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Just purchased my first GS ('13 WC). Moving from HD/Victory, I love the GS.

Time for my first oil change. Am I better off to buy a kit from ADVDept, Bob's, or piece together the stuff myself?

Thanks in advance!
 

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I guess it depends on your location. No place close to obtain it here. Have used Bob’s , A&S Cycles, Ted Porter, etc. others use Beemer Boneyard and on and on. I do like getting all the kit in one purchase. Google is your friend. :smile2:
 

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Just purchased my first GS ('13 WC). Moving from HD/Victory, I love the GS.

Time for my first oil change. Am I better off to buy a kit from ADVDept, Bob's, or piece together the stuff myself?

Thanks in advance!
I have used Euro Motoelectrics for a kit? If you dont need a kit the more of the individual pieces you purchase (filters, washers, etc.) the more discount.
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/R1200GSW-Maintenance-Kit-p/r1200w-779-799oe.htm

Rock Auto carries the oil filter by Mahle who makes the OEM filters for $8.24
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mahle/clevite,OC619,oil+filter,5340

and you can go to Wally World and get a gallon of Rotella T6 for about $22.00 and it meets all requirements.
Otherwise, Amazon usually has a great selection of qualified oils too.
 

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I just get a complete kit minus oil from BeemerBoneYard. Very convenient to not have worry about all the different sized crush washers and o-rings and such. For example, my Camhead RT has four different crush-washers and one o-ring, all different sizes:

- Engine oil drain
- Transmission oil drain
- Transmission oil fill
- Final drive fill (which is copper of course <dripping with sarcasm>
- Final drive drain plug o-ring

I got the gear oil from my dealer and the engine oil from Amazon (there was a sale going and I got enough for two changes for some ridiculously low price).
 

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I agree on Beemer Boneyard. Make sure you have the filter removal wrench. It is a tight squeeze and off the shelf wrenches do not work. Beemer Boneyard sells the correct wrench.
I agree. I got one and it helps. Also, while you're at it, get one of their spark plug cap coil removal tools (I can't post links yet so you'll have to go over there and look it under Tools).
 

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I'm in love with my new, used '13 R1200GS Adventure, last of the oil heads. FYI, I'm putting 100% synthetic mobil 1 15w/50 and a K&N in it and reusing the crush ring. I'll update as to if it leaks or not. I'll get grief for this, but when it's done draining, I start it for about a second and turn it off and about 6 to 8 Tbsp's of additional oil comes out. Please hold your comments (unless you just can't) about pump cavitation or wear because there is "no oil" in the engine. The parts still have oil on them and it's worth it to me to have all the oil out for a better oil change.
 

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I'm in love with my new, used '13 R1200GS Adventure, last of the oil heads. FYI, I'm putting 100% synthetic mobil 1 15w/50 and a K&N in it and reusing the crush ring. I'll update as to if it leaks or not. I'll get grief for this, but when it's done draining, I start it for about a second and turn it off and about 6 to 8 Tbsp's of additional oil comes out. Please hold your comments (unless you just can't) about pump cavitation or wear because there is "no oil" in the engine. The parts still have oil on them and it's worth it to me to have all the oil out for a better oil change.
Do you lremove the heads to get the oil out of those as well?:) My simple trick is to just change the oil more frequently. I change mine every 5k instead of 6k.
 

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I'm not that anal about it but it's just too easy to squeeze that last 1/4 to 1/2 cup of dirty oil out I can't not do it. Starting it for the first time after though you can hear the pump cavitate for about a second or two before it gets quenched so beware. No leaks reusing the crush washer please know. Good stuff! Later today I might change the rear differential oil. Any suggestions as to which type and weight? TY
 

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Thanks Rick, I'll get some today as a new rear tire will be going on so I'll make this happen as well. I'm now reading about the gear box oil. How often do you change that and what do you use sir? TY
 

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I'm in love with my new, used '13 R1200GS Adventure, last of the oil heads. FYI, I'm putting 100% synthetic mobil 1 15w/50 and a K&N in it and reusing the crush ring. I'll update as to if it leaks or not. I'll get grief for this, but when it's done draining, I start it for about a second and turn it off and about 6 to 8 Tbsp's of additional oil comes out. Please hold your comments (unless you just can't) about pump cavitation or wear because there is "no oil" in the engine. The parts still have oil on them and it's worth it to me to have all the oil out for a better oil change.
I would much, much, much rather do a flush with the heaviest cheap Walmart oil, then drain and refill with your Mobil 1. Your cavitation noises tell the tale. Either that or as earlier mentioned change more often.

The flush method would get oil out of the heads, cooler, etc too.
 

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I would much, much, much rather do a flush with the heaviest cheap Walmart oil, then drain and refill with your Mobil 1. Your cavitation noises tell the tale. Either that or as earlier mentioned change more often.

The flush method would get oil out of the heads, cooler, etc too.
Yup, flush with 2 quarts maybe 3 of some Walmart generic would do as well..
 

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Hi Matt
I also came from the HD/Victory crowd 2 yrs ago. My $0.02, is just follow what the engineers at BMW have recommended for oil changes, i.e. viscosity, frequency, etc, rather than trying to squeeze out an additional couple of ounces.

I've seen photos of these motors internals after high mileage and the cylinder wall still shows the cross hatch. These are long life motors.

Welcome aboard
brian
 

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Indeed Brian. The engineers do provide a great baseline for sure I would agree. What gets played to the public isn't always the same thing. I think BMW is still recommending Castrol. I think it might be a business deal they have with Castrol more than anything but that's the skeptic in me. There are plenty of lab tests on YouTube showing Castrol is not the best motor oil and there are better oils you can use. I ride in eastern WA and last year it got to 116 one day so my oil and grade will accommodate this scenario. Thank you Brian. I love this forum as wall as advrider.
 

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Hi guys, flush of engine is a good practice. First I drain old oil after that open valve covers and make valve clearances check. When open cover in both heads there is about 2 cups old engine oil that I drain in moment of opening.
One old aviation rule is: once in a machine, second time dont return liquids. This is a reason my sequence 1st old oil drain, 2nd valve clearance check.
About oil in a gearbox and final drive: for my older than your model Service manual recommend 75W140 (I think producer is not critical) this is transmission/ diferential oil recomended for Nissan GTR or similar BMW M runners.
When I buy in shop guy told me: "You have a good car" I saw that is for motorcycle.
In a real life after purchase my used bike I put 75W90 in gearbox and in a final drive. After year or so I bought Service manual. Read recommendation and in next change I put 75W140. There is a difference and will explain them:
1) Gearbox - only when bike is cold (respectively gearbox) sometimes 1st not engage from first time. After acheiving of work temp all is normal. With 75W140 this problem disappear. 1st engage form first time doesnt matter cold or warm.
2) Final drive - there is a shavings in ABS sensor form final drive every time. Unfortunately have not a picture, but shavings with 75W140 are approximately half.
These are my practical observations. You decide what type of oil to use.
 

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Great information! Thank you. I did just put 15w 50 in the engine and 75w90 in the gearbox and rear drive fyi.

Much appreciated.

MC
 
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