Strange R1250GS engine noise. - Page 18 - BMW R1200GS Forum : R1200 GS Forums
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post #171 of 220 (permalink) Old 29-Aug-2019, 09:50 AM (618)
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Awesome hack! heli_madken deserves a medal! Will see how my dealer in Japan responds to this.
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post #172 of 220 (permalink) Old 29-Aug-2019, 03:10 PM (840)
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HI Slijkmoto, have been reading the excellent discussion esp between you and Maturerider, I am of course very interested as I picked up my new 1250 GSA yesterday, and read this long string of posts TODAY? How happy am I!!!
I will be keeping an ear out as I find that I am reasonably sensitive to odd sounds. Problem is that I am coming from completely 1000 cc Japanese inline 4 engines, so totally different sound-experience. Very sad to hear of your experience, esp as it is apparently so loud.

I note that you heard the sound pretty much from day one, is that the case?

You two have done a very good job here, much appreciated . . .

Another 2019 1250 GSA owner nervously awaiting his ride home from work tonight . . .
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post #173 of 220 (permalink) Old 29-Aug-2019, 03:25 PM (851)
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Mine started after about a 1000k’s of mostly short city commutes. Don’t want to put you off your new ride but if you do have sensitive ears be sure to get good fitting earplugs. The 1250’s are noisy beasts. Tire noise up through the steering tunnel can be irritating, or even damaging for some ears.
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post #174 of 220 (permalink) Old 29-Aug-2019, 03:33 PM (856)
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heli_madken and the cure?

OK, second message here, now that I've finished 18 pages (while at work, no less!)

quick clarifier heli_madken if I may, looking at your second picture of the left side of the bike, and that you state that you turned the actuator anti- (or counter-) clockwise, does that mean that you effectively turned it towards or into the midline of the bike, is that right? am I interpreting your perfectly adequate phrasing correctly?

Just want to be sure, as I will pay attention now for the next few 1000 km and see if I hear the now well-described sound,

It's really fantastic that such a real-world problem could possibly have such a straightforward resolution,

on another note, but related to engine rpm etc., can you guys and anyone else with 1250 gsa experience, comment for me on cruising rpm's in 6th typical for you around 100 km/h or so? i.e., my 2001 Yamaha FZ1 (awesome engine, still going on Motul 300V at 150 000 km!) would sound perfectly smooth and happy, almost as if by design, to be at about 4000 rpm (1000cc inline 4) in 6th at usual highway speeds of about 100 km/h,

so as this, my first boxer and first BMW, is so new to me I have no idea of where that, sort of, sweet spot, is. What rpm are people settling out near to, at about 100 km/h?

cheers, you guys have been fantastic to read this afternoon, at work, . . . definitely a good board to belong to now . . .
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post #175 of 220 (permalink) Old 29-Aug-2019, 03:50 PM (868)
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OK, thanks Gdoss, that's exactly what I will be riding for the first 1000 km before the initial service dept recheck/general tightening and oil etc.,

Can't tell you the state of the pit of my stomach today as I read my way through 18 pages and discovered all this literally a day after picking the bike up, sheesh! reeeeel happy . . .

hope heli_madken's discovery is good for all with this problem, that's an awfully sweet resolution, he/she sure put the effort into both description of the cause, and its correction - the whole BMW 11xx/12xx boxer thing is new to me, weird new sounds and all,

right now it sounds like a rather large sewing machine to me, compared to a Japanese 1000 inline 4 . . .
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post #176 of 220 (permalink) Old 29-Aug-2019, 11:29 PM (187)
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Thanks for the comments everyone, is anyone with this specific noise going to try this resolution over the weekend? I am keen to hear if it helps anyone else.

I do feel I need to manage expectations here, this problem is very specific and seems to affect only a minority of bikes. My remedy isnt going to quieten any other form of mechanical noise. Also I havent completely eliminated the noise, on my bike it was horrendous, I believe I have reduced the noise by around 75%. If I pull away from lights slowly or 'lug' the engine in too high a gear I can still hear the noise. But if I ride in my usual manner which is moderately aggressive to aggressive I have to try to listen for it, if I go a stage further and listen to music on my helmet speakers which I normally do I dont hear it at all whereas it was unbelievably intrusive before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmariana View Post
quick clarifier heli_madken if I may, looking at your second picture of the left side of the bike, and that you state that you turned the actuator anti- (or counter-) clockwise, does that mean that you effectively turned it towards or into the midline of the bike, is that right? am I interpreting your perfectly adequate phrasing correctly?
Yes I turned the actuator body in towards the longitudinal centre line of the bike as far as I could without interfering with the front suspension, see below (apologies for the model). In truth I dont think it matters which way they are turned the idea is to change the airflow around the butterfly.

'IF' my theory is correct it should be possible to find a position that eliminates the noise completely as on other bikes, I had intended to take my bodywork off and ride/twist/ride until I achieved this but I am happy with mine as is now so may not bother.

Last edited by heli_madken; 30-Aug-2019 at 01:35 PM (774).
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post #177 of 220 (permalink) Old 29-Aug-2019, 11:36 PM (192) Thread Starter
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Dear heli madden,

You suggest slightly turning the actuator bodies. They are held in place by what looks like a type of stainless steel jubilee clips. Do I need to loosen these clips. If so how does one do that.

Bit nervous about just grabbing and attempting to move them with brut force!!!!

Many thanks in advance.
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post #178 of 220 (permalink) Old 29-Aug-2019, 11:50 PM (201)
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Yes, they are held in place by what looks like a one time only fastening that cannot be loosened and re-tightened as far as I can see. Tampering with the fastening may interfere with your warranty so dont touch it.

On my bike it didnt take much force at all, I was actually quite surprised that I could move them so easily.

What may of helped in my case was that the day before I had sprayed silicone everywhere getting ready for Autumn, this may have penetrated at least the top seal between the rubber hose and the actuator body.

You can see in the pictures below there is nothing to physically stop the actuator from being twisted
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post #179 of 220 (permalink) Old 30-Aug-2019, 02:39 AM (318)
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Hi,

Riding on a R1250GS with little bodywork around the actuators I removed nothing and have spent the better part of Yesterday afternoon hopping on and off my bike trying to adjust those things in accordance with heli_madkens instructions .
Since up till now I wasn't exactly sure about which way to turn the actuators in, I have managed to INCREASE the noise at first, and slowly achieved positive results when I started to turn the actuators inwards, as clarified in Ken's instructions today

However, since I did not remove any bodyparts, the grip on the actuators was "iffy" at best and I only managed to move them a few millimeters (even after applying some WD 40 to this area).

I also have the impression that they have the tendency to return to their initial positions after some riding.

The gain on noise reduction is therefore not very clear in my case and I wonder if there is really an audible reduction of the volume or if it's rather a case of wishful thinking .

I think however that heli_madken really has achieved a breakthrough and I am pressing my dealer to take up the slack on his side and to work on his noisy R1250R , on which bike he probably has also the means to loosen the clamp and to reposition the throttle body optimally.

Since however dealer Sr. has a limited grasp on English, I'll have to await the return from holidays of dealer Jr. next week.

I 'll keep you posted.

Last edited by Slijkmoto; 30-Aug-2019 at 11:48 AM (700).
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post #180 of 220 (permalink) Old 30-Aug-2019, 08:10 AM (549)
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Hi Slijkmoto, I moved mine by considerably more than a few millimetres more like 10 > 12mm, keep at it, it may be worth getting better access.

I realised that my previous drawing may not have matched what I actually did (I did it very early this morning!) although I feel it shouldn't make any difference but just in case see below. I cant imagine BMW making left and right handed throttle bodies so the actuator will be on the front on the right hand side not as I showed it.
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