[Mik1miller]

I recently purchased a 2005 r1200gs, on doing a service and check was unable to remove the drain plug from the final drive assembly the threads in the casing have been stripped by someone so ill have to remove the assembly and drain from the speedo sensor hole, just wondering if anyone knows of how much oil i should pop back in once drained overnight thanks in advance.

 

[Boxflyer]

180ml, the same as a normal service.

 

[Krons]

The only thing you'll miss without the drain plug is the ability to clean swarf off the plug magnet. (At least my 07 has one, assume yours does too.) I tend to clean some paste type swarf out of there with each change.

If you change the oil often and after warming the bike up to keep any contamination in suspension it should not be an issue.

 

[Mik1miller]

Mines the one without the drain plug so to fully empty ill have to remove it completely now which is a bit for a pain but hey ho thats life

 

[PerazziMx14]

Gently drive an EZ-out in the plug and back it out. Then replace the plug.

If the threads are tits-up a Time-Sert or Helicoil is your friend. There is a thread on the big adventure site that discusses this.

Cheers,

P-`14

 

[Mik1miller]

Gently drive an EZ-out in the plug and back it out. Then replace the plug.

If the threads are tits-up a Time-Sert or Helicoil is your friend. There is a thread on the big adventure site that discusses this.

Cheers,

P-`14

Thanks for the info your suggestion is the fix for sure its the female thread in the casting thats gone and the plug just spins ive used time serts before on exhaust manifold to good success, although the male plug is just spinning neither in or out, I thought about welding a long bolt to it so i can apply outward pressure as i turn hopefully picking up some usable thread with the pulling force, then like you say put a time sert in 🫣

 

[Kelvin]

Hey, I have done a good amount of sump plug helicoils in my time, but only on cars. Normally I have found that in this situation there is 1 or 2 threads of the sump plug through into the casing that are not dammed. The good threads struggle to engage and drive the sump plug out, so I normally get a flat head screw driver in between the head of the plug and the copper washer ( not to damage the sealing face of the casing) the gently leaver it out at the same time turning the sump plug. This it to try and force the undamaged threads to engage on something. Then repair with heli-coil or timesert. And ofcourse fit a new plug.
Hope this helps.

 

[Kelvin]

Or there may be 1 or 2 threads in the casing undamaged under the head of the sump plug but again not with a clean start for the plug to engage on an drive itself out. It just needs a little help to engage. But if you cant get between the head of the plug and the copper washer dont be tempted to go between the casing and the washer.

 

[Mik1miller]

Hey, I have done a good amount of sump plug helicoils in my time, but only on cars. Normally I have found that in this situation there is 1 or 2 threads of the sump plug through into the casing that are not dammed. The good threads struggle to engage and drive the sump plug out, so I normally get a flat head screw driver in between the head of the plug and the copper washer ( not to damage the sealing face of the casing) the gently leaver it out at the same time turning the sump plug. This it to try and force the undamaged threads to engage on something. Then repair with heli-coil or timesert. And ofcourse fit a new plug.
Hope this helps.

Trouble is their is no undercut flat to the plug to pry under its more like a grub screw thats seated down beyond the surface of the casing hence having the idea of tack welding to the plug im in no rush to do the fix as the oil in your their feels ok and i can still change it via drainage from the speedo sensor hole, i will have a go sometime when i got the time to set aside and a good clean tidy workshop thanks for the input