abs cycling at 4 hz - BMW R1200GS Forum : R1200 GS Forums
 

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Old 24-Oct-2011, 05:14 PM (926)
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Default abs cycling at 4 hz

Hello people, thanks for reading.

I got a problem with my 05 GS and I īll appreciate some help.

I was experiencing some bad contact in the front break switch with make the abs cycling at 4hz and after some movement of the wire of the switch , blinked normal at 1 hz. After that I move the baike and the light went off and everything was all right. Some day I disassembly the switch, lubricate and "resolved " the bad contact. Every thing was fine but when I grab the brake for a little longer the pumpo never stopped and the brake light remains on. I tested the switch with a multimeter and there was no problem. I stabilish some resistance with the multimeter on the plug of the switch and nothing happens. When I mounted the plug in the switch I realized that when I brake, the lights(brake lights) go off and when I released the breakes the lights went ON. It was inverted! Then the pump went dead.

Yesterday night, nothing changed. Today morning the bike wonīt start. Appearlly a battery problem. I could hear in the first attempt some movement of the starter and after that just a CLOC, CLOC when I pressed the start bottom. I realize that was a battery problem. Now, at night I try to start and the bike comes alive but with no abs pump, abs light blinking at 4 hz and no advertence light. Just like it was. Ah, AND THE BREAKLIGHTS ARE ON ALL THE TIME

Is possible that a Abs Unit problem? A rusty connector? Canbus problem?

Tomorrow Iīll be disassemblying the abs and verifying the connectors.

I couldnīt think anything but this today

Thanks for help

Amithai
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Old 24-Oct-2011, 06:38 PM (984)
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The condition of the battery is very, very, very critical on a 1200GS.
The cloc, clock is the starter selenoid trying to cycle which indicates
bad battery. Get a new battery and keep it on a charger when you
are not using it.
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Old 25-Oct-2011, 05:11 PM (924)
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ok, Thanks for help, the problem was a bad contact in the switch of the hand brake. And it was inverted!

A bad battery can harm electrical circuits and units?

On the morning the bike did not start but at the night it started fine. I donīt know how long is that battery life. Do u think I can test it with a multimeter?

Bike off was 12,3 V. Bike ON I did not test yet. Should be 14 V?

Hugs

Amithai
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Old 25-Oct-2011, 05:18 PM (929)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amithai View Post
Do u think I can test it with a multimeter?
A load test is best. A multimeter is better than nothing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by amithai View Post
Bike off was 12,3 V. Bike ON I did not test yet. Should be 14 V?
12.3 is low. You should be above 12.6v.

12.7v = full charge
12.4v = 75% charge
12.2v = 50% charge
12.0v = 25% charge

Note: the voltage needs to be tested after setting for a while AND removing the surface charge. Turning the lights on for a few minutes will do the trick.

See, for example, Battery Tutorial -
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Old 25-Oct-2011, 05:52 PM (952)
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thanks for help!I īll test and post here.

So, I may damage electrical and electronics if it was bad, isnīt right? Or simply they donīt work fine?

thanks
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Old 31-Oct-2011, 04:49 AM (409)
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Default Pump remains on

Marc, I got a different problem. Now, my pump and my brakelight remains on when I keep pressing the hand brake for a little time and let go. All the time we do it! It doesnt appear to be the hand switch. Do you think its the abs unit?
If I press and let go , its ok.

Thanks for help

Amithai

Last edited by amithai; 31-Oct-2011 at 12:47 PM (741).
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Old 31-Oct-2011, 01:55 PM (788)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amithai View Post
Now, my pump and my brakelight remains on when I keep pressing the hand brake for a little time and let go. All the time we do it! It doesnt appear to be the hand switch. Do you think its the abs unit?
Unknown. The switches sometimes stick. The pumps sometimes go bad. Maybe the dealers diagnostic computer or a friend with a GS-911 can tell you more.
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Old 03-Nov-2011, 12:59 PM (749)
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Marc, i didnt have time to test the battery. But I'll do. I figure out that was the switch. It's out of contact with the hand brake. There's only a screw fixin it on the bike. Think is missing some part. Do u know what parts are the catalogs doesnt show very well, thanks
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Old 03-Nov-2011, 09:21 PM (098)
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The screw pushes against a tiny plastic piece that fits in a dimple on the switch. There is a dimple on the other side of the switch the fits on a nub that sticks out of the brake lever housing. The switch pivots (when the screw is loose) on the nub to allow it's position to be set. Loosen (don't remove) the screw and pivot the switch back and forth. You should hear it go on and off. If not you may have a sticking switch. In that case you may have to remove it to check. Be sure you don't loose that little plastic piece.
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Old 06-Nov-2011, 04:32 PM (939)
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I just lost it, another day .....

I'm trying to find another way to fix it. The switch is ok, the position is the problem. Do u think that tiny plastic comes with the switch when u buy it?

Tks
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