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'05 R 1200 Gs
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Is anyone using Amsoil and if so what weight. My bike is a 2005 with 30k on the odometer. I used Mobil 1 synthetic on my last change. Just got back from a 2000 mile trip and want to do the maintenance.
 

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The ride of Life
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I have used Amsoil in all my bikes for the last 13 years with no problem. For an ester based synthetic, it's a great deal. For the Gs I stick to 10000km intervals.
For me the coolest part about Amsoil is the retail store right near where I live. In reality I use the BMW Advantec in my BMW motorcycles - because the dealer does the servicing on my two boxers. Other bikes I have get Amsoil.
 

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Is anyone using Amsoil and if so what weight. My bike is a 2005 with 30k on the odometer. I used Mobil 1 synthetic on my last change. Just got back from a 2000 mile trip and want to do the maintenance.
Mobil 1 is probably about as good an oil as you need, one misconception is that Amsoil is PAO or Ester based and it's not although they certainly try and insinuate it is.
In my opinion if you are using a Group 3 oil which is what Mobil 1 and Amsoil is it probably doesn't much matter which one you go with, if you want the best synthetic oil look for an Ester based (Group 5) oil, Bel-Ray EXS and Revenol Ester are probably the best for the money and easiest to find on Amazon.
I would use SAE 15W-50 or 20W-50 in the summer in my hexhead.
 

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Hey all, first post here.

I'd just like to run an old question of mine by the forum. If the main reason for motorcycle-specific oil is because it is most of the time shared by engine/gearbox/wet-clutch then is there any particular reason why I should spend twice the amount on moto oil considering that my 2009 1200GS doesnt share engine oil with any other part of the bike? Since its a hot summer, I'm basically debating using a "moto" 20W50 vs a regular 20W50 (half the price).

Thank you!
 

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Concur!

Love reading Oil threads..always entertaining, and sometimes, even informative!

I just changed the oil out on my 15 R1200GSW. Had to phone around to find some. After describing what I needed to one "helpful" autoparts store person, he found what I was looking for.

He said they had Shell Rotella T4 for diesel engines! The person on the phone stated....it'll work...I put it in my bike!! :eek:

Umm...no thanks. I ordered what I needed from my local MC shop.
Ok old thread....Ive used rotella "diseal" oil in my goldwings since the early ninetys..
I wont go anywhere else for oil for my Beeee MA! The synthetic of course...Ha!
 

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'05 R 1200 Gs
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Since I have decided to go with the Shell Rotella T6 5w40, I did a search for who sells it.

Advance Auto $19.99 / gal on all weights Shell Rotella T6. Just picked up 2 .
 

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IMO BMW specified 5W40 oil to cover the gamut of ambient temperature ranges the bike may operate in throughout the world. It rationalises the oils dealers have to keep.
The lower (thinner) the oils W rating the better for cold start up protection. But, 5W is rated to circa -30 C and 10W to -25 C so if you live where the min temps are above even 0 C degrees, a 10W oil will be more than 'thin' enough.
And, the smaller the viscosity range ie 10W40 as against 5w40, the more sheer resistant it is because less viscosity modifiers (which shear down) are required. True full synthetics are less prone to shear or do not shear because they have less viscosity modifiers or none at all.
I have tried many different oils in BMW bikes over the past 4 years and 95,000 kms changing at 5000-7000 kms and i keep coming back to an Australian produced (blended) oil from Penrite 10w40 MC-4ST 10W-40 (100% PAO & ESTER) | Penrite Oil
This is a true full synthetic POA/Ester oil which Penrite claim is 'shear free'. Penrite also do a 5w40 POA/Ester oil but this is shear resistant and i assume this is because they have to add viscosity modifiers to extended the viscosity range.

I have used Penrite 5w40 before in my 1200 & 1250GS. In the 1250GS after 7000 kms the gear change still felt good, an indication the oil had not sheared noticeably.
I last used Shell Advance Ultra 4T 10w40 (nearly the Shell oil BMW specify for the 1250) which was OK at 7000 kms but just replaced with Penrite 10w40 POA/Ester, the first i have used this particular Penrite oil in the 1250GS with 30,000 kms.
Mindful that new oil is always better ??, I can not believe how quiet & smooth the engine is running this Penrite oil. The typical internal knocking & clatter of the boxer engine is reduced by about 75% once moving and is barely audible (with ear plugs). So much so, it has made me rethink about moving from this agricultural boxer engine to a Honda Africa Twin.

Use a full synthetic oil.
10W40 should suffice for the majority of the world. And imo is better than a 5w40.
Change oil frequently, before the manufacturer's recommendation, especially if ridden in traffic a lot.
If you can obtain the Penrite 10w40 POA/Ester i suggest you give it a try. The guys i ride with who have tried the 10w40 POA/Ester (to shut me up recommending it to them probably) have stayed using it and are as impressed as i am with its performance and longevity, especially for the reasonable cost.

Ps i am not affiliated with Penrite in any way, other than paying for and using their oils in all my vehicles.
 

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Hey all, first post here.

I'd just like to run an old question of mine by the forum. If the main reason for motorcycle-specific oil is because it is most of the time shared by engine/gearbox/wet-clutch then is there any particular reason why I should spend twice the amount on moto oil considering that my 2009 1200GS doesnt share engine oil with any other part of the bike? Since its a hot summer, I'm basically debating using a "moto" 20W50 vs a regular 20W50 (half the price).

Thank you!
Maybe a late reply, but this is my thought exactly. Actually, (and coorect me if I am mistaken) many auto oils have friction modifiers that are no-bueno for wet clutches. Thus the moto specific oils. with a dry clutch there may be a benefit to those modifiers. At any rate I have an '07 GSA with just over 92K on the clock. Runs as good as the day she was brought home. Just got back from 13 days in Baja and did not burn a drop! I have always used synthetic and try to find eith Mobil 1 on sale but my favorite is LiquidMoly 10W-60.
 

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Mobil 1 is probably about as good an oil as you need, one misconception is that Amsoil is PAO or Ester based and it's not although they certainly try and insinuate it is.
In my opinion if you are using a Group 3 oil which is what Mobil 1 and Amsoil is it probably doesn't much matter which one you go with, if you want the best synthetic oil look for an Ester based (Group 5) oil, Bel-Ray EXS and Revenol Ester are probably the best for the money and easiest to find on Amazon.
I would use SAE 15W-50 or 20W-50 in the summer in my hexhead.
The biggest difference between AMSOIL and Mobil 1 is that AMSOIL is The First in Synthetics, it's 100% synthetic, and Mobil 1 is not. Mobil 1 is in the API category of "full synthetic". AMSOIL is not in that category because AMSOIL is 100% synthetic, and has been for over 47 years.
 

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The biggest difference between AMSOIL and Mobil 1 is that AMSOIL is The First in Synthetics, it's 100% synthetic, and Mobil 1 is not. Mobil 1 is in the API category of "full synthetic". AMSOIL is not in that category because AMSOIL is 100% synthetic, and has been for over 47 years.
For all motorcycles, AMSOIL features 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-40, 15W-50, 20W-50, 15W-60, and flat 60, for street bikes. The AMSOIL 2-Stroke and 4-Stroke racing dirt bike high performance oil's are in whole different category.
 

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The biggest difference between AMSOIL and Mobil 1 is that AMSOIL is The First in Synthetics, it's 100% synthetic, and Mobil 1 is not. Mobil 1 is in the API category of "full synthetic". AMSOIL is not in that category because AMSOIL is 100% synthetic, and has been for over 47 years.
I thought the biggest difference was the price?
:unsure:
 

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BMW OIL lasts 6000 kilos the. Feel the bike behaving differently changed to Motul 7100 Full synthetic and I can get 9000kilometers before feeling in gears change on a 2016GSA LC the oil cooled you can use any standard oil doesn’t make a difference
 

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The oil change interval recommended by BMW (6,000 miles) is probably a little bit conservative as it is, I would recommend that be followed.
There are many very good oils on the market that meet BMW's specs (SAE 5W-40, API SL / JASO MA2).

Motorex is fine, I think Bel-Ray is the best and Shell Rotella T6 is probably the most popular.

This is a list of suitable oils that I compiled that meet BMW's specifications for the new liquid cooled machines:

Oils meeting BMW Specifications (API SL, JASO MA2 and 5W-40):

Motul 300V Ester Core
Motul 7100 4T (Ester)
Bel-Ray EXS (Ester)
Bel-Ray Scooter Synthetic Ester Blend 4T
Shell Rotella T6
Motorex Boxer 4T
Motorex PowerSynt 4T (PAO/Ester)
Motorex Top Speed 4T
Spectro Platinum 4
Liqui Moly Racing 4T Synth
BMW Advantec
Castrol Power 1 4T Racing
Silkolene Pro 4 Plus
Silkolene Quad ATV
Ravenol Motobike 4-TAKT Fullsynth (Ester)
Repsol Moto Racing 4T (orange container)
Kawasaki Performance ATV/UTV (semi-syn)
Petronas Syntium Moto 4SP (not sold in U.S)
Delek Motor Cycle 4T (not sold in U.S)
Eurol Sportbike (not in in U.S)
Elf Scooter4 Maxi City (not sold in U.S)
Olio Motore 4T Emi (not sold in U.S)
Gulf Syntrac 4T (not sold in U.S)
Zuminol Double Ester (not sold in U.S)
Ulei Moto 4T Ipone Full Power Katana (not sold in U.S)
Eurol Sportbike (not sold in U.S)
ER 540 Infinity Energy (not sold in U.S)
Kroon-Oil Expulsa RR (not sold in U.S)
Freedom 4T Motorcycle Oil SM (not sold in U.S)
Rock Oil Synthesis 4 (not sold in U.S)
Bardahl Racer Fully Syn 4T-N (not sold in U.S)
Champion Pro Scooter 4T (not sold in U.S)

There are other viscosity oils that are JASO MA2 and API SL (or higher) out there that are suitable but I wouldn't recommend straying too far away from the 5W40 weight that BMW recommends.
I have a 2012 R 1200 GS, oil cooled. Dry clutch...can I still use Shell Rotella t6??
 

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The dry clutch bikes can use pretty much anything in the right viscosity range. No clutch to worry about additives and friction modifiers.
 
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