R1200GS Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2015 GS, 60,000 km Just finished changing the rear pads for EBC double sintered and noticed one OEM pad has stainless hardware clipped to the back. Is this req'd with the aftermarket pads ?
Also had my 1st look at the final drive splines, dry, a bit rusted but not seized. should have looked long ago but a bit of moly grease has things sliding nicely.
Bruce
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
S/S hardware + fibre shim

Its back together with the S/S hardware and a 2mm thick fibre spacer that was lurking between the hardware and the original backing plate. Clips nicely onto the EBC backing plate, lots of room for everything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
2015 GS, 60,000 km Just finished changing the rear pads for EBC double sintered and noticed one OEM pad has stainless hardware clipped to the back. Is this req'd with the aftermarket pads ?
Also had my 1st look at the final drive splines, dry, a bit rusted but not seized. should have looked long ago but a bit of moly grease has things sliding nicely.
Bruce
Splines ok? I have 10K on a 17 GSA and will have to take a peek sometime over the winter.
Just so I know ya know?
How was the rubber boot? Did you have to replace it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
splines

I should have taken some pictures at the time but lowering the final drive was not very difficult, I used a floor jack to support it and lower slowly while prying the boot from the swing arm. On re-assembly pay attention to the underside of the boot to ensure its seated properly.
Bruce
 

·
Survivor
Joined
·
682 Posts
Splines ok? I have 10K on a 17 GSA and will have to take a peek sometime over the winter.
Just so I know ya know?
How was the rubber boot? Did you have to replace it?
The rubber boot should last you a very long time. I would say 6-8 years or 100K miles. Of course your riding conditions and care will influence your experience. A bit of 303 UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber every now and then will extend it's life.

I'm doing a 36,000 mile service on my 17 GSA at the moment. This is how my rear U-joint and splines looked:



This is the third time I've serviced the FD splines.

It is a good idea to pull the driveshaft early on in the life of your bike and grease the output splines and forward U-joint. It is a bit fiddly to get to the front and release the clip and even more so putting it back together, but if you do some research and know what to do, then it is not a big task. This is not something you need to do very often unless you do water crossings or ride on salted roads. The lube up front is to protect against corrrosion more than it is to prevent wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Yes anti-seize while better than nothing will heat and fling.

I've been working on a major 40,0000 mile service on my 07 R1200GS. I've moved to 5,000 mile intervals because of having mutiple bikes its just easier to look at any odometer and see when maintenance is due. Also with modern oils/fluids 5,000 miles ain't nothing.

As part of that I wanted to check the upper U-joint, drive line and splines at the transmission output shaft so that meant pulling the swingarm which also meant also time to maintenance/replace the swing arm pivot bearings.

Last Saturday @ 40,405 miles I took everything apart cleaned and inspected to find the drive line, both u-joints and all splines were is excellent condition. A slather of some Honda Moly Paste 60 and reassembled. For he record the stock swing arm pivot bearings were somewhat dry and one was gritty. I had extra's on hand because even if the stockers seemed in good shape while I was this far they were getting replaced with freshly packed new bearings and races.

Glad to find parts were in good condition and glad that done.
 

·
'14 R1200 GS Adv "Freya"
Joined
·
129 Posts
This was my 14's shaft after 17,500 miles, I bought it with 12,000 on it and decided I needed to baseline the maintenance everything.






It took a lot of persuasion to get the front u-joint to come off of the transmission output shaft


All cleaned up and ready to reinstall.

The secret is to use a lot of White Lithium Grease on the Boots to seal them
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
And I was told by my local BMW shop the shaft is sealed for life and never needs to be lubricated. Both of them are wrong.
The drive shaft U-joints are sealed and cannot be maintenanced IE greased. The splines are not sealed and should have the appropriate spline lube be applied to thwart corrosion and cushion the teeth.

Dry splines wear quickly. They rust and the rust gets ground off easily making the teeth smaller and smaller (wear) until the point where they will fail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Just reinstalled my 17 GSA drive shaft yesterday. Too say I had a difficult time getting it back on the engine output stub is an understatement. ha!
With 12.500 miles both ends were dry with just a few very small spots of rust.
I put a couple wraps of electrical tape to keep the fr u joint from drooping to much. But working alone I couldn't raise the front of the shaft by rotating my wrist and hold it there long enough to get the fr lined up. Yea a big old weakling! I have several pry bars and slid one of them into the swing arm in an effort to lift up the front of the shaft. I figured id somehow finally hit that sweet spot and it would pop on. Nope. Didn't really seem to lift it up high enough. :crying:

Finally after two hours it hit me...Leverage? I have a few small wooden blocks living in my tool box and what I did was put them under the shaft about 3-4 inches in front of the rear u joint. Then just press down on the back raising the front and it popped right on!! Took less than a minute. :surprise: What just happened here!?!

So in 10K I will recheck my final drive splines. And if some time down the road they seem to be "drying out" my next technique for doing the front will be to slide the fr splines back to just where the grove for the C clip lives then stop. Lube what I can see slowly rotating the shaft and then slide it back and forward a few time and adding more moly paste as needed. Unless I think there is a problem with the u joints I see no reason to remove the shaft completely for lube.

Another tip is I used dental floss to compress the gater and keep it compressed while wrestling with the shaft. The floss is easily reached from the battery side with a long needle nose pliers and a quick yank breaks the thread and its easily removed.

Oh one other thing when installing the gator lower the swing arm all the way down, thereby opening the top of it makes getting the gater in pretty easy.

Im glad I got this job out of the way early in my bikes life.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
And I was told by my local BMW shop the shaft is sealed for life and never needs to be lubricated. Both of them are wrong.
Actually they are. The ujoints are sealed for life. That big exterior boot in not waterproof and is not considered the " driveline ". So in fact they are lubricated for life but that boot needs to be broke open and drain out the water.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top