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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I've just joined because I'm about to acquire a very low mileage bike that hasn't been started or ridden for several years.
It's a 2008 R1200GS with just over 5000K's on the clock.
Apart from changing the fuel, fitting a new battery and changing the brake and clutch fluid can anyone give me advice on anything else this bike may need to become a regular rider again?
I'll also check the tyre dates.
Do these bikes have timing belts that need updating?
New spark plugs?
Anything that is affected by time rather than mileage?
Seals?
I haven't owned a BMW before.
Thanks.
 

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Riding a 2009 R1200gs
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Theses bikes have 3 oils that shoud be changed (Engine, transmission and final drive).
Change oil filter
Change hydraulic clutch oil (DO NOT USE BRAKE FLUID, get the proper mineral oil from the dealer)
Final drive splines should be checked/greased
Rubber boots at both ends of swing arm, check for cracks (rubber might have dried)
Rubber bellow over the ball joint at the end of the front telelever, check for cracks
Alternator belt should be replaced

No timing belts, they are chains

If you don't have ABS, front and rear brake oil should be changed separately

Before starting it, remove the spark plugs, put 1-2 table spoon of oil in each cylinder then turn the motor manually (put in 6th gear then turn rear wheel) one minute to lubricate the pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thankyou very much. I'll definitely do all of that. Interestingly the local dealer told me exactly none of that.
So I'll go elsewhere for that fluid which I fully expected to be Dot4 brake fluid.
 

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Riding a 2009 R1200gs
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Welcome among the BMW Gs owner Lowbeem

If you did not get the owners manual from the seller, you can dowload it here for free directly at Motorrad

This dealer has the maintenance schedule on it's web site, I suggest that you assume that no maintenance were performed and start new.

If you are not sure how to perform some of the steps, ask here, we'll try to help or point you in the right direction.
 

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R1250GS 2021
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I'd remove the tank and remove all of the old fuel. While still off, put 5-6 liters of new fuel and shake the tank. You have to do it for quite some time to make sure all the junk gets washed out. Remove that washing fuel and don't reuse it. Then repeat the process once again, again with fresh fuel. Don't try to start the bike with old fuel as fuel pump will suck all the junk into the filtering screen and then you have real problem.
 

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In addition of above mentioned details, check DOT of the tyres, if they are more than 5 years old, just change them. Motorcycle have only 2 tyres and they should be perfect.
 

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In addition to the fluids (I'd skip the clutch fluid as unless it leaked or got contaminated its pretty much a life of the bike) and rubber bits

  • Run the VIN number and see if there are any open recalls. If so schedule with the dealer to have them taken care of.
  • Even at low mileage I'd check the driveshaft to verify it is not rusty and the splines are lubricated.
  • I'd also pull the air filter and make sure the airbox is clean and free of bug or mice nests.
  • Spark plugs will be fine no need to change until 50,000+ miles
  • Check the valve lash. Most likely will not need adjusted but you never know
  • If the battery seems good but is older get it load tested or just replace it

Here is a quick reference I've been compiling:


Hexhead R1200GS/A Quick Reference:

  • Front tire pressure – 36 PSI
  • Rear tire pressure – 40 PSI
  • Rear wheel lug torque - 44 FT/LBS
  • Front/Rear caliper mount bolts (M8 x 32) torque - 22 FT/LBS
  • Front Axle torque - 37 FT/LBS
  • Front axle pinch bolt torque – 14 FT/LBS
  • Air filter – Mahle LX 984/2
  • Oil filter – HiFlo #164
  • Transmission oil – 800cc’s 75W-140 GL5 gear oil
  • Rear drive oil – 180cc’s 75W-140 GL5 gear oil
  • Engine oil – 4 liters (w/ filter change) 15W-50 or 20W-50
  • Intake valve – 0.15mm cold
  • Exhaust valve – 0.30mm cold
  • Headlight bulb – H7 (both hi/lo beam)
  • City light – #168 12V/5W


Front wheel bearings and seals


  • Left front wheel bearing – 6205 2RS
  • Right front wheel bearing – 6205 2RS
  • Left front wheel bearing seal 30 x 52 x 7 single lip
  • Right front wheel bearing seal – 35 x 52 x 7 single lip
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well thanks for all this great advice guys. For the record I'll just tell you how this aquisition occurred.
The bike was purchased by a very close friend, new in 2008. But he hasn't had time to ride and it's been stored in his brother's shed for a few years.
The other day he called to say he thought if I was interested he'd sell it to me for one dollar as he would rather someone got pleasure out of it than just get a bit of money.
So I said I couldn't possibly take such a wreckless gesture of generosity, but instead I would build him the Jazz guitar I know he wants. Thus the payment will be a contra deal to a similar value of the bike which I estimate would be about $10Kaud. If anyone knows about guitars I will be making a Benadetto style Jazz guitar with carved top and back. I usually specialize in high end classical guitars so this will be an interesting new thing for me.
It's funny because I have traded a guitar for a bike once before in my life but the other way round. I swapped a Norton 650ss for a DeJager classical many years ago. Still have the guitar but would rather have the bike.
Anyway that's enough about guitars on a bike forum. My friend says he knows of two recalls, the rear hub and something about the generator, so hoping they are still 'open'.
When he was riding he had all the proper services done but then it was stored so just hoping internal seals are still ok. I've recommissioned cars with more years on them than that so BMW should be good in those places.
Cheers.
 

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Since it’s been stored out of the elements I wouldn’t worry too much in general. Definitely leave the clutch fluid alone, it’s non-hydroscopic mineral oil and doesn’t ever need to be changed. The break fluid on the other hand is hydroscopic DOT4 and should be flushed every few years.

BMW sells a service manual DVD for about $110 which will give you a list of things to do based on time and mileage since last service, and then you can click on each item to see how it’s done. It’s pretty well made. But it’s Windows only and you need a DVD drive. You can make an image off of it to use in non-DVD computers or to carry it around in a thumb drive but you still need access to a computer with DVD drive once to do it.

i bought a low mileage 2009 a couple of years ago and it’s been a great bike. The seven year old Continental TKC70 tires showed no signs of cracking and still gripped like new so I just used them up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Hogges,
I own one of the old laptops with the dvd drive so that's no problem. I'll wait and see though because my friend said there was a manual if he could find it.
Really appreciate your help and the help from all who have replied.
It's a really nice community and I'm glad to have joined.
Will report back as the ownership unfolds.
Cheers.
 

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Thanks Hogges,
I own one of the old laptops with the dvd drive so that's no problem. I'll wait and see though because my friend said there was a manual if he could find it.
Really appreciate your help and the help from all who have replied.
It's a really nice community and I'm glad to have joined.
Will report back as the ownership unfolds.
Cheers.
Just wanted to add that the owner’s manuals are free to download from BMW in pdf format. It’s only the service manual which costs money and it’s not available as pdf to my knowledge, only in the interactive format.
 

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I bought a 2006 GS a few years ago and there was a recall on the fuel pump, so you may want to get that checked as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The bike finally turned up today and I've made a start on what needs doing.

I checked the brake fluid and it's OK. Oil is full in the sight glass and has a red colour so probably OK as well.

So I put my syphoning thingo in the tank, one of those things you shake till it starts to flow.
Drained one side and it was quite dark. Drained the other side and it was full of treacle.
So I took the tank right off. When I removed the part below the cap I found a cluster of crystalline stuff similar to battery acid and when I scraped that off I found a strange shaped thing that seemed to be made of lead. Is this a sneaky Beemer lead replacement idea?
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Gear shift
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So as I sloshed clean fuel about to clean the tank the fuel gauge almost fell out so I withdrew it to find it's wires loose at the other end. In order to connect them I'm going to have to remove the fuel pump but I'd rather do without a gauge till I have the right tool and the full service manual which may arrive soon.
I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to clip off the fuel lines and wires so I hope it goes back as easily.
Can't see a fuel filter externally, I know there will be one on the pump but there should be one somewhere else surely?
Just charging the battery so I'll see if that works. Worth a try. The Conti writing is still on the road surface of the tyres so they are like new. Except for their age from 2008. If they pass the rego with those I'll use them.
So I may get to try the key sometime tomorrow with fresh fuel.
The seat is at it's lowest setting but still a bit high so I'll be looking for the lowest one because my heels don't touch the ground on flat ground and I don't like that. But I can get it on the centre stand and off again with a bit of effort and care so I may get used to that.
 
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