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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought I would share some details on my project to rid my GS of the servo brakes which seemed to stay on randomly when I let off the brake lever. There are many threads out there on this topic, but thought this could be to use of someone. The only cost was new brake lines and a can of DOT3 fluid. From what I read, there may be not other option in fixing this.

1. First step is to remove the fuel tank to gain access to the the ABS module and brake lines that run to the front and rear levers. This is relatively self explanatory, there is a fuel line quick disconnect on both sides of the tank and (2) electrical connectors on the left side. With the fuel tank out of the way, take of the air intake snorkel which goes to the airbox.
2. Remove all the hard steel brake lines that go to the ABS module, I believe there is (4) total. These are easy to remove, there is a small circlip on the module end and a threaded compression type connection on the brake end where it connects to the flexible braided line.
3. Remove the ABS module. The multi pin connector has to come off the top (to be re used) and there are (4) nuts on the bottom side which have to come off to free the module. It is tight getting your wrench in there, but it comes out.
4. The electronic end of the module has to be reused, you have to drill the screws out to remove the security type screws. Once it is free, cut the wires that go into the other end of the module I put some electrical tape on each wire to prevent them from touching.
5. I made a simple L bracket from a piece of aluminum sheet to close the electronic end of the module. I stuffed some foam inside along with some RTV sealant to make the electrical connections water tight. The bracket bolts into place using the existing bracket on top of the engine
6. I had some custom steel brake lines made from Speeding AB (great website). Unfortunately the stock lines are not compatible. This is the only cost for the project, I believe mine were $80 shipped. 55 CM length rear line and 65 CM front line. I also decided to run the front brake line direct from the master cylinder down to the lower triple clamp where it splits to each caliper. This eliminates the 4 way union located on the frame The rear line also can run directly into the rear master cylinder.
7. Once the lines are fitted, I used some zip ties to secure them and make sure they did not rub anywhere. I kept all of the ABS speed sensor wiring in place, I was not sure if removing this would cause any other issues.
8. Bleed the new lines and check for leaks.
9. Remove windscreen and loosen the headlight assembly to gain access to the instrument cluster (2 screws on each side). There are (5) small screws that need to come out to split the instrument cluster. Once the cluster is split, you want to locate the brake failure warning light and the exclamation mark warning light. I used some black rubber cut into small squares to cover the LED lights in these locations. With the lights covered, the cluster can be put back together and re assembled.
 

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Here is my version. I've actually started leaving the old ABS module in place as its really not worth removing to save a few pounds. Leaving it in place there is no need to remove the "brain" off the end then make a covert to seal it up and a mounting bracket to hold it in place. If you leave the assembly in as a whole it really simplifies the process. Simply suck out the old brake fluid and abandon in place. Everything is sealed and properly mounted.


Here's a link to how I make the jumpers. I have since made a jig but this give you the idea for a one off.


Next wanna see how to get rid of..... well..... cover up the the blinking ABS light??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here is my version. I've actually started leaving the old ABS module in place as its really not worth removing to save a few pounds. Leaving it in place there is no need to remove the "brain" off the end then make a covert to seal it up and a mounting bracket to hold it in place. If you leave the assembly in as a whole it really simplifies the process. Simply suck out the old brake fluid and abandon in place. Everything is sealed and properly mounted.


Here's a link to how I make the jumpers. I have since made a jig but this give you the idea for a one off.


Next wanna see how to get rid of..... well..... cover up the the blinking ABS light??
Losing 10 lbs of useless weight was to appealing to me..
 

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Losing 10 lbs of useless weight was to appealing to me..
It's actually just under 7lbs that you lose by removing the ABS. and probably closer to 6 pounds after adding SS brakes lines. Kind of like throwing a deck chair off the Titanic hoping it'd sink slower.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's actually just under 7lbs that you lose by removing the ABS. and probably closer to 6 pounds after adding SS brakes lines. Kind of like throwing a deck chair off the Titanic hoping it'd sink slower.
C'mon that's like getting a Li-Ion battery for free! And you get to rid the bike of all those rigid brake lines..
 

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I cannot count the number of times I said to my, self, self if only this bike was 6lbs lighter it would be unstoppable.
 
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C'mon that's like getting a Li-Ion battery for free! And you get to rid the bike of all those rigid brake lines..
But it still a negligible amount of weight reduction.
 

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Two things to add to this discussion. BMW does have in the parts books the non-ABS brake lines as they were used on European non-ABS bikes. I cannot quote the cost. Second, the brakes after this conversion are superb. Very strong with excellent feedback, some of the best brakes I have had.
 

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BMW OEM parry’s are about $150 for their jumpers.

Mine version is about $0.06
 
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