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Discussion Starter #1
I found an interesting video where a mechanic replaced the Universal on the front and rear of the drive shaft of a GS. It was in Spanish so I missed how the u-joint is kept from working its way out. He was doing a triumph tiger at the same time and the triumph has c-clips to hold the u-joint in place. How does ours stay in place and why don’t we or BMW replace the u-joints if the become stiff? It seems to be a cheaper fix than replacing the whole drive shaft. Thanks for your help!

Greg


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On oil cooled bikes there is a c-clip at front on transmission output shaft, no clip on rear as it will float on final drive although there is very little movement. Water cooled bikes may be different.

My opinion is BMW are idiots on serviceability. I'm dumbfounded they think it is acceptable or logical to charge $1200-1400 for a driveshaft, they should just call aftermarket companies and tell them to build shafts. My frustration is even at $800 they'd sell more and have happier customers...just seems terrible business sense. I suppose the sealed/non-serviceable shaft design is cheaper to build.

Sorry for the rant!
 

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To hold the caps over the crosses on the OEM driveshaft there are area that are peened/staked.

You have to grind these area's away to allow the caps to be removed.

If you rebuild you drive shaft one of the more common ways around re-peening or staking is take a small washer that fits into the recess where the cap is and tack weld it.

FWIW the 2007 R1200GS I bought in October when I pulled the driveshaft for inspection I found it was binding ever so slightly in one small area. After looking at the cost of good quality crosses and the limited success rate I order a new driveshaft from Ted Porter. I went with the buy once cry once theory.

DL1.JPG
DL2.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the pictures. I looked at ted Porters but he doesn’t have driveshafts for the WC models. I like the idea of having a grease fitting also.


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Thanks for the pictures. I looked at ted Porters but he doesn’t have driveshafts for the WC models. I like the idea of having a grease fitting also.


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Last I heard there were no aftermarket replacements for the watercooled bikes. Rode with a guy this summer that parked his water boxer GS for a failed driveshaft and was riding a used Triumph Tiger. If I recall the story right he had a lead on someone that was going to start making them so parked the GS til then.
 

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The BeemerShop (Ted Porter) will have them in the next few months. Spoke to Ted a few days ago. He’s hoping the LC driveshafts will go for the same price as the older models ($650), but he won’t know until he gets his final bill.
 

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Look for local place for refurbish of cardans, U joints or so. Two years ago I found close to me and price was not more than $100 with new parts - cross sections with bearings and labor.
Reason for this was, that there is no free movement on one of both axis. It was ready for one workday or so.
 

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Thanks for the pictures. I looked at ted Porters but he doesn’t have driveshafts for the WC models. I like the idea of having a grease fitting also.


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I have been in contact with Ted Porter and he is currently working with a supplier to get a WC drive shaft. A few weeks ago he thought he was about two months from having them available (no parts # or price yet) _ I sense he's frustrated in the delay, when I first contacted him back in October or so I think he expected them sooner.

I have about 75K on my'14 and as I did maintenance this spring prepping for the Butt Lite X (canceled) I found my rear u-joint was very rusty. Condensation, heavy rains, etc. I have a OEM drive shaft coming form Germany that was (about) $850 shipped to my door in Minnesota (should be here soon)

33738531102 BMW Drive Shaft new - KFM-Motorräder (kfm-motorraeder.de)

I am replacing the shaft pro-actively - I'm retired and do long rides in remote areas and having personally known two local bikes that had (rusted) rear u-joints bust in the 90K range - I decide to spend the money now rather than have a roadside "bust more stuff" type failure. (one guy had a lot of housing damage) I do my own work and plan to look for a way to add a drain to the low point once I dig into it. The seals are pretty robust, but are not 100% along with condensation which may effect some riding styles less than others.

btw I was also able to order OEM TPS sensors for $90 each.
 

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'14 R1200 GS Adv "Freya"
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Then best thing owners of WC bikes can do is from day one pull the drive shaft and lube the splines then coat the the driveline with thin layer of grease to keep corrosion at bay.
And most importantly - Seal the Sealing Boots to the swing arm with the appropriate White Lithium Grease to keep the water out.
 

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Yes - I think a rust prevention coating, spline lube, and regular "touch-ups/cleaning"; Sealing the boots; and perhaps a tiny drain hole would address the issue very well. That's my plan going forward after I put in that new shaft.
 
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