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Hi fellow fanatics!

I currently own a F650GS and want to buy a used 1200GS now, there are so many available but can't find a balance between the price/year model/mileage.

What sort of mileage would be considered too high?

Am I going to be spending all my money on repairs?

Any advice would be welcome!

Thanks

ANT.
 

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Me personally, I'd stay under 80,000 miles/120,000km. But I do my own maintenance work and repairs that don't require special tools. Boxer engines and transmissions if maintained seem good for 150,000 miles.

If looking at an oil cooled bike with more than 60-70,000 miles you should budget for a clutch. Doable by yourself but pretty involved. On a waterboxer clutch is not a big deal. Newer bikes have more electronics, while more features could be more costly to repair.

Everyone has their own risk profile for mileage, curious what others think.
 

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My 2016 GS has been 100% reliable for the past 61,000 miles. Highly recommend a wet head. Plan to keep it til it hits 100,000 miles
 

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I've bought a lot of Hexheads in the last year and while I won't say no to any of them but I prefer to to get "riders" with less than 40K. It also happens there is no shortage of bikes in this mileage range. Out of the 9 hexheads I've had 8 have been below 40K, 2 have been below 15K and only one was over 50K.

I'd also not worry too much about the clutch Unless a bike is beaten the clutch will not be hurt. If the bike was beaten then there will be a lot of other things that will also be worn. One of the bigger wild cards is the driveline but interestingly out of the 9 Hexheads I've had the bike with the lowest mileage was the one with a failing U-joint at 13,700 miles.
 

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I personally would go at least to the model year with the most meaningful features... I would personally draw the line at least at the earliest model year they incorporate Cornering ABS... the rest of the stuff.. keyless, etc.. is really meaningless in the grand scheme of things. From there I'd look at mileage and then demand to have the FD dropped in front of me to check the condition of U-joints and driveshaft. That could be a sooner than expected very costly event if your draw out of the hat was a bad one. The one other thing I would demand is a compression test. It's worth doing these at your cost if necessary prior to shaking hands. The other stuff, if you don't pick it out from a test drive and sharp eye look-over, it would be next to incredibly annoying for all involved to figure out and you'd just have to rely on its service history and general condition.
 

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2013 1/2 or newer LC gets you a lot of the newer features. I found one with only 6k miles last fall and bought it for a great price, one owner. I purchased over the web from across the US (from a BMW dealer) and had it shipped. For me it worked out, but it was scary. I've already put 4k miles on it.
 

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Personally I think the water cooled bikes were a big step forward for the R engine and the shift cam 1250 engine was another step forward. I've been really happy with the power and power delivery of my '16 1200GS and it's been really trouble free. One thing to think about is how you'll use your bike: road only, light off-pavement groomed forest roads, BDRs where you plan to do the gnarlier bits? That might influence the features you want on your GS - wire wheels, better protection parts, racks and luggage options.
 
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