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Discussion Starter #1
I plan on replacing my front wheel bearings the next time I remove my front wheel, probably for a tire change.
I have ordered the bearings and seals for both sides, now I just need to know what size removal tool/bearing extractor/collett to use?
If anyone has any experience removing/installing front wheel bearings would love to hear from you.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Having replaced lots of bearing wheel and other my biggest suggestion would be only replace the bearings if the current bearings need replaced. Remove the wheel and stick your finger in the bearing (like you back in the 8th grade at the movies with that special someone) and move it back and forth. If the bearing is silky smooth like in the 8th grade leave it alone. If its notchy or gritty feeling then its time to replace.

If you need to replace a blind bearing puller from HF makes it a breeze to remove the old. New bearing I store in the beer freezer so they are ready to go.

1. Find a socket or bearing driver slightly smaller than the outside race of the bearing. It must still hit the outside bearing race not the the seal or ball of the bearing.
2. Place new bearing in freezer for a couple hours (I store new bearings in the beer freezer so they are ready to go)
3.. Remove old bearings with bearing puller or drift
4.Clean out old bearing race with brake cleaner
5. Stage the socket and hammer
5. Go to freezer remove the bearing from plastic wrapper and smear a thin film of grease on it.
6. Heat the bearing race with a heat gun until almost too war to touch
7. Drop the bearing in the race. If lucky it'll fall into place and seat. If not center the socket over the bearing and tap it with the hammer. Remember you're not driving a 16 penny nail into an oak board just gently even tap until the bearing is seated in the race.
8. Put in wheel spacer and repeat for the other side.

Its a 20 minute job if done right. If done wrong it'll be and expensive lesson.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Having replaced lots of bearing wheel and other my biggest suggestion would be only replace the bearings if the current bearings need replaced. Remove the wheel and stick your finger in the bearing (like you back in the 8th grade at the movies with that special someone) and move it back and forth. If the bearing is silky smooth like in the 8th grade leave it alone. If its notchy or gritty feeling then its time to replace.

If you need to replace a blind bearing puller from HF makes it a breeze to remove the old. New bearing I store in the beer freezer so they are ready to go.

1. Find a socket or bearing driver slightly smaller than the outside race of the bearing. It must still hit the outside bearing race not the the seal or ball of the bearing.
2. Place new bearing in freezer for a couple hours (I store new bearings in the beer freezer so they are ready to go)
3.. Remove old bearings with bearing puller or drift
4.Clean out old bearing race with brake cleaner
5. Stage the socket and hammer
5. Go to freezer remove the bearing from plastic wrapper and smear a thin film of grease on it.
6. Heat the bearing race with a heat gun until almost too war to touch
7. Drop the bearing in the race. If lucky it'll fall into place and seat. If not center the socket over the bearing and tap it with the hammer. Remember you're not driving a 16 penny nail into an oak board just gently even tap until the bearing is seated in the race.
8. Put in wheel spacer and repeat for the other side.

Its a 20 minute job if done right. If done wrong it'll be and expensive lesson.
What size bearing puller do I need?
 

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Last time I put a front tire on I took bearings into the dealer with it and they didn't charge me to replace them...love that service manager at that (non-BMW) shop.

Mines an 07 with 37,000 miles at the time. They weren't rough but seemed to drag a bit, not as smooth as new. Seemed like cheap insurance to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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This is the correct BMW procedure for a 2009 R1200GS, it is probably very similar for more recent bikes.

Edit: I just saw in your signature that you have a 2017 GSA, I don't have the repair data for the recent model. My apologies.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
This is the correct BMW procedure for a 2009 R1200GS, it is probably very similar for more recent bikes.

Edit: I just saw in your signature that you have a 2017 GSA, I don't have the repair data for the recent model. My apologies.
20-100,

Thanks. I'll check it out.
I found the area in my repair CD, how the heck did you save it?
Never mind, I figured it out.
Its pretty much the same as your procedures.
 

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You need a 25mm kit for your bearing removal and install. I use a hd kit works well no beating with a hammer to remove and install.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You need a 25mm kit for your bearing removal and install. I use a hd kit works well no beating with a hammer to remove and install.
Jarrell,

Want to verify, I need to use a 25mm remover even though the bearing bore is 20mm?

Mark.
 

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Buy the kit then you covered and can us it on other bearings as well.

10-14mm (13/32"~9/19")

15-19 mm (9/32"~3/4")


18-25 mm (7/10"~1")


25-32 mm (1"~5/4")
 

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I just fit my 3/4 inch (19mm) puller from my Harley Bearing Tool kit on my spare front rim. Looks like it will work just fine when the time comes. So 20mm would be the one.
 

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I'm interested with this discussion! Just bought a 2016 R1200GS 25000 miles on it, but I get a lot of noise from the front wheel! i don't think it's the tire. Suspected it's from the bearing. any thoughts/suggestions helps
 

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I'm interested with this discussion! Just bought a 2016 R1200GS 25000 miles on it, but I get a lot of noise from the front wheel! i don't think it's the tire. Suspected it's from the bearing. any thoughts/suggestions helps
Hi Kenan, It's easy to check the front wheel bearing on a GS, put it on the center stand, have someone sit at the rear of the pillion seat. Front wheel will be off the ground.

Check for side play first; Grab the wheel one hand at top, the other at bottom, try to move sideway, there should be no free play. Turn the wheel 90 degres then repeat test. Again, no free play is allowed.

After that, rotate the wheel and check for grinding or binding.

To complete, remove the wheel, visually check the condition of the seals. If the seals are damaged, the bearing might have been contaminated. At the same time, clean the shaft, inspect it for grooves where the seal rubs, there should be none. Put new grease, put it back in place, torque it according to the specs. Torque the pinch bolt too.

If you have doubt, replace or have the bearing replaced, they are less expensive than a bearing failure.
 

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Hi Kenan, It's easy to check the front wheel bearing on a GS, put it on the center stand, have someone sit at the rear of the pillion seat. Front wheel will be off the ground.

Check for side play first; Grab the wheel one hand at top, the other at bottom, try to move sideway, there should be no free play. Turn the wheel 90 degres then repeat test. Again, no free play is allowed.

After that, rotate the wheel and check for grinding or binding.

To complete, remove the wheel, visually check the condition of the seals. If the seals are damaged, the bearing might have been contaminated. At the same time, clean the shaft, inspect it for grooves where the seal rubs, there should be none. Put new grease, put it back in place, torque it according to the specs. Torque the pinch bolt too.

If you have doubt, replace or have the bearing replaced, they are less expensive than a bearing failure.
did all the suggestions! it looks good but the noise is still there man. f...in sucks.
i did order the replacement ones to give it a try anyway. i'll post the result when i'm done with it.
Thanks for all of the suggestions guys.
 
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