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I have an older one, but mine just taps out. Find a small tool(a finishing nail reversed could work) and see if the center piece will come through with light tapping from your hammer. Just know that you shouldn’t hit it hard enough to deform it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have an older one, but mine just taps out. Find a small tool(a finishing nail reversed could work) and see if the center piece will come through with light tapping from your hammer. Just know that you shouldn’t hit it hard enough to deform it.
I misspoke in my original post. I'm trying to remove the brake plunger, that long part that threads through the pin. It's held on by a 2mm allen screw. It appears to be "glued" in and I'm afraid to force it. I spoke to BMW today and they could not even find a parts diagram that looked like my lever. How is that possible?

I'm going to buy a lever off eBay and mess with that one, just in case I frack it up.
 

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... I spoke to BMW today and they could not even find a parts diagram that looked like my lever. How is that possible?...
Sometimes the line drawings are representational and don't always match identically the part you may be holding in your hand. Looks the same as my 2015 GSA. It may be that it's not meant to actually be replaced. I'd just replace with the NHA. If you still insist, heat may be your friend (or enemy) as it may be Loctite'd in, but torqueing the crap out of a grub screw that small has a high probability of stripping out as you mentioned.
 

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The plunger will most likely unscrew once the 2m allen set screw is loosened and some heat applied to soften up any thread compound that may have been applied.

Also be warned that the plunger setting is a bit of a process. A minor adjustment (screwing in/out) can have a big effect on the brake engagement. point. They make them a PITA to remove/adjust the plunger for a reason. They don't want every swing dick futzing with the brakes.
 
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Are you just trying to switch to different levers? Most are made to accept the entire component that the plunger is attached to. The brass circle beside YF-1 pushes out and then the part slides right out. Just don't lose the spring that's in there.
 
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