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It is still a bit hesitant to start. I have started it 4 times now and the best way seems to be to turn key on, wait for everything to cycle thru and hit the starter and hold for 2-3 seconds and release. Then turn key off and back on and repeat and it fires right up after that. It has a bit of a rough idle for about 3 seconds then smooths out.
Sat with old gas for an extended period of time? How long does the pump cycle? Perhaps a ride will to trip any codes that might lead to your gremlin.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Sat with old gas for an extended period of time? How long does the pump cycle? Perhaps a ride will to trip any codes that might lead to your gremlin.
Sat for over a year. I think it just needs to be run a bit. I have flushed and cleaned the entire system. It’s hard to hear the pump but I would say it cycles for a few seconds after key is turned on.
 

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Sat for over a year. I think it just needs to be run a bit. I have flushed and cleaned the entire system. It’s hard to hear the pump but I would say it cycles for a few seconds after key is turned on.
Strong possibility a run will blow any crud out of it. Could have been some stale gas residue lurking. The pump on my 04 is 1-2 seconds and easily audible. Let us know how it goes.
 

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I went from 2000 K1200LT with i loved.....was talked into getting GS from my buddies.....i found a 2005 that was in pristine condition.....everything was good on that bike except I found out on a long ride in the mountains that my ABS had failed.....I had failed to let the bike go thru the start-up sequence and started it right after turning the ignition on.....immediately got flashing ABS lights.....I was leaving Rancho Margarita campground and going to Salt Lake.......of course I had to go down the back side of the mountains to get to I-5 with very little braking action....I attempted to use the procedure to correct the ABS and it worked until I got 225 miles from Salt Lake......now it was raining like cats and dogs and hardly any braking action.....did the process before coming home and it finally worked.....got home and found out battery was bad.......sorry for the story, but i immediately traded for 2016 R1200gsLC......I found that the GS was lighter than the LT and it was 16 years newer in technology........not to mention all the work that you may have to do for seals, gas filter valve adjust and all the other things associated with getting your friends bike ready to ride,.......i would not buy it.....get a newer GS or a new one....just my 2-cents......

just for laughs, if your ABS module goes out on that bike, provided you have ABS on it, will be around $2500 plus to replace......good luck.....
If anyone has an ABS Servo brake bike they have given up on, I will pay $500 cash for the bike you are giving up on. >:)
 

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Sat for over a year. I think it just needs to be run a bit. I have flushed and cleaned the entire system. It’s hard to hear the pump but I would say it cycles for a few seconds after key is turned on.
I had an ask around and here's what I got. Just sharing what was given...

"In the past (and this is automotive related) if you have to cycle the key to start, it could be due to no residual pressure in the system. You can overcome that by cycling the key. If there was a plugged filter or pickup, you might end up having to cycle the (key) pump to suck enough fuel past the restriction. Not all that likely if it smooths out and runs ok under load."

"Is there a relay for the pump that you can swap with another? Just need to make sure if its a 5 pin you swap it with a 5 pin... or whatever the case may be. If the connections inside the relay are festered, they can do funny things."

"Maybe bad contact on the pump circuit?"

That's all I got.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Thanks! I'll have to do a bit of investigating. I only replace the fuel pump motor but I got a lot of flow thru it when I purged the gas lines. I pulled the injectors from the lines and put a mason jar under each line and hit the starter button. With about 5 cycles I got about 1.5" of fuel in each jar. Seems the pump is working fine. Could be a relay but I have no idea where!

I had an ask around and here's what I got. Just sharing what was given...

"In the past (and this is automotive related) if you have to cycle the key to start, it could be due to no residual pressure in the system. You can overcome that by cycling the key. If there was a plugged filter or pickup, you might end up having to cycle the (key) pump to suck enough fuel past the restriction. Not all that likely if it smooths out and runs ok under load."

"Is there a relay for the pump that you can swap with another? Just need to make sure if its a 5 pin you swap it with a 5 pin... or whatever the case may be. If the connections inside the relay are festered, they can do funny things."

"Maybe bad contact on the pump circuit?"

That's all I got.
 

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Took her for a few laps around the neighborhood. Runs good and strong everything works except rear brake is soft. Next on agenda is a full brake bleed.
If the rear brake is spongy, you'll probably find air in the control circuit.

When I flushed mine a couple weeks ago, I found there was some air in the rear control circuit as well. I wonder if this has something to do with the linked system--in particular, I tend to not use the rear brake pedal very often (just squeeze the front lever and let the linked system apply the rear; yeah, I'm lazy), and I wonder if the lack of regular exercise allows the rear control circuit to admit air in some way. Seals dry out, maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Thanks! What size tubing did you use to go over the bleed nipples on calipers and for the modules under the gas tank? Will 1/4” work?

If the rear brake is spongy, you'll probably find air in the control circuit.

When I flushed mine a couple weeks ago, I found there was some air in the rear control circuit as well. I wonder if this has something to do with the linked system--in particular, I tend to not use the rear brake pedal very often (just squeeze the front lever and let the linked system apply the rear; yeah, I'm lazy), and I wonder if the lack of regular exercise allows the rear control circuit to admit air in some way. Seals dry out, maybe?
 

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Thanks! What size tubing did you use to go over the bleed nipples on calipers and for the modules under the gas tank? Will 1/4” work?
Both use 1/4" tubing. The bleeders themselves are different sizes: the ones on the module are 7mm, while the ones on the calipers are 8mm. Do yourself a favor and get a six-point box wrench (or socket) for both; it really sucks to round them off, and it sounds like yours have had a lot of time to get sticky.

BTW, there may be a "grub screw" in one of the front calipers instead of a bleeder. Apparently they came from the factory that way (something to do with how the system was initially filled). Almost everybody removes the grub screw and replaces it with a bleeder as part of the first flush... if you find the grub screw in there, it might be indicate the previous owner(s) never flushed the brake system... ugh...
 

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BTW, there may be a "grub screw" in one of the front calipers instead of a bleeder. Apparently they came from the factory that way (something to do with how the system was initially filled).
I'd forgotten about that. FWIW my May 2005 build GS had real bleeders, not grub screws. It may be only the earliest bikes that didn't get bleeders.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Thanks! Both of the front calipers have bleeders so good to go there. How much fluid did you use in changing? I have one pint but Jim's vids say 2 so I plan to pick up another pint today.

Both use 1/4" tubing. The bleeders themselves are different sizes: the ones on the module are 7mm, while the ones on the calipers are 8mm. Do yourself a favor and get a six-point box wrench (or socket) for both; it really sucks to round them off, and it sounds like yours have had a lot of time to get sticky.

BTW, there may be a "grub screw" in one of the front calipers instead of a bleeder. Apparently they came from the factory that way (something to do with how the system was initially filled). Almost everybody removes the grub screw and replaces it with a bleeder as part of the first flush... if you find the grub screw in there, it might be indicate the previous owner(s) never flushed the brake system... ugh...
 

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>> If the servo unit does go tits up they can be rebuilt for significantly less than BMW charges <<
if that is a model ModuleMasters works on. I would give them a call to be sure.
also, does this bike have a float or the dreaded fuel strip?
and was the 05 GS out of the woods for clutch splines??
i believe all 2005s have that fucking fuel strip......mine did and was a pain in the ass
 

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HAHA! :grin2::wink2: So far so good. It is still a bit hesitant to start. I have started it 4 times now and the best way seems to be to turn key on, wait for everything to cycle thru and hit the starter and hold for 2-3 seconds and release. Then turn key off and back on and repeat and it fires right up after that. It has a bit of a rough idle for about 3 seconds then smooths out. I plan to try and flush the brakes today then I'll take it for a short ride and give it a chance to heat up easy.
i think my issues with the bike was i failed to let it cycle thru before i started it....
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
i believe all 2005s have that fucking fuel strip......mine did and was a pain in the ass


This 05 has a float. I just got home a few minutes ago. Last time I cranked was around 10 am today. I turned on, let it cycle thru and hit the starter. It started right up with a bit of a stumble on idle. Blip throttle slightly and it smoothed out. Progress! Maybe the Pure gas, Seafoam and Techron fuel injector cleaner cocktail is breaking up whatever minor varnish may have been in the motor.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #57

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Thanks! Both of the front calipers have bleeders so good to go there. How much fluid did you use in changing? I have one pint but Jim's vids say 2 so I plan to pick up another pint today.
First time I changed the fluid, I bought a bottle of LiquiMoly fluid from Beemer Boneyard (along with their special funnel); it was 1/2 liter or just a bit more than a pint. It was just barely enough. Second change, I just picked up a quart of fluid at the local Advance Auto store. I probably used a bit more than half of it. So I have a bit less than a pint of leftover fluid that will not be any good in two years... but that quart at Advance Auto was cheaper than the three six-ounce bottles the local bike shop wanted to sell me...

BTW... if you do not have this funnel, you can fake it with a regular funnel and some black tape, but the BeemerBoneyard item does make the fluid change a bit more pleasant.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Finally had time to work on bike this weekend. I pulled brake calipers and removed pads and checked. Plenty of meat left in all of them. They hardly look worn. I cleaned calipers and the pins with brake cleaner. Lubed pins with anti seize and coated the back of pads with anti squeal and reassembled. I flushed per Jim's excellent DVD's. Tested using GS911 brake bleed test and the rear failed. Bled the circuit and the calipers again. This time I got them to pass but I had to really push HARD on the rear brake pedal. Front passed as well but I had to pull lever really hard to get it to pass.
Took for a test spin. Fronts grab hard and fast with little movement. Rear you have to depress the brake pedal quite a ways but at the end of a long downward foot pedal stroke it will grab hard enough to skid and engage ABS. So my question is, should I have to push that far down on rear brake to get it to grab hard? It begins to slow a bit as soon as you engage but to get it to stop you have to almost bottom out the foot pedal.
 
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