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ROTELLA T6, anyone?

13135 Views 15 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Krons
On my F800GS I used ROTELLA T6 5W-40 synthetic oil with good results.

Anyone using the same on the R1200?

I purchaed an used 2012 with 4900 miles which the dealer did an oil change before delivery a week ago.
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Rotella T6

I used this on my K1200GT and it worked well. Good for wet clutches which the new wet heads have. I have a 2015 R1200gs now (sold the K1200) and would have no problem using T6. Your 2012 doesn't have a wet clutch but I am sure any quality oil would do the trick.
yep, using it now. I was embarking on a road trip and the 6k svc would be in the middle of it. I changed the oi and filter with T6 and a mobil 1 - 102.

I looked around a bunch and finally decided to try it. It meets the specs.

3k+ miles later and no issues, still on the road now and will change in a little over 2k miles.

I do not notice any improvemnt or decrease in engine noise, the ticking noise, shift-ability, whatever.
No oil used thus far

AFAIK right now I will use it again. One thing neat about the gallon jug is pouring the whole thing in and the oil level is right on the mark. So, no more measuring each quart/ml to get it "right."
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Rotella

Have used this oil since 2006 on three different motorcycles and have had no problems. I change oil every 6000 miles. It was highly recommended by an engineer who seemed to know quite a lot about
oils in general.
I started using T-6 when I bought my Dodge Ram with Cummins Diesel. I was so impressed with the oil I started using it in everything.
I have it in my truck, both my Honda cars, 3 KTM bikes.
I'll will be using it in my 2009 1200GS when I do my first change. The PO did oil not that long ago.
Have used this oil since 2006 on three different motorcycles and have had no problems. I change oil every 6000 miles. It was highly recommended by an engineer who seemed to know quite a lot about
oils in general.
That's interesting...on the last day I worked before my trip to Winnipeg, I had a patient who was a retired engineer who claimed to "know a lot about oils," and rode a Victory iirc. He said the same thing and was the final determinant in my decision to use the T6.
Well... There it is Rotella T6. I'm old school and change the oil, on everything I owne, every 3K miles... Small price to pay. Thanks chaps.
Love Rotella

Not only is Rotella T3 15w40 conventional, but Rotella T5 10w30 Semi-
synthetic is also awesome. Then there is T6 5w40, full synthetic....even better. I have run all three of these oils in my bikes from air cool Honda XR650L's to a KTM950Adv, etc....

Just for kicks, I ran T5 10w30 last year in the GS all year and winter...about 5,000 miles. I didn't test the oil, but the "seat of the pants" monitor was very positive. (You might ask why I ran a 10w30??? #1. It is heavy duty oil. #2. My owners manual said I could in milder environments. #3. I bought 6 gallons on a smoking sale at $5 a gallon and needed to use it up.)

Yesterday I just dumped the T5 and poured in some new T6 for the trip to Alaska and back. The mileage will be right at 8,000 miles and I don't want mess with a change on the trip, so went with full synthetic for the extra longevity. (If you search, you will find several 100k-200k+ boxers, where the owners are doing 10k OCI's with Rotella or Mobil 1 and great results.) I have been using T6 for about 6 years now in my bikes.

The oil is meant to last nearly forever in, hard-driven big diesel trucks......From a diesel truck forum....."All our trucks are equipped with by-pass filters and we typically run oil well past 50,000 miles providing oil samples are good and the TBN is still in acceptable ranges."
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Going to change oil for first time. Thanks for your post, I will be saving money and using Rotella over Castrol power1. Can't find oil filter that fits my 2016, K&N 160 has been used years prior for 1200gs models. I assume that would be ok? 11 42 7 673 541 thats the number on the oil filter now. Any help would be appreciated.
I use Rotella T6 in my 2013 and have for the last 32k miles with good results (engine still runs).

As far as oil filters go the K&N KN160 is the correct filter for the wethead bikes as is the Hiflofiltro HF-160 and HF-160RC (Racing)
These filters can be found on Amazon and Ebay for in the $10 range.

I cut apart a HF-160RC just for fun, looks like a good quality filter:

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Jump to 2023.... I have been using T-6 Rotella in my 2015 1200 GSA, never a problem, quite shift, quite engine, meets requirements. Also run it on my 83 Honda 1100 GLI and my 2015 Ford 2.7 truck, no issues... BMW at 34,000, GL at 88,000, Ford at 136,000 miles.
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I also use T6 in my '09 R1200GS. For the oil filter I use a Purolator L10241 that I can buy locally at any automotive or farm store.
Jump to 2023.... I have been using T-6 Rotella in my 2015 1200 GSA, never a problem, quite shift, quite engine, meets requirements. Also run it on my 83 Honda 1100 GLI and my 2015 Ford 2.7 truck, no issues... BMW at 34,000, GL at 88,000, Ford at 136,000 miles.
Your 1250 is not a air/oil cooled boxer. T6 might be a good oil for it but not the air/oil cooled boxers.

I also use T6 in my '09 R1200GS. For the oil filter I use a Purolator L10241 that I can buy locally at any automotive or farm store.
You should probably stop using T6 in you Hexhead unless you live in antarctica. 15W-50 or 20W-50 is more appropriate for weather typically seen int he US of A.
I have two gallons on order. Plan on changing the oil to run out to the West Coast in a few weeks!
There are some downsides to long term use of diesel oils. They contain higher levels of zinc & phosphorous, which slowly poison the catalyst and O2 sensor. Probably be 8-10 years / 80k miles before it's notable. They also have different detergents added and higher levels. I've seen claims that this can cause issues, but never anything validated with actual data or even a scientific explanation of why. Rotalla T6 has zinc levels just about where many older car oils had until the EPA mandated that emission equipment had to remain functional for the typical life of a vehicle.

Regarding using 20W vs lower viscocity oils, 20-50 oils have extremely high viscosity at temperatures below 20C or so when compared to 10 and even 15W multiwieght oil. From 4 to 10x higher. They are a bit thicker at high temperatures, but not that much. At 180C they are only around 2x the thickness of 10W-50. Given the huge range oil viscocity goes through from startup temps to running temps, it's close to irrelevent unless you expect to be idling on summer days in Phoenix.

There is a notable penalty when starting with a 20W oil and it's cold outside. If it's close to freezing and you have a weak battery, it's enough to cause a no-start situation.

The viscosity difference between 20-50 and 5-40 at 180C is only 3.8 to 4.8 cS. Hardly worth mentioning.
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Regarding using 20W vs lower viscocity oils, 20-50 oils have extremely high viscosity at temperatures below 20C or so when compared to 10 and even 15W multiwieght oil. From 4 to 10x higher. They are a bit thicker at high temperatures, but not that much. At 180C they are only around 2x the thickness of 10W-50. Given the huge range oil viscocity goes through from startup temps to running temps, it's close to irrelevent unless you expect to be idling on summer days in Phoenix.

There is a notable penalty when starting with a 20W oil and it's cold outside. If it's close to freezing and you have a weak battery, it's enough to cause a no-start situation.

The viscosity difference between 20-50 and 5-40 at 180C is only 3.8 to 4.8 cS. Hardly worth mentioning.
Critical to note what R12X0GS you are talking about when discussing viscosity. Generally 20w50 (no JASO needed) on oil cooled and 5w40 JASO required) for liquid cooled, but just follow the manual.

From my 2007 GSA, lots of options depending on ambient temperature:
Rectangle Font Number Screenshot Parallel

Rectangle Font Parallel Number Screenshot


And if you don’t have a manual:
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