has been updated from
2006 model to 2009 model coverage. I have found it very good on
the mechanical fundamentals...maybe a little light on electronics.

[portablejohn]

I just looked at the oil after having it sit on a magnet. I guess I would recommend if anyone else has a new bike, change the oil as early as you can. Like after the forth time you ride it around. I mean it's not bad, the metal in the oil is almost like dust in size, and you can't feel it between your fingers, but well worth changing with fresh clean oil. I'm going to do mine again in a few hundred miles, and see how clean that oil comes out.

I also think I will change the transmission oil soon as well. Couldn't hurt...

It's really easy to do on the new ones. All you have to do is take the wheel off, which is five lug bolts. Turn the hub, so you can see the fill plug, and remove. Remove drain plug from bottom. Drain Oil. Replace drain plug. Fill with 180ml of appropriate oil. For this step, I went to the grocery store and got a syringe with a fat dull needle, in the cooking stuff isle. I cut the end off the needle with a dremmel tool, and de burred it with a small twist drill, and a small file. It's 35ml. I just filled it to 30 six times.

I guess I would describe the old oil as a ferro-fluid. I could move the metal residue around in a cup, after pouring off the cleaner oil. I will do it again, it's easy, and the final drive will likely live much longer.


John

[pdxrmccgs]

600 mile 2009 oil tests:

oil test from 600 mile service