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Discussion Starter #1
Hello BMW R1200 GS Illuminati....

My clutch has been starting to slip and was told that the fluid was non-standard or non BMW.
I thought the slippage may have been due to an incorrect fluid with the wrong sg (specific gravity) or viscosity.
I’ve had the fluid removed and replaced with BMW stuff... still experiencing slippage.

Has anyone had to replace a clutch plate assembly?

Was it an expensive exercise?

How long does it take an authorised dealer to do such a thing?

I’m told the gearbox has to be removed as well to change the clutch plates... is this correct?

I look forward to your feedback.

Biggles
 

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I had mine replaced on my 2014 LC while the stator was replaced under warranty. Clutch kit was $800 and no labor because clutch was out for stator.
 

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The clutch is not subject to the high heat of brakes. That lets BMW use mineral oil instead of brake fluid in the clutch circuit. I don't know what BMW uses today, but when the R1200 first came out they were using a BMW branded version of Magura Blue Blood.

But before you worry about the kind of clutch fluid, have you checked the clutch fluid level? I can not say this often enough given how many people don't understand: as the clutch wears the fluid in the reservoir rises. If you don't open the reservoir every once in a while (I check every service) and make sure the fluid level is not above the MAX indicator you can run into the situation where the clutch never fully disengages which leads to slipping.
 

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The clutch is not subject to the high heat of brakes. That lets BMW use mineral oil instead of brake fluid in the clutch circuit. I don't know what BMW uses today, but when the R1200 first came out they were using a BMW branded version of Magura Blue Blood.

But before you worry about the kind of clutch fluid, have you checked the clutch fluid level? I can not say this often enough given how many people don't understand: as the clutch wears the fluid in the reservoir rises. If you don't open the reservoir every once in a while (I check every service) and make sure the fluid level is not above the MAX indicator you can run into the situation where the clutch never fully disengages which leads to slipping.
That's a good point, Marc. I've wondered before why there isn't a service point in the manual about checking the clutch fluid in the reservoir. I never stopped to think that it might get too high. I shall check mine at next service.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks

Thanks Guys... the clutch fluid has been checked and replaced... it’s starting to look like a clutch replacement.... $ouch!
 

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Thanks Guys... the clutch fluid has been checked and replaced... it’s starting to look like a clutch replacement.... $ouch!
Are you doing the job yourself? The book calls for about 20 hrs and the stealership. In order to do any big work on these bikes I haven’t found a way to get around using a some type of gantry crane.

Do yourself a favor and change the clutch master cylinder while your at it $169 spent at the Beemer Boneyard is money well spent.

Be sure and replace the six bolts that attach the clutch assembly to the pressure plate, screw them down evenly and torque them down to 12 nm
 
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