Thank you for the response sir. Just to confirm though, you would recommend a change to w50 before a ride in 100+ temps?
Wait. So to confirm, you’d recommend changing the oil to a w50 before a ride in temps over 100?In you Hexhead you can also use Mobil-1 15W-50 avalaible at Walmart for $23 per 5 quart jug. Every year they run a $10 rebate (two per household) so you get a great oil for $13. I use it and change it at 5,000 mile intervals only because I have mutiple motorcycles and 5,000 mile intervals are easy to remember. If I only had one bike I'd have no problem letting it go the recommended 6,000 mile change interval or beyond.
You can spend more money but you don't have to.
Wait. So to confirm, you’d recommend changing the oil to a w50 before a ride in temps over 100?
I had not realized that there were many who preferred to change the oil at half intervals, me and most of the guys I ride with would much rather oil change interval were extended as it never fails that you need to stop for an oil change midway during the course of a long trip.
I can complete an oil change for about $30 ($20 for a gallon of Rotella T6 and $10 for a Hiflo HF160 filter) but the oil usually still looks very clean at around 3,000 miles, in fact I think I have about 2,900 on the oil in my bike now I'll post a photo when I'm able.
I'm not preaching against changing the oil sooner than recommended but I do wonder if it does any good or even more harm than good as new oil filters take a second or two to refill on initial start-up after being changed, I always cringe when hitting the start button after an oil change knowing that I have zero oil pressure until the filter fills.
From the 2012 rider manual. Follow it for viscosity. With a dry clutch and seperate transmission gear oil a non-motorcycle oil can be used. At a 4-6000 mile interval any synthetic (or semi-syn) will be fine.A lot of information in these oil threads and a bit exhausting sifting through for the one piece of info you are looking for so I will ask my questions straight up. I am riding a 2012 GS with ~10k miles. I live in Idaho and I'm a three season rider. I put on more paved miles than dirt. I enjoy gravel and despite many years riding dirt bikes, I stay away from single tracks and overly challenging off-road tracks on the GS. Having bought the bike with 4k after which I had the dealer go through everything including new fluids all around I've done one oil change on my own using BMW oil and filter. Planning to do a spring change and looking at the many choices for oil. I'm thinking full synthetic and my questions mostly concern viscosity and brand. FWIW, I am not looking for an oil to allow me to stretch out my service intervals as I plan to change at 4-6k regardless.
1. Viscosity - Because I don't plan on riding in cold weather, what is the reasoning behind a 5-?w viscosity? The 2012 is air/oil cooled, is there a reason that I shouldn't consider a 10w? or 15w? oil? I would think that the 15w would provide better lubrication when the engine is up to operating temps. By the same reasoning, on the high end, 50w would not thin out as quickly as 40w. The last thought on viscosity concerns the transmission. Seems like somewhere in these threads there was discussion about shifting and deterioration of same over time. Is there a benefit to the transmission in running a 15w50 over a 5w50?
2. Brand - There seems to be a lot of brand loyalty when it comes to oil, and most oils are probably fairly comparable. There are a couple that jump out and raise questions. First is Motorex BOXER 4T, SAE 15W/50. It claims to be formulated for air cooled boxers. Another is Bel Ray EXS Synthetic Ester 4T and the last is Bel Ray EXL Mineral 4T which is the only oil Bel Ray recommends when you use their online oil selector. Both of the Bel Ray choices are 10w-40 or 20w50.
Thanks for any information you can provide.
I thought of that too, but you'd be fighting compression. Easiest is a quick bump of starter, if it fires off probably no biggie.Would putting bike into 6th gear and moving the rear wheel, cycle the cylinders and get the oil moving?
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Thanks for the feedback Krons. I've always been suspicious of multi-vis that has such a wide range like 5-50. Seems that that covers them for all operating temps, but if I am not operating near of below freezing I don't see the reasoning. It's interesting that BMW seems to lean toward 5-50.
As a dealer it is easy...new bikes need 5w on the low end...old (oil cooled like your) bikes need 50 on warm end so stocking 5w50 covers them all, although 20w50 is the official recommendation in your manual.Thanks for the feedback Krons. I've always been suspicious of multi-vis that has such a wide range like 5-50. Seems that that covers them for all operating temps, but if I am not operating near of below freezing I don't see the reasoning. It's interesting that BMW seems to lean toward 5-50.
Any thoughts good or bad on Motorex Boxer 4T 15w50?As a dealer it is easy...new bikes need 5w on the low end...old (oil cooled like your) bikes need 50 on warm end so stocking 5w50 covers them all, although 20w50 is the official recommendation in your manual.
I agree spanning that range is tough for an oil. If the bike is garaged 20w50 is fine riding above freezing, I just let mine warm up a bit before getting on the throttle hard. Last winter I ran 10w40 in my 2007 but switched to 20w50 when the June temps started hitting 80°F + as I was close to a change anyway.
Good: It's a quality oil.Any thoughts good or bad on Motorex Boxer 4T 15w50?