Valve clearance check - Page 6 - BMW R1200GS Forum : R1200 GS Forums
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post #51 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-Jan-2017, 03:58 PM (915)
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Valve Shims

Can anyone tell me the size (outer diameter) of the water cooled engine shims?

Looks like the oem shims are about $7-8 each. I'm thinking it might be cheaper long term to get a kit/assortment.
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post #52 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-Jan-2017, 06:44 PM (030)
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Shims - How 2...

With a shim valve adjusted type engine, start by measuring the valve lash (the clearance between the valve stem and tappet). You'll need to remove the rocker box (valve covers) and rotate the engine to the correct position to do this.* There is a maximum and minimum clearance, I have a "Go/NoGo" feeler gauge that's just aces for this. The thickness of the gauge is the maximum clearance, then it's machined down to minimum clearance. So if the gauge will fit between the tappet and valve stem, it's not too tight, but it should stop at the ridge for maximum clearance, indicating it's not too loose. If this is what you have you're good to go. If the entire gauge slips through (too loose) or the thin part is too tight you'll need to adjust.

Now it becomes a measurement game. You'll need a set of thickness gauges in .01 mm increments, since you know the target clearance use the gauges to determine exactly how much change is necessary, measure the clearance, a good fit is required, then if the clearance is too tight you'll need to obtain a shim that is the difference between the clearance you just measured and the correct clearance.

Do whatever you need to do to swap the shim out, put it all back together and remeasure. Should be good.

Don't ask how I know...make sure it's sano. A spec of carbon or dirt in the bucket will throw the entire re-measurement off and you'll need to start over.

Observations - Air cooled engines (air heads, especially later ones) get a LOT of valve lash drift. These should be checked rigorously. 5000 mile intervals do it. Screw and nut adjusters. Easy. Oilheads are pretty low maintenance. After the engine settles in you only need to check them at 12,000 mike intervals. Heaxheads likewise, there is some drift that occurs. LQ engines, like my F-650, in 50,000 miles it's never required adjustment. From interval to interval it's always right on. I suspect that our LQ boxers will be like this as well, but it's a new engine design, so a little "trepiddaciousness" at first will go a long way.

People have asked me (I don't know why they should) why valve lash drifts. Usually the valve lash gets tighter, this comes from the valve steam stretching or the valve head recessing into the valve seat. This causes less lash, then eventually none, then the valve remains slightly open eventually allowing ultra hot combustion gases to pass by burning the sh*t out of the valve and valve seat. Wah Wah... The lash becoming looser is less common, this comes usually from poor lubrication between the tappet and valve steam, or perhaps wear on the rocker heel and camshaft, also steaming from either poor lubrication or poor metallurgy. (See Chinese diesel engines)

Anyway, that's what I know...

- John

* The Otto cycle, or 4 stroke engine rotates 720 degrees for every power stroke, so when you are looking for the right place to rotate the engine to set up the tappet adjustment marks realize there are two locations, find the right one where you have valve, the other one the valve will most likely be depressed down.

Here's a good video...

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post #53 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-Jan-2017, 11:39 AM (736)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Opa View Post
Can anyone tell me the size (outer diameter) of the water cooled engine shims?

Looks like the oem shims are about $7-8 each. I'm thinking it might be cheaper long term to get a kit/assortment.
I forget the shim diameter off the top of my head but I had the same mindset as you a few months ago and went looking for a kit, unfortunately these shims appear to be proprietary and no kit could be found.

Just to add my 2 cents to this whole valve adjust/check thing:

Make absolutely certain to keep things 100% clean in the engine while measuring or working, especially keep the cams clean when removing, any dirt could kill the engine.
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Last edited by JetSpeed; 06-Jan-2017 at 11:42 AM (737).
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post #54 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-Jan-2017, 06:05 PM (004)
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OH! This is good as an oil thread...
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post #55 of 58 (permalink) Old 23-Jan-2017, 03:22 PM (890)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetSpeed View Post
I forget the shim diameter off the top of my head but I had the same mindset as you a few months ago and went looking for a kit, unfortunately these shims appear to be proprietary and no kit could be found.

Just to add my 2 cents to this whole valve adjust/check thing:

Make absolutely certain to keep things 100% clean in the engine while measuring or working, especially keep the cams clean when removing, any dirt could kill the engine.
Got in there today to check. I miked the shim diameter at 8.838 mm.

Evidently that is not the same as the KTM 8.9 mm shims.



Hot Cams Valve Shim Kit - 8.9mm OD HCSHIM00 | eBay
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post #56 of 58 (permalink) Old 23-Jan-2017, 11:08 PM (213)
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Valve checks and shims

Indeed the shims are 8.9mm OD.
I check my valve clearances every oil change but is somewhat a waste of time. They hardly vary at all. I think every 20,000km (12,000 miles) is good enough.
I check the valve clearances because it's quick to do. Moreover, after loosening the valve cover I get about half a cup of oil from each side that doesn't drain with the drain plug moved.
After 50,000+ I haven't replaced the valve cover gaskets and have no sign of leaking oil.

Past: 1955 Norton ES-2, 1972 Norton 750 Commando Long Range Fastback, 1977 Honda 350XLE, 2001 R1150RT (written off), 2005 R1150RT, 2004 R1150GS, 2001 F650GS.
Current: 2013 R1200GS LC
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post #57 of 58 (permalink) Old 24-Jan-2017, 06:54 AM (538)
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Originally Posted by Houdini View Post
Indeed the shims are 8.9mm OD.
I check my valve clearances every oil change but is somewhat a waste of time. They hardly vary at all. I think every 20,000km (12,000 miles) is good enough.
I check the valve clearances because it's quick to do. Moreover, after loosening the valve cover I get about half a cup of oil from each side that doesn't drain with the drain plug moved.
After 50,000+ I haven't replaced the valve cover gaskets and have no sign of leaking oil.


Both exhaust valves on the right side of my 2015 are right at the limit and should be changed. This is at 46,000 miles. None of the other valves seem to be changing much.
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post #58 of 58 (permalink) Old 27-Jan-2017, 03:37 PM (900)
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first time

Recently purchased a 2012 gs with 35,000 miles on it. Did the first valve check on it today and replaced spark plugs. Everything was good, lower intake valve on left was in specs but close to the limit on the tight side. Others were right in the sweet spots. I'll be checking them again next winter and looking for changes. Hopefully they'll all be in exactly the same spots. Plugs looked good color wise but all the spark surfaces were eroded and rounded off. It idles much smoother with the new plugs. I suspect they had never been changed. Checked alternator belt but it looked fine. I'll put that off for a while.
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