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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Thanks! I have items coming from them to do all the fluid changes and a few of their tools as well. I saw that motor. I also saw this one. https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35462960-quantum-intank-efi-fuel-pump-for-bmw-r1200gs-2003-2018-replaces-16147680379.html It comes with motor, tube and pre filter. This is the one David Petersen of Bestrest products used in his video on refreshing a BMW fuel pump assembly. Anyone else use a Quantum motor?

If you do conclude the fuel pump's shot, you might find this listing at Beemer Boneyard to be useful. Whole lot cheaper than a new pump assembly from BMW...
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Getting fuel but still no crank.

New fuel pump motor installed. Injectors cleaned, tank cleaned and lines flushed. Fuel pump code cleared us GS 911 tool. Bike is on center stand and side stand is up. Still won't crank. I verified I am getting gas at injectors on both side. I pulled each injector and laid it on a piece of cardboard. I'm getting a good spray from what I can tell on both sides. It is acting like there is no spark. I plugged GS 911 in again and no codes for anything.
I have new plugs but.... None of my 16mm or 5/8 spark plugs will fit in the hole! So now I have to find a thin walled 16mm socket. Anything else I can check till I get the 16mm socket?
 

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ignition coils... about $100 each new. I've seen reports of some using ignition coils from a Ford, but I can't remember where I saw that, maybe advrider??? Maybe used ones from Beemer Boneyard?
Maybe I missed it, but did you buy this bike or just working on it to see if it runs. Your friend owes you quite a bit for the work you're doing.

you can get a thin walled socket on amazon
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Thanks. I'd want to test the coils first before ordering. Just need to figure out how. There are 4 on the GS from that I can tell. 2 straight and 2 angled. I can't see how all 4 would fail at once! Can you just pull coil and put a plug in and crank to see if you get spark at the plug grounded against cylinder?
I bought this bike with understanding of problems. Coils from BMW are around $175-$190 each. I found them at Bob's BMW for $120 each.

ignition coils... about $100 each new. I've seen reports of some using ignition coils from a Ford, but I can't remember where I saw that, maybe advrider??? Maybe used ones from Beemer Boneyard?
Maybe I missed it, but did you buy this bike or just working on it to see if it runs. Your friend owes you quite a bit for the work you're doing.

you can get a thin walled socket on amazon
 

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Thanks. I'd want to test the coils first before ordering. Just need to figure out how. There are 4 on the GS from that I can tell. 2 straight and 2 angled. I can't see how all 4 would fail at once! Can you just pull coil and put a plug in and crank to see if you get spark at the plug grounded against cylinder?
4 bad coils? Hit by lightning :grin2: I had saved this video for testing my Triumph coils. Might help. Good luck with it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=testing+motorcycle+coils&rlz=1C1GGRV_enCA770CA770&oq=testing+motorcycle+coils&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.9798j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1
 

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what do the ignition coil "wires" connect to on the non spark plug end? If that is bad...is it the whole wiring harness? Speaking from ignorance here, but if nothing is getting to the ignition coils the problem could be more central, and the more central you go, the more $$$ I would think?
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Gotcha. So it won’t fire. It cranks but no fire. Key in, push starter button, starter works, bike turns over normally, injectors squirt fuel, but it appears no spark at plugs. It did catch a few times like there was a spark but just briefly. I have not tested coils yet. I don’t see how all of the coils could go bad at nice on a bike with only 10k miles that was running when stored but I guess anything is possible. The GS911 show no issues or codes.


Just to clarify. In my garage won't "crank" it means you turn the key and nothing happens. Won't "fire" means it cranks but no ignition. Are you no crank or no fire?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I pulled top right coil and put a new spark plug in. Grounded against cylinder. It’s getting good spark. I’ll try the rest this afternoon. If those are good could it be the fuel pump controller? Is there a test to see if controller is good? I’m going to order the Burnsmoto bypass and a spark plug socket that fits as soon as I find one.
 

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I pulled top right coil and put a new spark plug in. Grounded against cylinder. It’s getting good spark. I’ll try the rest this afternoon. If those are good could it be the fuel pump controller? Is there a test to see if controller is good? I’m going to order the Burnsmoto bypass and a spark plug socket that fits as soon as I find one.
Amazon (yuck).
$3.99
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-884504-8-Inch-Metric-Socket/dp/B0074HNKI6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=245WSZJ2KBJM6RCBFGZK
 

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Discussion Starter #32
It lives!!!

I found a socket that would fit the plugs. Replaced all 4. I checked all 4 coils and good spark at each one. Hooked GS911 in and no faults. Hit the starter and after 8 or so cycles nothing. I could tell it was trying. Turned key off. Set a minute and turned on and hit the starter and after 3 cycles it started! Woot!
 

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Progress!
The lower plugs always look oilier, and that it was sitting so long, probably more so. Looks like the dual electrodes are worn down?

What did the exhaust look like?

Have you changed all the fluids yet, including FD?

Re brakes...on my 04 roadster, at low speed they were a little "grabby," (iirc) but not anything problematic
 

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Discussion Starter #35
All fluids changed. I changed FD tonight. Fluid looked like new. Splines were bone dry though. Evidence of some white grease paste on rubber boot but not much grease residue on splines. I used Loctite 8012 moly paste. I've used that on my Ural hack rig and it has worked well so far. Electrodes were not worn down at all just oily and black as tar. Exhaust looks fine.

Progress!
The lower plugs always look oilier, and that it was sitting so long, probably more so. Looks like the dual electrodes are worn down?

What did the exhaust look like?

Have you changed all the fluids yet, including FD?

Re brakes...on my 04 roadster, at low speed they were a little "grabby," (iirc) but not anything problematic
 

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I have a friend with a GS he wants to sell. It's an 05 GS with ABS and plenty of accessories. Issue is it has not been cranked in over a year and the gas is at least that old maybe a bit older. Battery is dead. He does not remember if he used additive in the gas. I bought a F650GS from him in past in similar case and it needed a fuel pump since it was rusted/locked up. Other than that it was a great bike. This GS has been stored inside. So what are the potential problems? I assume fuel pump may have issues. What else? What do I need to check? Build date for the R1200GS was 5/05. He believes its less than 20k miles.

I'm thinking drain the gas and add fresh with techron and stabil additive. Add new battery and crank and ride to warm up fluids then change all. Do a brake flush and check rear splines while changing the FD oil.

Thought, suggestions on the best way to bring it back to life?



Thanks!
I went from 2000 K1200LT with i loved.....was talked into getting GS from my buddies.....i found a 2005 that was in pristine condition.....everything was good on that bike except I found out on a long ride in the mountains that my ABS had failed.....I had failed to let the bike go thru the start-up sequence and started it right after turning the ignition on.....immediately got flashing ABS lights.....I was leaving Rancho Margarita campground and going to Salt Lake.......of course I had to go down the back side of the mountains to get to I-5 with very little braking action....I attempted to use the procedure to correct the ABS and it worked until I got 225 miles from Salt Lake......now it was raining like cats and dogs and hardly any braking action.....did the process before coming home and it finally worked.....got home and found out battery was bad.......sorry for the story, but i immediately traded for 2016 R1200gsLC......I found that the GS was lighter than the LT and it was 16 years newer in technology........not to mention all the work that you may have to do for seals, gas filter valve adjust and all the other things associated with getting your friends bike ready to ride,.......i would not buy it.....get a newer GS or a new one....just my 2-cents......

just for laughs, if your ABS module goes out on that bike, provided you have ABS on it, will be around $2500 plus to replace......good luck.....
 

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I went from 2000 K1200LT with i loved.....was talked into getting GS from my buddies.....i found a 2005 that was in pristine condition.....everything was good on that bike except I found out on a long ride in the mountains that my ABS had failed.....I had failed to let the bike go thru the start-up sequence and started it right after turning the ignition on.....immediately got flashing ABS lights.....I was leaving Rancho Margarita campground and going to Salt Lake.......of course I had to go down the back side of the mountains to get to I-5 with very little braking action....I attempted to use the procedure to correct the ABS and it worked until I got 225 miles from Salt Lake......now it was raining like cats and dogs and hardly any braking action.....did the process before coming home and it finally worked.....got home and found out battery was bad.......sorry for the story, but i immediately traded for 2016 R1200gsLC......I found that the GS was lighter than the LT and it was 16 years newer in technology........not to mention all the work that you may have to do for seals, gas filter valve adjust and all the other things associated with getting your friends bike ready to ride,.......i would not buy it.....get a newer GS or a new one....just my 2-cents......

just for laughs, if your ABS module goes out on that bike, provided you have ABS on it, will be around $2500 plus to replace......good luck.....
Yes, a bad battery will make the servo system act up... But that can happen to any year bike, and on a lot of systems in addition to brakes. It's the price we pay for all these sophisticated electronics. Hardly a reason to single out the servo brakes as a something to avoid. Anyway, there are plenty of discussions on this board about non-servo ABS pumps failing, which is hardly a cheap thing either (MAX BMW wants $1950 for an LC ABS unit).

My personal experience with the servo brakes on my 2006: bought the bike three years ago, hit 50K miles on the way home from the dealer. Changed the fluid mostly so I had a baseline for scheduling maintenance of my own. No mention of brake repairs (just a fluid change) in the service record. Just turned 70K, no problems whatsoever. Just changed the fluid week before last. Not a difficult job at all.

I rather like the servo brakes, particularly the front-rear linkage feature, as my right foot turns out a bit and this makes it hard to reach the rear brake pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I found that the GS was lighter than the LT and it was 16 years newer in technology........not to mention all the work that you may have to do for seals, gas filter valve adjust and all the other things associated with getting your friends bike ready to ride,.......i would not buy it.....get a newer GS or a new one....just my 2-cents......

just for laughs, if your ABS module goes out on that bike, provided you have ABS on it, will be around $2500 plus to replace......good luck.....
Glad you found a ride you like! FYI, if you ever need ABS module repairs you can have that done at Module Masters now for around $350. They take your old unit and rebuild like new for a fraction of the cost of new!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yea, there's yer problem!! You had your upper and lower plugs reversed! haaaah... So they don't look like they'd have any issues firing it up. Is it starting consistently now?
HAHA! :grin2::wink2: So far so good. It is still a bit hesitant to start. I have started it 4 times now and the best way seems to be to turn key on, wait for everything to cycle thru and hit the starter and hold for 2-3 seconds and release. Then turn key off and back on and repeat and it fires right up after that. It has a bit of a rough idle for about 3 seconds then smooths out. I plan to try and flush the brakes today then I'll take it for a short ride and give it a chance to heat up easy.
 
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