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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

In about 2 weeks I'll have a new to me 2015 GSA in my garage. On my previous bike I had install Warm and safe DUAL controller and DC coax plug. All the heated gear at maximum load is gonna be close to 10 amps of 120 watts (2 vest and a pair of glove).

I'm looking for idea on where to mount (hide) the controller assembly and where to mount the tow controller
and other fine idea on how (like electronic fuse or the old fashion way). Direct plug on the battery and it is gonna be the only accessory mounted since the bike has already hot grip and GPS.

Thank
 

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Riding a 2009 R1200gs
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162 Posts
Bikes with CanBus controllers are notoriously finicky about adding circuits. Your best bet is to wire directly to the battery (fused, of course), the bike electronics don't need to know.

I have a GS, not a GSA, so your milleage may vary but this is what I have done

On the right side, I replaced the accessory socket by a voltmeter (will tell me if my accessories draw too much current)
27155


On the left side, there is plenty of space under to install a controler
27156
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for sharing. Is there much room under the seat? On my actual bike I store a small tool pouch, some co2 canister ant the plug and go tool. I did find some place for the controller.
 

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Riding a 2009 R1200gs
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Unfortunately, I won't be able to answer, I have a 2009 (air/oil cooled) and the new liquid cooled are very different under the seat.
 

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'14 R1200 GS Adv "Freya"
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Hi all

In about 2 weeks I'll have a new to me 2015 GSA in my garage. On my previous bike I had install Warm and safe DUAL controller and DC coax plug. All the heated gear at maximum load is gonna be close to 10 amps of 120 watts (2 vest and a pair of glove).

I'm looking for idea on where to mount (hide) the controller assembly and where to mount the tow controller
and other fine idea on how (like electronic fuse or the old fashion way). Direct plug on the battery and it is gonna be the only accessory mounted since the bike has already hot grip and GPS.

Thank
Mine on a '14 GSA.

I went direct to the Battery, the Coax snakes out between the seat and the tank, I keep my Dual Controller receiver in the rear pocket of my tank bag and Velcro the Transmitter onto the top of the clutch master cylinder when I run the heated gear. I fused my circuit at 15 amps and have had no problem running Jacket/gloves/pants.

I use the same coax connection to connect my battery tender with an SAE to Coax adapter.
 

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HexEZcan fits under the seat and will control your loads, plus you can adjust jacket heat via Wunderbar.
 

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Riding a 2009 R1200gs
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Hi Hodasaurus, to understand the HexEZcan, you need to know the basic of the canBus.

I'll take the flashers as an exemple; On older bikes, the flasher circuit was like this: Wire from the battery to a fuse to the switch on the handlebar to the flasher and back to the ground.

On modern BMW's most of the electronics are controlled by a canBUS system where devices like the flasher are connected directly to the ZFU (electronic control unit) and the controllers are also sending signals to the ZFU. No direct wire. On your GS, when you press the flasher button, you are sending a signal to the ZFU... please. can you flash on the left or the right.

To keep the display updated with the speed, RPM, high or low beam, flashers, etc... Instead of using one wire for each, only 4 wires are used (+12v, gnd and a twisted pair of signal wire) All the informations from the ZFU is passed on theses wires in a digital form.

There is a lot more to say about CanBus but let's keep it simple.

HexEZcan is a small device made by Hex (HEX ezCAN – All things ezCAN) that can read theses CanBus messages and power differents outputs. It has only 4 wires to connect to the bike (battery +, battery -, CanHi and CanLow) and have several outputs. Once installed, it has a USB port, you connect it to a computer and program each output as you like (On when the motor is on, always on, On with the highbeam, etc).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Hodasaurus, to understand the HexEZcan, you need to know the basic of the canBus.

I'll take the flashers as an exemple; On older bikes, the flasher circuit was like this: Wire from the battery to a fuse to the switch on the handlebar to the flasher and back to the ground.

On modern BMW's most of the electronics are controlled by a canBUS system where devices like the flasher are connected directly to the ZFU (electronic control unit) and the controllers are also sending signals to the ZFU. No direct wire. On your GS, when you press the flasher button, you are sending a signal to the ZFU... please. can you flash on the left or the right.

To keep the display updated with the speed, RPM, high or low beam, flashers, etc... Instead of using one wire for each, only 4 wires are used (+12v, gnd and a twisted pair of signal wire) All the informations from the ZFU is passed on theses wires in a digital form.

There is a lot more to say about CanBus but let's keep it simple.

HexEZcan is a small device made by Hex (HEX ezCAN – All things ezCAN) that can read theses CanBus messages and power differents outputs. It has only 4 wires to connect to the bike (battery +, battery -, CanHi and CanLow) and have several outputs. Once installed, it has a USB port, you connect it to a computer and program each output as you like (On when the motor is on, always on, On with the highbeam, etc).
Thanks for the crash course. Very appreciate and felling more educated on my new to me bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi again

Finally receive yesterday the Warn and safe dual heat trolley. I know that I could have it install with and EZ Can but did not throw more in that project since I have to pay more for the difference in US $.

Since the battery charger plug is fused with 15 amp and directly wired to the battery I slice that circuit and connected the heat trolley. I also use that plug for occasionally plug a CB when I escort bikes in races. It is good with 15 amps circuit. Since I'll be the only one with a heated vest when escorting bike race and will most rarely use the CB with the heated gear, I assume it is ok. My vest only require 2 amps. My wife vest 3 amps an 2 more amps for the heated glove.

Running the wire was pretty strait forward. Building the aluminium plate for the plug and the control were more time consuming. It will be easily transferable on my next bike when the time comes.

Here a pictures of the final installation.

My wife will have to ask me to operate her part of the controller (warmer or colder).

27423

27424


27425

27426
 

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For what it’s worth, I ran one wire harness to the battery and just put a fusebox inside a project box. I’m only using one zone of heated gear so the other I’m using as dimmer for my lights.
27431
 

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I have a heated jacket liner by Hotwire. I just plug it into my Battery Tender plug................works great, no issues and SIMPLE. The pic shows the battery tender lead connected from the left side, I bought a short cable with SME (battery tender connection type) to round plug (heated liner connection type)
 

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