When you get near all the way around you will find that you have to lever smaller pieces of the bead.
The last little bit will be hardest, but you shouldn’t have to muscle it excessively. It should pop on fairly easily. Occasionally you may need to give it a rap with a rubber mallet.
Remove the rim protectors and the C-clamp. Make sure there is still plenty of lube on it, as it will help the bead seat when inflating the tire.
Install the valve core and cap. Then bounce the tire several times around the circumference. This helps to set the bead.
Using a compressor with decent power, I have used the Campbell Housefeld compressor from my bike before but it doesn’t always work, to inflate the tire.
DO NOT HOLD THE TIRE NEAR THE RIM during this process. As the tire inflates it will POP onto the rim in a couple spots. If your fingers are in there you will not like the results. See the red arrow!
I have had a few instances where the tire took as much as 55 pounds of pressure to seat the bead. I wouldn’t generally go any higher than 50, though I know a few who have gone as high as 70.
If the bead wont seat, and no air is staying in, you may have to use a ratcheting strap to compress the tire to get the bead to seat with air pressure. Just make sure you remove the strap as soon as it takes air in and holds a few pounds. The pressure on the strap will not only make it hard to get off, but might cause the strap to come off explosively.
My friend Chris made this stand for me, and I attached the Beamerbalancer bearings to it.
Place the beamerbalancer insert onto the wheel, ignore the rod for a moment.
Install the adapter using wing nuts and nylon washers. Then add the rod through and put on the stepped sliders with black o-ring retainers, see above, and place it on the stand.
Notice I leave the weights on the rim? This is because sometimes it is right on with original weights, and this way I don’t have to remove them.
By the way, I did not balance this wheel. It was done for me at the MOA by the NoMar guy. I wouldn’t normally use that much weight, I would rotate the tire on the rim.
Rotate the tire 90 degrees from where it is and let go. The tire will, if not balanced, rotate on its own so that the heavy spot is down. If the weights are on, and the tire moves on its own. Remove them. If you release the tire and it doesn’t move, try again 180 degrees off, and if it still doesn’t move, the tire is balanced.
Try this several times until you are certain of where the heavy spot is, always down.
Next get some alcohol for the rim. No, not to get it drunk, but to clean it.
Clean the top of the rim; opposite the heavy spot exactly 180 degrees, with alcohol to remove grease and dirt.
Note: In this picture I spun the wheel 180° to show me cleaning the wheel.
The speed the wheel spins when released will give you some clue about the weight needed, but it takes some experience. Most wheels take less than 30 grams of weight, so you shouldn’t start with more than that.
I use tape to hold the weights on to test how much you need. Go through the process of checking at 90° intervals for balance. Once the wheel stops moving on its own when you release it, it might move a tiny bit and that is OK, you know you have the right amount of weight in the right spot.
I split the weights as evenly as possible and adhere them on both sides of the wheel. I don’t know if it helps, but it looks better, and works on car wheels.
You are no ready to remove it from the balancer, and install it back on the bike.
Place the wheel back on the bike and install all the lug nuts finger tight.
Then torque them to 60NM in a crosshatch fashion.