R1200GS Forum banner
1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
R1250GS 2021
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have horrible clattering coming from both sides of the screen adjustment rails. I'm talking about those two shiny metal axles that slide through the support. Inside the support, where those two axles are sliding through when you're adjusting the screen, there are two white (khaki) bushings that look like they've been made of cheap plastic. The noise is coming from the bushings on boths sides. I have big screen and aditional brackets (Wunderlich) so the screen wobble very little. But on any, even slightest road imperfection, I can hear loud clatter. With bike parked, if I hit the top of the screen, I can hear those two bushings clattering. I tried to secure them with tiny screwdriver and the clattering is gone.
So, I guess good portion of some kind of grease could solve the problem, but which grease? I was thinking of staburags I have left from the last time I sealed gaitors on the drive shaft. It seems that it stays in the place and doesn't melt. Or should it be general automotive grease? Should it be greased at all?
Has anyone had this problem? The clattering is so loud I can hear it even with my ear plugs.
R1250GS 2021, 6000 miles.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
I have horrible clattering coming from both sides of the screen adjustment rails. I'm talking about those two shiny metal axles that slide through the support. Inside the support, where those two axles are sliding through when you're adjusting the screen, there are two white (khaki) bushings that look like they've been made of cheap plastic. The noise is coming from the bushings on boths sides. I have big screen and aditional brackets (Wunderlich) so the screen wobble very little. But on any, even slightest road imperfection, I can hear loud clatter. With bike parked, if I hit the top of the screen, I can hear those two bushings clattering. I tried to secure them with tiny screwdriver and the clattering is gone.
So, I guess good portion of some kind of grease could solve the problem, but which grease? I was thinking of staburags I have left from the last time I sealed gaitors on the drive shaft. It seems that it stays in the place and doesn't melt. Or should it be general automotive grease? Should it be greased at all?
Has anyone had this problem? The clattering is so loud I can hear it even with my ear plugs.
R1250GS 2021, 6000 miles.
Thanks
Bosnjo:

I just bought a 22 GSA and I'm sure I'll have the same issue. Touratec has a cure for this rinky-dink windscreen support. I found one from a place in England and ordered it. BMW R1250GS(A) Adjustable Screen Strengthening Brackets | Stop Windscreen Vibration They're not terribly expensive although freight for mine will cost ⅓ the price of my order.

This is my first accessory. Second will be a touring screen. Third, probably, will be a new seat. I say probably because I've needed one for each of the 4 RTs I've owned previously. This is my first GS...and it looks to be a dandy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,336 Posts
I have horrible clattering coming from both sides of the screen adjustment rails. I'm talking about those two shiny metal axles that slide through the support. Inside the support, where those two axles are sliding through when you're adjusting the screen, there are two white (khaki) bushings that look like they've been made of cheap plastic. The noise is coming from the bushings on boths sides. I have big screen and aditional brackets (Wunderlich) so the screen wobble very little. But on any, even slightest road imperfection, I can hear loud clatter. With bike parked, if I hit the top of the screen, I can hear those two bushings clattering. I tried to secure them with tiny screwdriver and the clattering is gone.
So, I guess good portion of some kind of grease could solve the problem, but which grease? I was thinking of staburags I have left from the last time I sealed gaitors on the drive shaft. It seems that it stays in the place and doesn't melt. Or should it be general automotive grease? Should it be greased at all?
Has anyone had this problem? The clattering is so loud I can hear it even with my ear plugs.
R1250GS 2021, 6000 miles.
Thanks
I know exactly what you mean
Mine does the same.... a few months into when i got it new in 2018.
Its the mechanism....dust goes into it and busts it.
And probably the screen strengthening bracket will not solve it. I have that reinforcement bracket and the clatter doesnt go away unless I fully tighten the support and if I do that I cannot adjust it on the fly. I have a puig reinforcement bracket.
 

·
Registered
R1250GS 2021
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bosnjo:

I just bought a 22 GSA and I'm sure I'll have the same issue. Touratec has a cure for this rinky-dink windscreen support. I found one from a place in England and ordered it. BMW R1250GS(A) Adjustable Screen Strengthening Brackets | Stop Windscreen Vibration They're not terribly expensive although freight for mine will cost ⅓ the price of my order.

This is my first accessory. Second will be a touring screen. Third, probably, will be a new seat. I say probably because I've needed one for each of the 4 RTs I've owned previously. This is my first GS...and it looks to be a dandy.
As I said in the first post, I have the brackets you are talking about, since the day I purchased bigger screen. The question here is about bushings inside the sliding mechanism.
 

·
Registered
R1250GS 2021
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
...I have that reinforcement bracket and the clatter doesnt go away unless I fully tighten the support and if I do that I cannot adjust it on the fly. I have a puig reinforcement bracket.
I have already fully tighten the support but the clatter is still there.
 

·
Registered
R1250GS 2021
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, I guess I'll have to pack the bushings with Staburags. It'll take a lot of effort to force the grease into the bushings.
 

·
Registered
R1250GS 2021
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just packed bushings with grease and achieved nothing. The clattering stayed the same so decided to investigate further. Finally found the source. Those shiny axles (one on each side), that go through the bushings I thought were the problem, are loose. There is a screw on each end of the axle and none of them is tight. It must be design. But to tighten them I have to take out the screen, front black plastic wind protection and screen adjusting mechanism. If the idea from the factory was to have those axles loose, I can't find the reason why. The bushings over those axles are quite loose already. Maybe the've loosen up on my bike, I don't know, but I'm going to solve this next weekend and will post the results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,336 Posts
Correct that screw is designed like that......its not loose.....I went through the same....tried turning them 5000 times lol but to no avail.
If you figure out a fix short of replacement let us know.
 

·
Registered
R1250GS 2021
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will do my best to find a fix for this (without replacing anything). I make my living finding fixes and improvising solutions for things that are broken and have no replacements or that not function properly due to wrong design. I'll take photos as I go. It'll just take some time as I'm away for work for few days.
It drives me mad as it's getting worse. I can hear the clattering now even with my earplugs.
 

·
Registered
R1250GS 2021
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Ok, solved the problem.
Those two shiny axles have bolts on each end. They look like they're loose but the bolts are tighten to max. I tried so many solutions and none worked. Especially because you have to remove so many items on the bike to get to the top bolts. Buttom bolts are easier to access. So, I first started by removing almost everything from the front of the bike, and I have zillion brackets mounted (screen reinforcments, GPS, TPMS display, phone holder etc, etc). After trying to remove screen adjustment mechanism, I gave up. It includes removing TFT, adjustment arm etc... so I gave up and started looking for easier solution. So, after mounted back on everything I removed (almost one hour job), I removed bottom bolts. There is only one way to remove bottom bolts (took me a while to figure out how). There is no access to top bolts without dissassembling all the front of the bike and when you turn bottom bolts, all the assembly turns
There is just enough room to insert Torx T25 and hold the bottom screw but not to turn it. So, first clean well the shiny tube with alcohol. Then grip it with force using strong pliers and piece of inner bicycle tube (not to scratch it). You cleaned the axle with alcohol so your grip won't slip. Insert Torx T25 to hold the bottom screw and start turning the shiny axle with your pliers. It should be easy. After it breaks free, you can remove the screw by hand and the axle stays in place. Then, if you look closely, you can notice that the shiny axle goes through the hole on the bottom bracket (I have no idea why) so the bottom screw just keep it from falling off. It doesn't bolt it onto the bracket.
After trying few things, I came to a perfect solution. All you need is one washer with 8,5mm - 9mm hole. The axle is 8,5mm. It goes through the bracket and then through one washer that is glued to the bracket. I was lucky to find washers with the same size as the washer glued onto the bracket.
As there is the bracket on the top and bracket on the bottom of the shiny axle, the axle goes freely through the brackets and the screws just keep it from falling off and it moves freely making the clattering noise. The problem is that the brackets should be 1mm further away from each other so the screws would keep the axle tight. That problem is solved by one washer. The axle still goes through that washer but now the distance between bracket is increased enough with the washer. The only complication is that you have to position the washer perfectly centered and feel that the axle went through when tightening the screw. I managed to mount the right side on first try but left side took 15 minutes of trial and error to center the washer. Job done.
The axles are now rock solid and all the rattling is gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Ok, solved the problem.
Those two shiny axles have bolts on each end. They look like they're loose but the bolts are tighten to max. I tried so many solutions and none worked. Especially because you have to remove so many items on the bike to get to the top bolts. Buttom bolts are easier to access. So, I first started by removing almost everything from the front of the bike, and I have zillion brackets mounted (screen reinforcments, GPS, TPMS display, phone holder etc, etc). After trying to remove screen adjustment mechanism, I gave up. It includes removing TFT, adjustment arm etc... so I gave up and started looking for easier solution. So, after mounted back on everything I removed (almost one hour job), I removed bottom bolts. There is only one way to remove bottom bolts (took me a while to figure out how). There is no access to top bolts without dissassembling all the front of the bike and when you turn bottom bolts, all the assembly turns
There is just enough room to insert Torx T25 and hold the bottom screw but not to turn it. So, first clean well the shiny tube with alcohol. Then grip it with force using strong pliers and piece of inner bicycle tube (not to scratch it). You cleaned the axle with alcohol so your grip won't slip. Insert Torx T25 to hold the bottom screw and start turning the shiny axle with your pliers. It should be easy. After it breaks free, you can remove the screw by hand and the axle stays in place. Then, if you look closely, you can notice that the shiny axle goes through the hole on the bottom bracket (I have no idea why) so the bottom screw just keep it from falling off. It doesn't bolt it onto the bracket.
After trying few things, I came to a perfect solution. All you need is one washer with 8,5mm - 9mm hole. The axle is 8,5mm. It goes through the bracket and then through one washer that is glued to the bracket. I was lucky to find washers with the same size as the washer glued onto the bracket.
As there is the bracket on the top and bracket on the bottom of the shiny axle, the axle goes freely through the brackets and the screws just keep it from falling off and it moves freely making the clattering noise. The problem is that the brackets should be 1mm further away from each other so the screws would keep the axle tight. That problem is solved by one washer. The axle still goes through that washer but now the distance between bracket is increased enough with the washer. The only complication is that you have to position the washer perfectly centered and feel that the axle went through when tightening the screw. I managed to mount the right side on first try but left side took 15 minutes of trial and error to center the washer. Job done.
The axles are now rock solid and all the rattling is gone.
Do u have any pictures of this project ?
I’d like to do this on my 2022 1250 GSA
 

·
Registered
R1250GS 2021
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No, I don't but if you follow the text it is dead easy to do. All you need is patience, rubbing alcohol, pece of bicycle inner tube and correct washers.
 

·
Registered
R1250GS 2021
Joined
·
549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When you remove lower bolt, just put the washer on it and put the bolt back on. It's that simple. The only thing you have to make sure is that while you're tightening that bolt back, the axle goes through the washer. For that, the washer needs to be perfectly centered. You will know if you've managed to do it if, when bolt is tightened all the way, the axle stops moving up and down when you grab it by hand. If it still moves (clatter) it means it touched the washer while you were tightening the bolt.
It is only possible to do it with the right washer (described in post #13). If the hole in the washer is smaller, you will achieve nothing.
If I can still help, just ask, I'll do my best to help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
When you remove lower bolt, just put the washer on it and put the bolt back on. It's that simple. The only thing you have to make sure is that while you're tightening that bolt back, the axle goes through the washer. For that, the washer needs to be perfectly centered. You will know if you've managed to do it if, when bolt is tightened all the way, the axle stops moving up and down when you grab it by hand. If it still moves (clatter) it means it touched the washer while you were tightening the bolt.
It is only possible to do it with the right washer (described in post #13). If the hole in the washer is smaller, you will achieve nothing.
If I can still help, just ask, I'll do my best to help.
Are u saying the washer goes right in the areas circled in green ?

between part number 6 and part number 12?

Also what is part number 8? It looks to be an existing spacer at the end of the axle.

additionally in your original article you mentioned that you were turning the axles and holding the bolts still. Would it also be possible to simply use pliers to hold the axle still while turning the bolt?



Map Font Auto part Slope Diagram
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
You will know if you've managed to do it if, when bolt is tightened all the way, the axle stops moving up and down when you grab it by hand. If it still moves (clatter) it means it touched the washer while you were tightening the bolt.
It is only possible to do it with the right washer (described in post #13). If the hole in the washer is smaller, you will achieve nothing.
Does this mean that what’s clattering or causing the collttering is a small excess space at the end of the axles between part number six and part number 12 on the above diagram which allows the axle itself to move up and down ?


also what do you mean by “ if ur still moves that means it touched the washer while tightening the bolt”?

are you referring to the axle getting caught up/not passing through the washer while tightening the bolts?

also what type of locking pliers did u use ?

channel lock or vise grips ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
I know exactly what you mean
Mine does the same.... a few months into when i got it new in 2018.
Its the mechanism....dust goes into it and busts it.
And probably the screen strengthening bracket will not solve it. I have that reinforcement bracket and the clatter doesnt go away unless I fully tighten the support and if I do that I cannot adjust it on the fly. I have a puig reinforcement bracket.
Did you ever confirm whether or not the bike did or didn’t do this clattering when you first got it brand new?

I ask because honestly I’ve always recalled hearing a obnoxious cluttering when going over bumps or accelerating at lower p.m. and hire gears I just didn’t put it together or notice it immediately at first because I was used to a bike that has keys in the ignition or something loose to jingle around/collater around when you’re going over bumps

Additionally, I wonder if this is actually something that has broken or worn out on our bikes or if it’s just a shitty design and does that from day one.

you said you also looked at your axles and your lower bolts also had a big enough space to allow them to move up and down and clatter correct?
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top