[bosnjo]

I have horrible clattering coming from both sides of the screen adjustment rails. I'm talking about those two shiny metal axles that slide through the support. Inside the support, where those two axles are sliding through when you're adjusting the screen, there are two white (khaki) bushings that look like they've been made of cheap plastic. The noise is coming from the bushings on boths sides. I have big screen and aditional brackets (Wunderlich) so the screen wobble very little. But on any, even slightest road imperfection, I can hear loud clatter. With bike parked, if I hit the top of the screen, I can hear those two bushings clattering. I tried to secure them with tiny screwdriver and the clattering is gone.
So, I guess good portion of some kind of grease could solve the problem, but which grease? I was thinking of staburags I have left from the last time I sealed gaitors on the drive shaft. It seems that it stays in the place and doesn't melt. Or should it be general automotive grease? Should it be greased at all?
Has anyone had this problem? The clattering is so loud I can hear it even with my ear plugs.
R1250GS 2021, 6000 miles.
Thanks

 

[bosnjo]

Bosnjo:

I just bought a 22 GSA and I'm sure I'll have the same issue. Touratec has a cure for this rinky-dink windscreen support. I found one from a place in England and ordered it. BMW R1250GS(A) Adjustable Screen Strengthening Brackets | Stop Windscreen Vibration They're not terribly expensive although freight for mine will cost ⅓ the price of my order.

This is my first accessory. Second will be a touring screen. Third, probably, will be a new seat. I say probably because I've needed one for each of the 4 RTs I've owned previously. This is my first GS...and it looks to be a dandy.

As I said in the first post, I have the brackets you are talking about, since the day I purchased bigger screen. The question here is about bushings inside the sliding mechanism.

 

[bosnjo]

...I have that reinforcement bracket and the clatter doesnt go away unless I fully tighten the support and if I do that I cannot adjust it on the fly. I have a puig reinforcement bracket.

I have already fully tighten the support but the clatter is still there.

 

[bosnjo]

So, I guess I'll have to pack the bushings with Staburags. It'll take a lot of effort to force the grease into the bushings.

 

[bosnjo]

Just packed bushings with grease and achieved nothing. The clattering stayed the same so decided to investigate further. Finally found the source. Those shiny axles (one on each side), that go through the bushings I thought were the problem, are loose. There is a screw on each end of the axle and none of them is tight. It must be design. But to tighten them I have to take out the screen, front black plastic wind protection and screen adjusting mechanism. If the idea from the factory was to have those axles loose, I can't find the reason why. The bushings over those axles are quite loose already. Maybe the've loosen up on my bike, I don't know, but I'm going to solve this next weekend and will post the results.

 

[bosnjo]

I will do my best to find a fix for this (without replacing anything). I make my living finding fixes and improvising solutions for things that are broken and have no replacements or that not function properly due to wrong design. I'll take photos as I go. It'll just take some time as I'm away for work for few days.
It drives me mad as it's getting worse. I can hear the clattering now even with my earplugs.

 

[bosnjo]

Ok, solved the problem.
Those two shiny axles have bolts on each end. They look like they're loose but the bolts are tighten to max. I tried so many solutions and none worked. Especially because you have to remove so many items on the bike to get to the top bolts. Buttom bolts are easier to access. So, I first started by removing almost everything from the front of the bike, and I have zillion brackets mounted (screen reinforcments, GPS, TPMS display, phone holder etc, etc). After trying to remove screen adjustment mechanism, I gave up. It includes removing TFT, adjustment arm etc... so I gave up and started looking for easier solution. So, after mounted back on everything I removed (almost one hour job), I removed bottom bolts. There is only one way to remove bottom bolts (took me a while to figure out how). There is no access to top bolts without dissassembling all the front of the bike and when you turn bottom bolts, all the assembly turns
There is just enough room to insert Torx T25 and hold the bottom screw but not to turn it. So, first clean well the shiny tube with alcohol. Then grip it with force using strong pliers and piece of inner bicycle tube (not to scratch it). You cleaned the axle with alcohol so your grip won't slip. Insert Torx T25 to hold the bottom screw and start turning the shiny axle with your pliers. It should be easy. After it breaks free, you can remove the screw by hand and the axle stays in place. Then, if you look closely, you can notice that the shiny axle goes through the hole on the bottom bracket (I have no idea why) so the bottom screw just keep it from falling off. It doesn't bolt it onto the bracket.
After trying few things, I came to a perfect solution. All you need is one washer with 8,5mm - 9mm hole. The axle is 8,5mm. It goes through the bracket and then through one washer that is glued to the bracket. I was lucky to find washers with the same size as the washer glued onto the bracket.
As there is the bracket on the top and bracket on the bottom of the shiny axle, the axle goes freely through the brackets and the screws just keep it from falling off and it moves freely making the clattering noise. The problem is that the brackets should be 1mm further away from each other so the screws would keep the axle tight. That problem is solved by one washer. The axle still goes through that washer but now the distance between bracket is increased enough with the washer. The only complication is that you have to position the washer perfectly centered and feel that the axle went through when tightening the screw. I managed to mount the right side on first try but left side took 15 minutes of trial and error to center the washer. Job done.
The axles are now rock solid and all the rattling is gone.

 

[bosnjo]

No, I don't but if you follow the text it is dead easy to do. All you need is patience, rubbing alcohol, pece of bicycle inner tube and correct washers.

 

[bosnjo]

When you remove lower bolt, just put the washer on it and put the bolt back on. It's that simple. The only thing you have to make sure is that while you're tightening that bolt back, the axle goes through the washer. For that, the washer needs to be perfectly centered. You will know if you've managed to do it if, when bolt is tightened all the way, the axle stops moving up and down when you grab it by hand. If it still moves (clatter) it means it touched the washer while you were tightening the bolt.
It is only possible to do it with the right washer (described in post #13). If the hole in the washer is smaller, you will achieve nothing.
If I can still help, just ask, I'll do my best to help.

 

[bosnjo]

Are u saying the washer goes right in the areas circled in green ?

between part number 6 and part number 12?

Also what is part number 8? It looks to be an existing spacer at the end of the axle.

Are u saying the washer goes right in the areas circled in green ? Yes

between part number 6 and part number 12? No, between part number 8 and part number 12. When all is mounted, part number 6 will go through it and still tighten to the screw number 12.

Also what is part number 8? It looks to be an existing spacer at the end of the axle. That is the washer/spacer that is glued/fixed to the bracket number 10. The problem is that it is not thick enough and that is why you are putting one washer to make it thicker.

Just for the informarion, the part number 10 consists in two parts. You can see on the image one bushing that is inserted inside the bracket and it doesn't come out. Part number 6 slides through that bushing making the windscreen adjustable. So, the bushing (10) is fixed inside the bracket (10). In the picture it is shown outside of it but when you look at your mechanism you almost won't be able to see it, Part number 8 is bellow the bracket, just like in the picure. It is outside the bracket but it is fixed onto it and will not fall of.
The problematic part is number 8. The axle (6) goes through the bushing inside the bracket, then through the part number 8. Your washer will just build more thickness to the part number 8 and the part number 6 has to go through that washer you put, too, just like it goes through the part number 8.

 

[bosnjo]

Does this mean that what’s clattering or causing the collttering is a small excess space at the end of the axles between part number six and part number 12 on the above diagram which allows the axle itself to move up and down ?


also what do you mean by “ if ur still moves that means it touched the washer while tightening the bolt”?

are you referring to the axle getting caught up/not passing through the washer while tightening the bolts?

also what type of locking pliers did u use ?

channel lock or vise grips ?

Does this mean that what’s clattering or causing the collttering is a small excess space at the end of the axles between part number six and part number 12 on the above diagram which allows the axle itself to move up and down ? Yes

also what do you mean by “ if ur still moves that means it touched the washer while tightening the bolt”? It means the washer wasn't centered properly and the axle instead of going through it, it sits on top of it. You will know if you try to shake the axle up and down and it moves. After the job was properly done, the axle has to be rock solid.

also what type of locking pliers did u use ? channel lock or vise grips ? I used channel lock

 

[bosnjo]

Also is it possible to tighten the screw and hold the axle rather than the other way around like you did it where you were turning the axle instead of the screw?

also where did you get your washer because I’m trying to figure out what washer size meets the requirements for the inner diameter hole size.

I was not able to turn the screw because there was barely enough space to insert the torx key of this kind, but not to turn it:

I found the washer in the box where I keep a lot of washers. Don't worry about the washer thickness or size. Any size or thickness will work as long as inside hole diameter is right. I'm sure you'll find washer with 9mm hole in your local hardware store. Just ask for M9 washer.
Here is example:
M9 Washer

 

[bosnjo]

Did you ever confirm whether or not the bike did or didn’t do this clattering when you first got it brand new?

I ask because honestly I’ve always recalled hearing a obnoxious cluttering when going over bumps or accelerating at lower p.m. and hire gears I just didn’t put it together or notice it immediately at first because I was used to a bike that has keys in the ignition or something loose to jingle around/collater around when you’re going over bumps

Additionally, I wonder if this is actually something that has broken or worn out on our bikes or if it’s just a shitty design and does that from day one.

you said you also looked at your axles and your lower bolts also had a big enough space to allow them to move up and down and clatter correct?

The clattering was there from new but not that much. The axles were lubricated with Staburags from factory and as the lube disappeared by time (washing, rain, dust), the clattering got worse. My first attempt was lubricating the sliding mechanism with Staburags again. I made a lot of mess and cluttering just got a little better but was still there.
From my point of veiw, it's just down to bad design. The factory wanted to have the axle loose a bit but they didn't think it could clatter. With the work I've done, the axle is rock solid and it's all good for me. Done many miles since the washer installation and everything still looks perfect for me.
And yes, it is correct to say when I first inspected the axles they had enough space to move up and down.
I also have big aftermarket screen (Wunderlich Marathon). It is heavier then OEM so it may make the things worse. I have the recommended extra brackets for big screens but those support the screen to prevent the horizontal shake, not the vertical and the problem is the vertical movement/shake/clatter when you go over a bumps.

 

[bosnjo]

so it doesn’t matter if the overall diameter of the washer is larger than the overall diameter of the axle and bolt so it sticks out and isn’t flush?

That is correct.

 

[bosnjo]

It’s interesting you say vertical versus horizontal because my axles don’t seem to have any vertical movement they have a lot of horizontal movement to the point where that seems to be where I can force them to make a noise if I hold them and jiggle them by hand.

also does your adjustment mechanism still work the way it did before you added the washers?

You are correct and my memory is a bit short as it was some time ago. What I wanted to say is that the extra bracket provide support for forward-backwards movement (not horizontal) but not for side-to-side movement (not vertical).
And now that you talked about jiggling the axles, yes, now I remember that they moved exactly like that on my bike, making that clattering noise.
My mechanism works well. I keep it lubricared (any lube will work) and clean. However, I never touch it while I ride. If I have to make any adjustment, I stop and turn the knob with one hand and with other hand I grab the top of the screen and help it move. As I have the extra brackets, I have to release the knobs on those brackets first.

 

[bosnjo]

That kind of buzzing I didn't have before or after the washers installation. But, it could be related, I don't know. You'll only know after the washers installation.

 

[bosnjo]

One more question for clarification.

In earlier posts I asked and got an answer regarding your axles and whether they moved/jiggled before the additional washer but I’ve never asked if they rotated/spun

I noticed that a good amount of noise is also created from the axles spinning in place even once both screws on top and bottom have been tightened.

did your axles spin in place before you added the washer and did that fix/resolve that problem as well as the jiggling?

I cant tell you for sure but as they were loose I could bet they were spinning freely.

 

[bosnjo]

One follow-up question regarding this as well.
Did the part number 8 bearing /bushing on bottom or the number 5 bushing /bearing on top shows signs of being deteriorated/broken ?

I ask because I’m trying to figure out if the rattling might be coming from that bushing being broken or defective or if seems to just happen regardless

As I explained before, nothing is broken. It's just the design that has been made that way and if you want to fix it, try not to overthink the whole thing. You could have done it already.

 

[bosnjo]

May be something different, not connected to the screen mechanism.

 

[bosnjo]

Well ya but what ?

I can't answer that from this distance.