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Discussion Starter #1
Hello and thank you for bearing with such a touchy & subjective subject which is already beaten like a very dead horse (at least where the R1200GS is concerned).

I recently sold my R1200GSA and got an R1250GSA. The power, handling, mannerisms of the 1250 over the 1200 is incredible. I had a couple friends with the 1250 and had only ridden their bikes briefly but was certain that they felt like a better bike but-- holy hell-- after purchasing the R1250 and riding for 10 minutes, I realized I actually liked the GSA's and no longer just wanted one to ride with the guys who had them. I used to keep other bikes in the stable for "fun" and just used the GSA for trips with the group. This new bike is head and shoulders better than the old R1200.

That said, the full Remus exhaust system on my R1200 added an incredible amount of additional power to that bike (this was NOT just me imagining it or telling myself it was better to justify the cost). It was far louder and had a definite drone that was intolerable at times but the added power made it worth it to me.

Now, having purchased an R1250GSA, can anyone give me a GOOD, HONEST, VALID opinion on whether the full exhaust (Akra, Remus, Etc) TRULY adds enough power to justify the price? Something tells me the ShiftCam makes the R1250 already have added performance that does most of what the exhaust system did for the R1200.
I really want to know if anyone has a full system on an R1250 and that it adds a noticeable difference.
[I understand that answers will always be subjective to some degree but all I've seen so far are arguments about whether you need an ECU tune to balance out the fuel map. No one has really addressed whether there is the same power increase as the old 1200].

Thanks in advance (let the craziness and opinionated rants begin). 0:)

-J
 

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I'll be able to let you know something soon. I have a R1250GS HP with the Remus 8 slip-on and just purchased the Remus stainless steel catless/flapperless header which is currently being cermet (ceramic) coated. Should have the header back and everything reassembled by next weekend.

My only other motor mods are a foam Aussie Unifilter, HealTech Exhaust Servo Eliminator (www.healtech-electronics.com/products/ese), and a Brentuning ECU re-flash for 93 octane based on these changes.

I find the motor in its stock configuration perfectly satisfactory for the bike's intended purposes but, then again, I'll never say, "No" to a bit more torque and HP.

What I don't find satisfactory, particularly as our temps start reaching into the 100's, is how much heat this thing radiates! From past experience I know a ceramic coated and catless header will reduce that dramatically. Also, between the header and the 3-pound Antigravity ATX12-HD that replaced the OEM battery, I'm hoping to shed about 25 to 30 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Damn. I think we think alike. That's exactly how I feel. This new bike is leaps and bounds above the 1200. I can't find another Remus (had one on the 1200) so I ordered an Akra and got it yesterday. Having it ceramic [painted] as powder coat doesn't last at temps and should have it installed by next week. Still gonna use my Remus 8 can with it (hopefully it fits). I don't know how to "send my ECU to Brentune" but I keep hearing that I need to. lol Do you send the ECU in? Sounds like a pain.
Otherwise, I've got Denali D7's, ROX risers, and a few other little things done. I'm excited for the extra power but a little worried about the drone. My 1200 was pretty drone-y.

J
 

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Yeah, after an exhaustive search of the US, UK and EU, I think I might have found and bought the last Remus R1250GS header in the world from an awesome powersports company just outside of Vancouver. I won't mention their name for fear of getting them in trouble but for the $699 purchase price they snuck it across the US/Canadian border that night to ship it "domestically" via FedEx 2-day air. This was in late March, at the height of the Bat Flu hysteria, and after the border was closed to non-essential travel.

I bought the BrenTuning handheld diagnostic ($715.50 on sale) to avoid having to send in my ECU. The mail in option is also problematic because the tune will be visible to the tech when you take the bike in for service and if they update the software the tune will get overwritten - forcing you to remove ECU and send it back to Bren to be re-flashed. The handheld unit saves an image of the stock tune so you can re-flash the ECU back to OEM specs before taking it into service.

Once you get the bike back you simply upload the Bren tune back into your ECU. Bren's price for the handheld unit also includes two tunes which, admittedly, would be more useful for someone wanting to run race fuel in their 1000 RR on track days. I went the other direction and asked them generate a second tune for 87 octane gas in case I ever decide to mosey on down to Chile...

In the age of smartphones and iPads the handheld's interface is a bit archaic but since its only job is to perform simple reads and writes its small monochrome, dot matrix display is more than adequate.

Given how lean manufactures have to tune their bikes nowadays to boost their MPG numbers and appease various regulatory agencies around the world I was concerned throwing a full exhaust into the mix would only exacerbate that problem.

Considering what BMW would charge for a motor rebuild, I view the Bren tune as relatively cheap insurance and good long term investment in the bike's overall health and reliability.

Regrettably, I bought a set of Denali D4's a couple weeks before their announcement of the D7's. They look like real flamethrowers. Would love to have a pair.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Man, I truly appreciate your responses. That last response was loaded with the exact info I've been wondering. I didn't know exactly how the "Brentune" worked and whether you could get a module to flash it yourself. Thanks a ton for actually sharing all of that.

To be honest about the D7's.. after I purchased them, I ordered a set of D4's (which I had on my 1200) from Revzilla just to have on-hand during the wiring install because I heard in forums that the D7's were simply "too bright" to be used for anything but when your brights were on and no traffic in front of you. I decided to bite the bullet and go with the D7's anyway (out of pride since my buddies all have D4's). 0:) My review after having them for a few weeks, I've got them at 40% brightness and they seem "fine". They're a LITTLE bright but not enough that it matters. 1 out of 20 cars will bright me. And you can just angle them down ever so slightly and they aren't shining up enough to affect anyone. I like the look just because they're different. But I really like the square / modular look of the D4's more and the beam is more uniform and useful in real-world riding. So I'd be happy you've got the D4's. These 7's look like Clearwaters and I've always thought they looked more 2009. :)
 

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I think the final conclusion how all these work would be if you dyno the bike before and after the install of headers, exhaust, tune etc.
Many times effect of more power is placebo......but that being said...if you feel a difference and are happy with it...thats money well spent.
And many times these add ons do fix the problem of stalling, surging at lower rpm.
Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did any of you have a 1200 with a full system on it? It was a dramatic difference. No placebo there- that’s for sure! But that bike suffered from power dead spot just before the mid-range and then the mid was still lacking in torque like it couldn’t breathe.
I put that full Remus system on and it was almost unbearably drone-y but was well worth it.
The young fellow who bought that bike from me bought it with it on but told me he’d sell it back to me for cheap because he didn’t like the noise. But when he took the system off and put the stock pipe back on, he was really disheartened. When he brought the pipe to me, he told me he never wouldn’t taken it off had he known how much power it lost. #Noticeable
I’m just worried the 1250 won’t benefit as much because the shift cam is already created such a great motor. May not be worth the noise this time..
 

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Did any of you have a 1200 with a full system on it? It was a dramatic difference. No placebo there- that’s for sure! But that bike suffered from power dead spot just before the mid-range and then the mid was still lacking in torque like it couldn’t breathe.
I put that full Remus system on and it was almost unbearably drone-y but was well worth it.
The young fellow who bought that bike from me bought it with it on but told me he’d sell it back to me for cheap because he didn’t like the noise. But when he took the system off and put the stock pipe back on, he was really disheartened. When he brought the pipe to me, he told me he never wouldn’t taken it off had he known how much power it lost. #Noticeable
I’m just worried the 1250 won’t benefit as much because the shift cam is already created such a great motor. May not be worth the noise this time..
Yes sasquatch had the full system, but the noise was deafening....my ears ring (Past riding)
Now just run the remus with the sound insert.....it sucks getting old and bike is wimpy.
Though the bike is decat.
Like I said yes there is difference.....but how much is in the real world (Power figures) I dont know cos no one ever gets it dynoed before and after.
Riding pleasure is increased...yes that for sure
 

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I think the final conclusion how all these work would be if you dyno the bike before and after the install of headers, exhaust, tune etc.
Totally agree!

The dyno tech at the KTM dealer I was going to use is out sick with COVID and I'd prefer to not ride all the way to Dallas to the Ducati dealer who's tuned a couple bikes for me just for a simple dyno run.

Fortunately, I found an independent shop only five miles from my office with a Dynojet 250i who's been at the same location for 15+ years. Spoke to the owner yesterday, surprised and happy to discover he has a lot of experience with Bren tunes on BMW motorcycles. He speculated that Bren's BMW tunes are "probably close to perfect" for those in the Northeast (Bren's in MA) but typically need some slight adjustments to be optimized for our climate (TX).

After he determines where my bike's at with full Remus and Bren 93 octane tune installed he'll provide a list of the recommended corrections - which I'll send to Bren who'll create new maps and email them to me to for uploading into my ECU. He said Bren's first revised tunes are typically spot on over 80% of the time, and that their success rate on the second attempt is about 99%.

I picked up my cermet coated headers Wednesday and reinstalled the OEM header and silencer last night. I hope to get baseline (stock) dyno run today during lunch, install header over the weekend, and get my first dyno run with mods and Bren tune early next week.

Will update as things progress...

Remus-01.jpg Remus-02.jpg
 

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My 05R1200GS came with a Remus carbon fiber muffler and the stock muffler. Switching back and forth there was no discernable difference in power just noise. To further the experiment I bought a set of stock headers and de-cat'ed it. Again no different the bike felt the same with either muffler or the header with or without the catalytic converted intact.

The two difference the aftermarket muffler were:

1. Louder than stock
2. Lighter than stock.

I ended up selling the aftermarket muffler. Boxers aren't Italian music boxes like a Ducati or Moto Guzzi with free'er flowing exhaust.
 

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Okay, baseline dyno run performed. There were a couple of bikes ahead of mine and a few behind so we recorder HP only. 114.7 at rear wheel. A/F Ratio 15.0:1 and 15.2:1 on run 1 & 2 respectively. Lean but not too bad or far off. Weather less than optimal for peak power: 91F/32C; 54% Humidity. Will get HP & Torque figures on next dyno run after exhaust installed and Bren map loaded.

This bike definately does not like being Dynoed!

They weren't banging off the rev limiter but when it came off the machine the TFT was lit up like an Xmas tree with warning messages and the bike would not turn completely off. I could kill motor but not turn off the bike by pressing the keyless ignition button thingy - TFT, headlight, etc remained on.

I was able to clear all warnings except ABS. Upon returning to office I disconnected battery briefly and then reconnected it. The bike will now turn off correctly but the ABS is still not functioning - per TFT warnings and actual testing.

The Dyno operator said that the rear wheel spinning faster the stationary front often confuses ABS systems and that they generally sort themselves out after a some miles. Hope he's right as ride back to the office was less than 10 miles and that certainly did not do the trick. I've disconnected battery again, will leave it sitting overnight, and check on things tomorrow or Sunday.

Running late to an appointment. Will scan and post Dyno graph later but for now a pic will have to suffice...
 

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Okay, baseline dyno run performed. There were a couple of bikes ahead of mine and a few behind so we recorder HP only. 114.7 at rear wheel. A/F Ratio 15.0:1 and 15.2:1 on run 1 & 2 respectively. Lean but not too bad or far off. Weather less than optimal for peak power: 91F/32C; 54% Humidity. Will get HP & Torque figures on next dyno run after exhaust installed and Bren map loaded.

This bike definately does not like being Dynoed!

They weren't banging off the rev limiter but when it came off the machine the TFT was lit up like an Xmas tree with warning messages and the bike would not turn completely off. I could kill motor but not turn off the bike by pressing the keyless ignition button thingy - TFT, headlight, etc remained on.

I was able to clear all warnings except ABS. Upon returning to office I disconnected battery briefly and then reconnected it. The bike will now turn off correctly but the ABS is still not functioning - per TFT warnings and actual testing.

The Dyno operator said that the rear wheel spinning faster the stationary front often confuses ABS systems and that they generally sort themselves out after a some miles. Hope he's right as ride back to the office was less than 10 miles and that certainly did not do the trick. I've disconnected battery again, will leave it sitting overnight, and check on things tomorrow or Sunday.

Running late to an appointment. Will scan and post Dyno graph later but for now a pic will have to suffice...
Finally some gold standard work!
Also isnt the A/F ratio 14.7:1 on the stock bike? This figure is from beemer boneyard and its considered lean so wouldnt that make your figures of 15.0:1 even leaner?
 

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Okay, baseline dyno run performed. There were a couple of bikes ahead of mine and a few behind so we recorder HP only. 114.7 at rear wheel. A/F Ratio 15.0:1 and 15.2:1 on run 1 & 2 respectively. Lean but not too bad or far off. Weather less than optimal for peak power: 91F/32C; 54% Humidity. Will get HP & Torque figures on next dyno run after exhaust installed and Bren map loaded.

This bike definately does not like being Dynoed!

They weren't banging off the rev limiter but when it came off the machine the TFT was lit up like an Xmas tree with warning messages and the bike would not turn completely off. I could kill motor but not turn off the bike by pressing the keyless ignition button thingy - TFT, headlight, etc remained on.

I was able to clear all warnings except ABS. Upon returning to office I disconnected battery briefly and then reconnected it. The bike will now turn off correctly but the ABS is still not functioning - per TFT warnings and actual testing.

The Dyno operator said that the rear wheel spinning faster the stationary front often confuses ABS systems and that they generally sort themselves out after a some miles. Hope he's right as ride back to the office was less than 10 miles and that certainly did not do the trick. I've disconnected battery again, will leave it sitting overnight, and check on things tomorrow or Sunday.

Running late to an appointment. Will scan and post Dyno graph later but for now a pic will have to suffice...
And yes hes right about the ABS usually 50-100 miles to reset them! They learn......
 

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Engines are being designed to run very lean these days so maybe 15:1 isn't too bad (allowing for dyno margin of error)
Yes 14.7:1 is the theoritcal ideal ratio but most tuners would go down to 13.5:1 for a street bike if power was the only consideration.
Adjusting the fueling on a bike with various power modes is beyond my experience so I will be interested how this project works out.
 
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