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I've been a long time lurker on the forum..

Yesterday while filtering in traffic on my 14 r1200gsw I noticed that the bike was getting very sluggish.. the rear brake had come on or rather hadn't come off..

I get the bike onto the hard shoulder and the back brake was on. There was no movement in the brake pedal - it wasn't caught on anything or bent or jammed.

It just felt as though there was a lot of pressure in the system.

The front brake was fine. After about 15 mins it seem to depressurize itself and has been perfect since. Bike has only 5k miles and is due it's first service.

Anyone encounder it
 

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Me too!

I've been a long time lurker on the forum..

Yesterday while filtering in traffic on my 14 r1200gsw I noticed that the bike was getting very sluggish.. the rear brake had come on or rather hadn't come off..

I get the bike onto the hard shoulder and the back brake was on. There was no movement in the brake pedal - it wasn't caught on anything or bent or jammed.

It just felt as though there was a lot of pressure in the system.

The front brake was fine. After about 15 mins it seem to depressurize itself and has been perfect since. Bike has only 5k miles and is due it's first service.

Anyone encounder it
I made a minor adjustment to the rear brake lever travel and rear brake locked up after several hundred miles with no problem. Backed up lever to where it was an no problem since, but rotor looks a little scored.
 

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Me four. The rear brake adjustment is VERY sensitive due to its design. I was getting almost no rear brake action so I adjusted the link about 5 turns to get it where it felt like I had about 1 inch to engagement. BIG MISTAKE!!! It locked up on hot days and I had to back it off 4 turns! I had to remove the pads and sand them as well as the rotor, which had turned blue.

Now I get engagement at about 2 inches, further than I like, but still usable downhill in the dirt.

Same as other posters, it was fine for about two weeks of cooler weather, then Blam! lock-up.:frown2:
 

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Rear Brake

And no mention in user manual to leave the rear brake adjustment alone! I very rarely use the rear brake anyway, but thought I'd reduce the travel a bit and got burnt too! Backed the travel of and all good except a toasty rotor and needed new brake pads.
 

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I have had the same problem with my 2014. The calipper has been really hot and the roter/disc too:frown2:
I will talk to my bmw dealer about it on next service (30000km)
 

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lyd
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The front sliding pin inside the rubber boot on the rear brake caliper is supposed be bathing in grease. When I was changing my brake pads, I noticed that the pin is rusted and almost frozen, with no grease, not allowing the caliper to freely travel. My bike was serviced by BMW dealer 3000 miles ago and clearly they did not grease this pin.
 

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The rear pin, too.

When I flush my rear brakes (about every 2 years) I clean the pistons, retract them into the caliper, and verify that the two halves freely slide on the carrier guide pins. If not perfect I'll remove the carrier and the boots so I can clean the pins and remove the old lube from the boot.

On my '05 I had to do that before the first flush as there was very little lubrication from the factory. My '13 has been fine to date. FWIW I don't think BMW will look at your brakes other than to notice if you need new pads unless you specifically ask. They may ask you if you want the brakes flushed.
 
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