abs or brake servo not working - BMW R1200GS Forum : R1200 GS Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-Mar-2019, 02:45 AM (365) Thread Starter
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abs or brake servo not working

Hi is there a fuse for the ABS brake servo?
mine has just stopped working, occasionally I have had issues with my front brake switch which I have to disconnect and clean, normally the abs is still working though as can be heard, now there is nothing, no sound and the brakes are weak front and back.
so either dead servo or the fuse (if it exists) is the culprit.. any ideas where I look?
My bike is a 2006 version
so not the lastest two types
Thanks
simon from the UK
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-Mar-2019, 10:50 AM (701)
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I assume you have an '04, '05, or '06 bike. There are no fuses. There are a couple of things you can try but in all honesty they rarely help.

1) Do a complete brake fluid flush. You'll need a GS-911 or the dealer diagnostics tool to exercise the ABS when as part of the flush process. It is a time consuming job. The GS-911 can also tell you if the ABS unit is reporting any fault codes.

2) See Integral ABS - CAN (servo brakes) "Pressure in rear/front circuit too low"

3) See https://advrider.com/f/threads/abs-m...#post-15016545

Edit: If your bike is 2007 or newer the above does not apply because you don't have the power assist servo ABS. The later ABS units have issues with the motor drive brushes. Let us know your bike.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-Mar-2019, 08:02 AM (543) Thread Starter
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yes it is a 2006 model,

Hi, thanks for the quick reply.. the bike is an early 2006 registration so I guess that would be the version you mention.
Thanks for the links.
Simon
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-Mar-2019, 08:20 AM (555) Thread Starter
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flushing brake fluid oils on a yearly basis

Shameful as it is to admit I have never flushed my brake fluids on my bike, it might have had new pads fitted by my local gs mechanic but outside of that nothing done, so I think I need to get busy!!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-Mar-2019, 10:44 AM (656)
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The flush process on bikes with "whizzy" brakes is complicated because there are separate wheel and control circuits that need to be flushed. The reservoir on the handlebar, for example, does NOT directly connect to the front calipers. Some, not realizing that, have sucked the reservoirs located in the ABS unit dry while wondering why the fluid in the reservoir never drops.

Read this doc ==> http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf

to understand the brake flush procedure needed for your bike.

I work slow. I allocated about 4 hours to flush brakes on my '05. I did that every other year.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-Mar-2019, 07:08 AM (505)
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When I purchased my '05 4 years ago, it quickly developed a servo problem. Rear reservoir was bone dry. Previous owner did not know why since the bike sat idle in jis garage for 3 years. Dealer offered a $3000 repair. No thank you. After palying with the bike for awhile ( weeks ) it turned out to be an air bubble. 4 years later and nary a problem.

BTW, there is a service agency in Utah/Idaho that rebuilds for $350. I will continue to search for their link/info.

Found it

Module Masters

Talk to Tyler @ Module Masters

https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/



Here is a link to a discussion on Advrider

https://advrider.com/f/threads/servo...1200gs.994574/


Here is a youtube on ABS rebuild/removal/repair

https://youtu.be/R5xWPB_gvFY

Module masters recommends this before assuming ABSII is bad

BATTERY: This module is very sensitive to weak battery conditions, a battery less than 80% will often generate errors. Please install a brand new, fully charged, battery before concluding your ABS2 is at fault.

'05 1200 GS

Last edited by Southpaw; 11-Mar-2019 at 07:32 AM (522).
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-Mar-2019, 06:44 PM (989)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc View Post
The flush process on bikes with "whizzy" brakes is complicated because there are separate wheel and control circuits that need to be flushed. The reservoir on the handlebar, for example, does NOT directly connect to the front calipers. Some, not realizing that, have sucked the reservoirs located in the ABS unit dry while wondering why the fluid in the reservoir never drops.

Read this doc ==> http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf

to understand the brake flush procedure needed for your bike.

I work slow. I allocated about 4 hours to flush brakes on my '05. I did that every other year.
It's not a difficult process. Just tedious to get the Tupperware and tank off and back on again. I did it just shy of two years ago, and it took maybe four hours including replacing the front shock while I had the tank off.

Update 4/5/19: I did the job, just the brake flush this time, last Friday. Took a bit under two hours.

A few notes that make life a bit easier:

1) you really don't need the precision-fabricated wood blocks; you just need to fully retract the caliper pistons. Many people do this by shoving wooden wedges (standard hardware store shims) between the brake pads and rotors, or removing the calipers sufficiently to just fill the space between brake pads with shims. This is the way I did it when I found the blocks I'd carefully made were the wrong thickness...

2) you no longer have to do four separate bleeds on each control circuit. According to ADVrider, BMW released an updated procedure in 2006 (I believe) that requires bleeding only one fitting per control circuit. I've attached the photo from the ADVrider posting.

3) if you don't have a set of box-end bleeder wrenches, go out and buy some. Six point, 7mm (for the module) and 8mm (for the calipers). Cheap 12-point wrenches can round fittings and wreck your day.

4) the change consumes more fluid than you'd expect--buy a full liter, you'll probably use it all.

5) one more thing: while you don't strictly need the special funnel that threads into the module to fill the wheel circuits (you can make your own by wrapping tape around an ordinary funnel), I have found the one that Beemer Boneyard sells to be well worth the $35 investment.
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Whizzy brakes, no FD drain plug, what's not to like?

Last edited by saughblade; 05-Apr-2019 at 08:48 AM (575).
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-Apr-2019, 07:37 PM (026)
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Wow. I’ve never done this on my ‘05. Could be the reason I’m getting frequent rapid flashing brake failure warnings.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-Apr-2019, 08:56 AM (581)
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Originally Posted by xtophr View Post
Wow. I’ve never done this on my ‘05. Could be the reason I’m getting frequent rapid flashing brake failure warnings.
if you still have the power assist (strong brakes and the whining sound), I would not assume you've damaged the module. The rapid flashing "brake failure" light indicates the ABS system isn't getting a good signal from one of both of the wheel sensors. It always comes on when you start the bike, then normally turns off once you've rolled it a few feet and the module's detected this movement via the sensors. If it's staying on, the first place I'd look is the sensors themselves (one on the left fork leg, one in the final drive) and the thin metal sensor ring on the front wheel.

Though it's still a good idea to flush the brake fluid if it's been more than two years.

Whizzy brakes, no FD drain plug, what's not to like?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-Apr-2019, 02:01 PM (792)
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Though it's still a good idea to flush the brake fluid if it's been more than two years.

Yup. One of the issues of the whizzy brakes is that the power assist can hide poorly bled brakes and/or brake fluid that is well past its time. A procedure I followed after a brake bleed was to ride down a long local street and kill the ignition then try to stop the bike using what BMW calls residual braking power. That's the brake power you get when the power assist isn't on. If you are pulling the lever to the bar and the bike isn't slowing very much you need to re-visit your brake flush. Yes, once I needed to re-visit my brake flush.

That procedure also reminds you of what it feels like when the power assist stops so you won't be overly surprised should it fail for some reason while on a ride.
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