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Discussion Starter #1
I got my GS at 5000 KMs ODO, skipped pads inspection as I've never changed pads prior to 10K KMs. Till last week I found out the bike is dragged significantly and the rear disc is blackened. Turn out the half of the metal plate
of the pad was gone! I feel like a careless ass*** couldn't do simple maintenance to the bike that treats me well.
As I'm waiting for the new pads to arrive. Is there any possible damage to the braking system or the shaft that I should check besides flattening/restoring the disc surface? Do I need to bleed or change the oil?
 

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Wheelie control is done by the rear brake! Any hard acceleration in the lower three gears can actuate the rear brake.
 

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Wheelie control is done by the rear brake! Any hard acceleration in the lower three gears can actuate the rear brake.
I don't know what year the bike is of the OP, or of your bike, but it feels like wheelie control on my bike ('16 GSA) is done by cutting engine power, not by the brakes. Is it actually the case that the brake is engaged to control wheelies??
 

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I don't know what year the bike is of the OP, or of your bike, but it feels like wheelie control on my bike ('16 GSA) is done by cutting engine power, not by the brakes. Is it actually the case that the brake is engaged to control wheelies??
Controls are, fuel injection reduction, brake control, throttle reduction (overides hand ) electronic firing advance or retarding.



Ged
 

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Restoring the disk is not something normally done on motorcycles. If it is unusable, then get a new one. It is unlikely that you damaged anything other than possibly the caliper. If it got very hot, then the seals around the pistons may be damaged and the caliper will need to be rebuilt. The rear brake fluid should be replaced as well.

It is not uncommon for this sort of thing being caused by the rider inadvertently resting his foot on the brake pedal. The fact that bike is new to you makes that scenario probable in my assessment. Assuming yours is a liquid cooled model, the brake pedal is not adjustable and trying to do so will cause problems. If the pedal height is unacceptable to you, then you should get an aftermarket adjustable pedal.

Another possible cause is that the prior owner tried to adjust the pedal height and caused the brake to drag. As part of the repair the pedal adjustment should be set to spec.

Do not feel badly. I know for a fact that I am the only person on this forum who has never done something foolish.
 

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As I understand it the engine retards the ignition approaching redline and the rear brake is for wheelie control at lower RPM. My 2014 GS 1200 LC with 65K miles will lift the wheel in the first 3 gears. 1st way before engine retard, 2nd approaching redline before engine retard and 3rd approaching redline. I very seldom take my bike to redline, but sometimes just have to blow out the cobwebs :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you! I looked at the owner manual and couldn't find the adjustment for the brake pedal. Can you please point me to the information to revert this to factory settings.

Restoring the disk is not something normally done on motorcycles. If it is unusable, then get a new one. It is unlikely that you damaged anything other than possibly the caliper. If it got very hot, then the seals around the pistons may be damaged and the caliper will need to be rebuilt. The rear brake fluid should be replaced as well.

It is not uncommon for this sort of thing being caused by the rider inadvertently resting his foot on the brake pedal. The fact that bike is new to you makes that scenario probable in my assessment. Assuming yours is a liquid cooled model, the brake pedal is not adjustable and trying to do so will cause problems. If the pedal height is unacceptable to you, then you should get an aftermarket adjustable pedal.

Another possible cause is that the prior owner tried to adjust the pedal height and caused the brake to drag. As part of the repair the pedal adjustment should be set to spec.

Do not feel badly. I know for a fact that I am the only person on this forum who has never done something foolish.
 

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If you are going to work on your bike, then you should get a BMW Service DVD. They are only available from a BMW dealer and will cost around $110. They do not sell a paper copy. I recommend also getting a Haynes Manual for your bike. It provides much the same information but often with more detail and pictures. The Haynes manuals sometimes have errors for torque values so best to double check on the DVD. Another good resource for doing routine maintenance proceedures is JVBProductions.com. There you will find videos and lists of info such as torque values.
 
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