To start with, here are the materials and tools you will need at a minimum:
- Oil (4 liters shown)
- Oil filter & new crush-washer
- Oil filter removal tool
- Oil filler cap tool
- 3/8" socket wrench
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 8mm Allen socket
- Oil funnel
- Container for old oil
- Paper towels, or shop rag(s)
The first steps are to get the bike warmed up (cold oil doesn't drain well), put it on the centerstand in a level workarea, and collect the tools and materials you'll need. I usually take the bike for a 10 min. ride, then let it cool for about another 10 minutes before I begin.
Some folks prefer to remove the bash plate first (before warming up the bike), so as to reduce the risk of burns from the hot exhaust. A reasonable idea, but removing the oil filter is the task that puts your hands closest to the exhaust pipe, and that can't be done before warming up the bike!
Remove the bash plate using the 10mm and 13mm sockets. In the photo above I put the nuts and bolts above their mounting holes to show where they are in relation to one another. I can't explain why BMW chose to use 3 different parts for this (13mm nuts, 13mm bolt, and 10mm bolt).
I also remove the oil filler plug at this time. I use a little tool I made, but a 19mm allen or various other 19mm tools will work as well. Note the rubber O-ring still seated in the filler opening above. You can leave it there, or remove it for cleaning. If you do remove it, remember to put it back!
Remove the 8mm oil drain plug (the red arrow above shows where it goes), and remove the old oil filter. The drain plug should have an aluminum crush-washer on it, but if not or if it falls into the dirty oil container, no worries because you should be replacing it anyway. Let it drain until just the odd drip is still coming out.
The oil filter tool I use is from Al Jesse. You'll need a tool of some type -- note that the strap type don't work. There isn't room for them to work.
Here's a photo of the OEM BMW filter, showing the part number. There's a new crush-washer taped to the lid.
Wipe off the mating surface, then reinstall the oil drain plug, shown above with the new crush-washer in place. Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm) initially, then to 24 ft-lbs (32 Nm).
Wipe off the mating surface, then install the new oil filter. I like to put a bit of oil on the rubber gasket to make sure it seals well (besides, getting the torque value right requires you pre-oil the rubber seal). I also fill the filter with new oil. I don't know if this makes a positive difference or not, but I hate that 'knocking' noise the engine makes for the first few seconds after an oil change, and it seems like pre-filling the filter would shorten that knocking time.
If you do fill the filter with oil, be patient, it takes several minutes, and maybe a dozen fillings before it is really full. I guess it's the filter material soaking up the oil that makes it take so long.
Torque the oil filter to 8 ft-lbs (11 Nm). I just tighten it by hand, then put the wrench on it and turn it an additional 180 degrees (or 1/2 a full turn).
Pour the fresh oil slowly into the oil filler opening on the top of the left cylinder. I use a funnel I made by cutting the top off an old plastic water bottle. It fits snugly and works perfectly.
You'll probably put about 3.5 liters (or quarts) in initially.
Replace the oil filler cap even though you aren't done yet. Make sure the O-ring, shown above sitting on top of the oil filler cap, is replaced as shown in the 3rd picture on this page.
This is what it will look like when you're done, but you aren't done yet! I suggest you fill it to this point, or a little more, then start the engine and let it run for 60 seconds or more. Then turn off the engine, and put the bike on its side-stand for 5 minutes. Then back on the center-stand. Don't ask me what the magic involved in this routine is, I just know that if you don't do it this way you won't get an accurate oil level reading.
After insuring that you have the proper oil level (at or just above the center of the sight glass window) don't forget to tighten the oil filler cap. It's worth double-checking all the fastners at this point, too.
Finally, please dispose of the used oil responsibly. Almost everywhere (in the USA anyway) that sells motor oil will also take old oil for recycling. I use an old 5 gallon gas can for that purpose to reduce the frequency of recycling trips I have to make.
Copyright © 2007, by H. Marc Lewis. All rights reserved.