Winglets on 1200GS

[stuie]

Has anybody put the windscreen winglets on a regular GS like the Adventure come stock with? Hear they are very helpful, but wonder if it is a big deal to install...

Stuie

[stevef]

I put some on last spring. They are helpful, and were super easy to install. I am the least handy guy you'll ever meet, and it took me about 1/2 hour, tops.

[stuie]

Can I assume there is drilling involved on the plastic? I have not actually seen a set yet...did you get stock BMW ones? Thanks...

Stuie

[Sit]

Used the BMW ones, the Cee Bailey are bigger and I did not want them that large. You do have to drive two holes on each side. Took me about 10 minutes to line them up to the point I was comfortable with the placement, drilled the holes and put them on, less than 30 minutes. Have made a big difference.

[stevef]

Originally Posted by Sit

Used the BMW ones, the Cee Bailey are bigger and I did not want them that large. You do have to drive two holes on each side. Took me about 10 minutes to line them up to the point I was comfortable with the placement, drilled the holes and put them on, less than 30 minutes. Have made a big difference.

+1 You have to drill four holes, that's it. I used a medium binder clip to hold the winglets in place while I compared and measured the locations. Then I used an awl to make a point to start the drill bit so it wouldn't slip across the plastic, and the bit went right through. Piece of cake.

[andyclift]

I used the BMW ones and to get them in the right place just took measurements off a GSA in the dealers.

Covered the area of the beak with masking tape making it easier to mark out and help hold the drill in correct place and to be absolutely sure, after drilling one hole I fitted the winglet and used it as a template to be sure the second was dead centre and would not be straining the plastic.

Had them for nearly two years with and adventure screen and they are great.

[Thunder]

I’d fitted the GSA winglets to my previous GS and was aware of the benefits for rider and passenger, so when I found that the 2008 version of the bike now comes with support brackets for winglets and accessory sockets as part of the new frame it seemed like a waste not to head off to the dealers for the necessary bits.



Parts that are required including how many and BMW part numbers are:

SLIPSTREAM DEFLECTOR LEFT 1 46637694399
SLIPSTREAM DEFLECTOR RIGHT 1 46637694400
FILLISTER HEAD SCREW M5X20SI 4 06327657966
FLAT WASHER 4 46612308594
BUSH 6,9X2,3 4 46637664846
NUT M5 4 52532308647

Before you remove the beak feel underneath for the mounting bracket and mark the position of the mounting holes with a pencil on to the underside its worth marking the position of the accessory sockets as well just for reference.

To remove the beak I found it’s best to remove the tank panel first, on the previous bike this was not necessary but on the new model it’s a lot harder and while I eventually got the beak off it was at the risk of cracking it and I could not get it back into position with the tank panel in place.

Removing the tank panel is a lot easier than the previous model thanks to the new filler cap. Remove the side panels first (2 screws at the rear and one at the front on the stainless steel panel), then the rear tank panels (2 screws and it unclips), then the filler cap itself, remove the 4 black screws only and lift it clear. For safety I’d recommend putting a clean rag into the filler cap just in case you drop one of the screws.
Finally remove the 2 screws joining the tank panel to the beak, lift the tank panel and slide it to the rear of the bike.

To remove the beak there are 2 screws at each side, once removed you will be able to slide the beak forward to remove it, but be aware BMW have used mastic on the winglet bracket to prevent vibrations (see previous photo) and it means gently freeing the back of the beak. Take it easy at this part you do not want to crack the panel it’s a tighter fit than the previous version owing to the redesigned sub frame.

Once removed you will be able to see the positions you previously marked on the underside of the beak, they should be positioned within 2 squares formed in the plastic. If not refit and check them again, you do not want to drill holes in the wrong place at this point.
Drill a small pilot hole (3mm worked for me) at each mounting point and again refit the beak to check it is centred over the mounting point, if all is in place drill a final 6 mm hole to accommodate the 5mm flat head screw used to mount the winglets.

Before refitting the beak slip one 5mm spring nut over the frame at each mounting point, refit the beak and secure it in place.



Place a plastic bush under each hole of the winglet and a washer on the top then screw each winglet in place, don’t over tighten them.



Finally refit the tank and side panels and go try out the new deflectors.

[Pancho]

May I ask what are the benefits of installing these??

[Physt]

Pancho, the small shields stop most of the stomach and side wind. For the most part the difference isn't a big deal until you go for a long distance ride. After a few hours abdomen fatigue sets in and the small shields are nice for cutting it out.

Just for others....
I have the CB +2 in both directions and also bought the winglets about 4 months after getting the main shield. I found that the winglets needed to be cut to fit the bottom corners of the main shield. Not a huge deal (some time, small saw and a sanding tool) but info for those who are thinking about going the CB route.

[Chaos Theory]

I put mine on today. Not sure if it's the winglets or the new, significantly taller Cee Bailey's windshield, but it made all the difference in the world... As a side note, my stuff fit just fine ('07 GS).