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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning all. Thank you for your help with my sticky throttle issue when my heated grips are on. Thanks to your suggestions and knowledge I was able to remedy the issue. Now… on to problem # 2. Still the same bike - 07’ GS1200 (28k miles). When I bought the bike from a dealer in June I was told it had never been ridden off road. This is what was said by the previous owner and from the looks of the bike I believe it. So, on my ride on a chunky dirt road with a full tank of gas my fuel gauge spontaneously dropped to zero and it began flashing that I was low or out of fuel. I’m not sure which. I then got the yellow triangle with the exclamation point lit up on the upper part of the display. Since then it has remained the same and I just track my mileage with the trip and fuel up when needed. Two other things happened at this time as well. I notice now that there is a gas smell coming from the tank area all of the time. Also, just before this happened I realized I had not completely secured and closed the gas gap completely at my last fill up. From the research I’ve done it seems like the classic fuel strip issue but I thought I would throw it out to the group for advice. Thanks very much in advance!
 

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I have had fuel smell from not fully latching the gas cap too. I would also check on top of the fuel pump to make sure there is no leaks.

I would guess the fuel level is a seperate issue, and probably a bad strip.
 

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Sounds like another common fuel strip failure too me. You can see if the dealership will replace it as good faith since you recently bought the bike. Some BMW shops will go above and beyond for customers others not so much. But you don't get what you don't ask for. Honestly even with a working fuel strip you are better off tracking your fuel mileage with the trip meters as the fuel gauge even when working isn't highly accurate.

If you want to replace the fuel strip it is not a terribly difficult task and right now Max BMW has a 20% off coupon code for all regular priced items and free shipping over $99. EARLYBF (all caps).

There are other band-aids to make the yellow warning light go out and fool the fuel gauge to thinking it full so no light or LCD's blink but you still rely on the trip meter for accuracy.

Cheers,

P-14
 

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I've seen posts on ADVRider about converting fuel strip equipped bikes to a more traditional float equipped bike. I know nothing about the details of how to do it or the cost.

Another thing to consider is that when a BMW dealer installs a BMW part on a bike the work and part are normally warranted for two years. If a customer installs the part there is no warranty, Fuel strips have failed in great numbers and some people have replaced them several times. Because they failed so often, BMW extended the warranty on the fuel strips for ten years; long since expired on your bike.
 

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The strip to float conversion is probably the best route of you are going to keep the bike. There used to be a plug-n-play method that all tolled cost about $500 for the float and adapter. The adapters are NLA so you have to modify the wiring in one of the plugs. Too bad someone doesn't make a male/female jumper plug with he connections already switched. But the last of the fuel stripped bikes are now almost a decade old so simply by attrition they will fade away. 5 or 10 years ago would have made sense to develop a plug but the fuel strip warranty was still in effect so there was no right answer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you everyone. I really appreciate the thoughts. I really don’t mind using my trip to track mileage. Does anyone know how I can turn of the flashing and the yellow death triangle? Thanks again!
 

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Because they failed so often, BMW extended the warranty on the fuel strips for ten years; long since expired on your bike.
Some dealerships are better than others. I bought my '09 GSA from Cycle Specialties in Modesto, in May of '20 and the fuel strip went out within three days of purchase. They replaced it for free. Good customer service on their part.
 

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Some dealerships are better than others. I bought my '09 GSA from Cycle Specialties in Modesto, in May of '20 and the fuel strip went out within three days of purchase. They replaced it for free. Good customer service on their part.
Within 3 days of ownership I'd hope they replaced it. I just bought a new fuel strip for 20% off retail for $189.00. It took about 45 minutes and most of that is removing/reinstall body panels. The actual fuel strip takes only minutes to install.

So even at 20% off retail they are still making money (I'd bet dealers costs is south of $100). So while your dealer did step up the maybe $150 in dead cost to keep a customer smiling was a good investment on their part. Now you'll be back vs if they'd have declined to fix you have had a soured on them. Dealers ain't dumb and dealers don't give anything away.
 

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Within 3 days of ownership I'd hope they replaced it. I just bought a new fuel strip for 20% off retail for $189.00. It took about 45 minutes and most of that is removing/reinstall body panels. The actual fuel strip takes only minutes to install.

So even at 20% off retail they are still making money (I'd bet dealers costs is south of $100). So while your dealer did step up the maybe $150 in dead cost to keep a customer smiling was a good investment on their part. Now you'll be back vs if they'd have declined to fix you have had a soured on them. Dealers ain't dumb and dealers don't give anything away.
I'm lucky as I have Sierra BMW at 50 miles away, but they seem to be more interested in selling bicycles than motorcycles; and a lot of times, getting in for service is a nightmare. I'm sure if anyone from BMW franchise operations were to visit, they'd yank the franchise.

A&S is two hours ride and Cycle Specialties is three hours. Both are better drives than going to Reno.
 

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Yesterday I received the Float Control Module 2 from Proebeemer.nl along with the correct float to go into my GS.
As Mike says it's a quick job to install the float and then plug the module on to the outside of the fuel pump.
However that module also requires power which needs to be sent via a red and black wire, so you have to find somewhere below the ignition switch that powers accessories and tap into that.
I found a bundle of wire held with some cable ties which has a small fuse in the middle. When taken out of the ties this makes a big loop that hangs down as far as the front axle. Does anyone know if I could cut and tap into this for the power required? Apparently we only need about 5ma so it won't overload anything.
The other question is will I need to callibrate the system before connecting the new stuff?
 

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OK since none of you namby's answered I found my own answers.
First I checked the wires in question to find there is full battery power to it when the ignition is on but none when it's off.
Good that's what I wanted. So I hooked it up and gave it a try but the same fault still shows.
Thus it's obvious I have to clear that fault and reconnect. OK so now I'll have to buy the motoscan tool.
Once I've done that the new float and controller should work as promised. Just hope I haven't given it a problem from not clearing the fault first but hopefully it will be ok.
But I just don't understand you Beemer people. Do none of you work on your bikes ? Or do the ones who do not want to talk to me? Really I find this forum quite odd and not really friendly. Is that just the way it is in Beemerland?
 

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Disconnect the battery for a few minutes. If the code/fault no longer exists it will clear and be stored in the ECU until you clear it with a GS911 or Motoscan tool.

Be forewarned that the fuel float/strip may not read right away. Sometimes it takes a couple cycles of the ignition. In my case it took 4 cycles on/off then a short ride of about 300 yards until the yellow triangle went out and the fuel LED on the gauge cluster populated.
 

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Well so far I have to report that running it doesn't make the fault go away even if it does have the good float and float control. Maybe different years behave differently but I think I'm up for a fault clearance and so I may as well get the motoscan tool as I think it will be cheaper than one trip to the dentist/dealer. I'll give 'em a call to evaluate the situation. Full function motoscan costs about $200 total, software included. Annoying little BMW.
 

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I think the fault is still present. Most who have done the float conversion switched pins around in the main wiring harness plug to get the computer to recognize the float.

if the fault is still active/present clearing it willdo Nothing. It will come right back.

if it was easy and straight forward a lot more folks would have converted to a float when their strip failed.
 

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OK I'll have to revisit that other thread on GSerUK and eat humble pie. I've asked Bert what he thinks too. Maybe he knows. It really should be laid out before a product is sold so I'm hoping he can give me the right answer.
Why does it have to be this hard? I can see why some have given up and adopted the trip meter but now I've invested I want it right so maybe swapping pins in the ecu is in my future.
Thanks Perazzi.
 

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I in good conscience cannot open up a perfectly good wiring loom and modify it. Its not wrong to do so its just a mental block I have. It drives me crazy to see or know the factory wiring has been modified or I would have done the float conversion in lieu of just buying another fuel strip that will fail.

The best thing to do is probably have a dealership (If in the USA) install a new fuel strip. If the dealer installs it you get a two year warranty.

Unfortunately since the fuel stripped bikes are antiquated and being phased out I doubt anyone would invest in the R&D of another plug-n-play hack that was relatively cost effective.
 

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I have success! I asked Bert at Proebeemer and he said I definitely should not modify the wiring pins.
He said the calibration is required but I might also want to try the resistor idea though that was entirely up to me.
So I got those resistors this morning and managed to cause the gauge to read full with them.
Turned the bike off, reconnected the Fuel Control module, it still read full and it does have a full tank, but a minute later it went back to nothing. So I refitted the resistors. All this time the orange alert triangle is illuminated.
Then I went for a short ride, stopped, swapped the module for the resistors and got the same result.
So I went up to the top of the hill and back, about 5k's, decided it will need calibrating, turned into my drive and as I pulled up the gauge began showing full which it is. I turned it off and back on and it's reading full so it's still working. However the alert sign is still lit up so I'm thinking there are fault codes that need clearing anyway. There may be one from swapping out the fuel pump as well.
I'll take it to the dealer soon as it needs a few recalls including the rear hub replacement and something about the fuel pump too.
Interestingly when I asked the dealer about the rear hub , and was it because gorillas may have overtightened things in the factory, he said, no, it's because the metal they used in that batch was sub standard and would fail with hairline cracks eventually anyway. So there's another myth out the window.
Thanks Perazzi , looks like this float and control module is a fix and cheaper than a fuel strip if you can even get one, but of course we won't know for sure until it has proved to work through the range of fuel in the tank and continues to work.
Also I still don't know if the resistor trick had anything to do with it or whether it just needed the extra time to finally come good.
 
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