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I have no heated gear but a good pair of heated gloves would be first on my list, I don't know of any that get great reviews.
I do wear a cooling vest underneath a mesh Firstgear Adv jacket often in the summer when temps are 100+, I crossed the Mojave several times this past summer with temps in the 120F range and I don;t think that I could have made it without the vest, I'd make stops and use water hose (when I could find one) to literally soak myself and in less than hour even my socks and underwear were dry.
Warm & Safe who make First Gear electric liners also make gloves. I purchased them last week and tried them on 2 different nights with same temps 37 degrees: the night before the gloves arrived, my palms were toasty bcos of the heated grips, which I'd have on high to keep the rest of my mits warm. The second night, I kept the grips on 50% and the rest of my hands were comfortable. Honestly I cannot say that I felt the impact of the glove liners. There was no sensation of the coils, but my hands were discernibly more comfortable with a lower heated grip setting.
 

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In your opinion where exactly would you recommend placing it??
In your opinion where exactly would you recommend placing it??
Here's 3 different locations. In 2 of the 3, the remote is secure so there is no reaching for a moving object. In 2 of the 3, the remote's knobs are facing upwards which is useful. In 2 of the 3, I have looped the cord around something nearby in case the strap used becomes unattached.

Ideally, I wouldn't use a strap that needs to be inserted and looped, but simply clicks into place. While I do prefer the location near the controls on the clutch side, because I have a free hand over there and it's higher in my field of vision so I can keep my head up, I favor the handlebar locations because I will see the remote when I am turning off the ignition, and not forget it.

Apols for the quality of the images.
 

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Warm & Safe who make First Gear electric liners also make gloves. I purchased them last week and tried them on 2 different nights with same temps 37 degrees: the night before the gloves arrived, my palms were toasty bcos of the heated grips, which I'd have on high to keep the rest of my mits warm. The second night, I kept the grips on 50% and the rest of my hands were comfortable. Honestly I cannot say that I felt the impact of the glove liners. There was no sensation of the coils, but my hands were discernibly more comfortable with a lower heated grip setting.
That is about as cold as I ever ride in (37F) and if my hands (mainly fingers) get cold than I no matter what I am miserable from then on out, I may give them gloves a try and see how they do.
I had originally been considering battery powered gloves to eliminate wires and not apply a load on my 2013 GS's electrical system, but after researching it battery powered gloves all have one epic flaw and that is they don't get hot for long.
 

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That is about as cold as I ever ride in (37F) and if my hands (mainly fingers) get cold than I no matter what I am miserable from then on out, I may give them gloves a try and see how they do.
I had originally been considering battery powered gloves to eliminate wires and not apply a load on my 2013 GS's electrical system, but after researching it battery powered gloves all have one epic flaw and that is they don't get hot for long.
The black ice warning illuminates on my dash at 37 degrees which slows me down.

The gloves will have the same connectors on First Gear as Warm & Safe. You can configure them to an independent temp or same as your pant liners and/or jacket liners if you have the dual controller. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Dang it fellas ordered a Medium and it look like i need a large, lol

I'm going to have to send it back for the right size shoot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Here's 3 different locations. In 2 of the 3, the remote is secure so there is no reaching for a moving object. In 2 of the 3, the remote's knobs are facing upwards which is useful. In 2 of the 3, I have looped the cord around something nearby in case the strap used becomes unattached.

Ideally, I wouldn't use a strap that needs to be inserted and looped, but simply clicks into place. While I do prefer the location near the controls on the clutch side, because I have a free hand over there and it's higher in my field of vision so I can keep my head up, I favor the handlebar locations because I will see the remote when I am turning off the ignition, and not forget it.

Apols for the quality of the images.
Awesome thank you Sir I appreciate the pics and the advice
 

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Followup:

REMOTE
Positioning the remote near the controls above the clutch is working out perfectly.

GLOVES
I have switched my configuration from Jacket+Gloves controlled by the red dial on the remote and Pants controlled by the yellow dial on the remote to Jacket by red dial and Pants+Gloves by yellow dial. I found the gloves to warm up more in this setup. It may be because I do not turn the jacket up as warmly as I do the pants. I notice the jacket heat more than I do the pants (thus the above inference).

Here are the diagrams...

Jacket+Gloves controlled by the red dial and Pants controlled by the yellow dial:

http://www.warmnsafe.com/content/warmnsafefile/HookupJGnP9.pdf

Jacket controlled by the red dial and Pants+Gloves controlled by the yellow dial:

http://www.warmnsafe.com/content/warmnsafefile/HookupJnPG12.pdf
 

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Numb fingers

Well, I have heated Gerbing gloves and a Cycle Great Hotwired jacket (+heated grips, of course), but last weekend I went riding in 43F (6C) overcast weather and my fingers became quite numb. (I have something called Reynaud's Syndrome <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raynaud_syndrome> which means my fingers turn white with minimal provocation, perhaps atypical of the rest of you.) Also, I have just a single controller and am running both the jacket and gloves in a parallel circuit through it, which is not optimal, though easy and neat to wire. The jacket was getting quite warm, but I could hardly feel the gloves' heat. I looked for heated moto mittens online, thinking they might be better for me, but couldn't find any. Therefore, I am considering getting, to work with my above-described heated gear, the Wunderlich grip muffs <http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/motorcycle/25200000-004.html> like the motorcycle cops use. I previously tried some cheap muffs, but there are too many buttons on the BMW grips to go by Braile--I need to see what button I am pushing! The Wunderlich's have a clear vinyl viewing window to enable that.
 

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... my fingers became quite numb. (I have something called Reynaud's Syndrome <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raynaud_syndrome> which means my fingers turn white with minimal provocation, perhaps atypical of the rest of you.) .
I've got that problem. I completely understand. Once it's triggered it's hard as hell to shake. It seems to get the worst being wet and cold. So far I haven't sprung for heated gloves. Tight gloves make it easier trigger this condition. I have a old pair of waterproof FirstGear gloves that's a loose fit, gauntlet style. That with heated grips make it tolerable for a 10 mile commute to work.

I recently bought a pair of Merlin gloves with "Outlast Temperature control." They are going back. For whatever reason my hands felt even colder than normal. The trick is a rather loose fitting gloves with layered insulation. The Merlin's didn't have them. They'd likely work better for someone without this condition. I'm looking for gloves that are actually thinner on the palms and thicker on the back on the hands, you know for heated grips. I've Rukka makes a glove that fits this criteria and BMW sells a branded version. Both are $200. To me it's worth it if it works.

It was a nightmare being in a Airborne light infantry division (Travel light, freeze at night). Several years into my enlistment the Army relaxed the standard and allowed commercial gloves. The Army issue was a shell and a wool liner and it was useless.

We used the keyword:
C: Clean clothes, gear.
O: Avoid overdressing. If you sweat you'll get colder.
L: Wear clothes in layers. Dress up or down to suit the level of movement.
D: Keep dry.

Army training. Sir.
 

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I have the same problem (hands get very cold).

I run Warm n Safe heated gloves and they are fine, until the temps drop below 40 F and you have wind chill at speed.

I slip on the Aerostitch Triple Digits Aerostich Triple Digit Covers :: Aerostich Motorcycle Jackets, Suits, Clothing, & Gear over top of the heated gloves.
Get the XL ones. They also are truly waterproof and I use them over my summer gloves when riding in the rsin.
They stop the wind chill and i usually run the controller much lower and need less heat in the gloves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Alright guys I got the jacket back with the correct size this time and tried it out this morning on my way to work. It was only about 50 this morning but I was nice and toasty. Love the new Warm and Safe waterproof liner. At the moment this is where I put the troller....So far it's awesome!

If your on the fence about purchasing an electric jacket, don't wait! Do it!!
 

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Recent trip w Warm & Safe

Drove from New Hope PA to Deerfield MA to Montreal and back to New Hope PA this last week. 1000 miles from Tuesday morning until Thursday afternoon. Temps ranged from 12F on the way up to Montreal to 60F on the way back down.

I wore Uniqlo thin long underwear first layer + Warm & Safe bottoms & top + BMW Enduroguard suit. Pre tests at 17F prior to this trip showed I needed electric gloves and socks and so I wore those too under Revit boots and BMW Enduroguard gloves.

Results:

Down to 25F, everything working largely as planned. Really need to get the right overlap of the layers at the wrist to avoid drafts coming up the sleeve. I wore a terry cloth towel around the neck to avoid drafts; worked fine.

Jacket was run off the red knob of the Warm & Safe remote. Pants gloves and socks off the yellow knob. Having the remote attached to my left mirror really rocks. I really needed to adj the red knob for the jacket heat quite often. Pants socks gloves were at max on the yellow knob the whole ride. Never cold on the yellow knob except ...

13-20F temps are doable though keeping the red knob on max results in slight burns from the jacket. I kept the long underwear on the thin side so that I could feel the heat from the jacket. Do over, I might add a heavier long underwear layer OVER the Warm and Safe to capture the heat better (much as a sleeping back traps heat) between my skin + the thin long underwear and the heavier layer.

Below 13F the cold was unbearable on top and bottom, and I needed to stop and regroup beside a fire. I will try that again, but only after a few tests with alternate configurations where I am not 500 miles from home.

Enduroguard for rain and wind also rocks.

ONE NOTE: I wasn't aware but Montreal (Quebec as a whole) has largely outlawed motorcycles 15 Dec - 15 Mar. Only vehicles with winter tires (snowflakes on the rubber) are allowed on the roads. I was stopped by a friendly policewoman who said this rule doesn't apply to Americans, but that they can fine us $1000 if there is severe winter weather and we are driving on their roads. The rule has been in place 7 years. BMW Motorrad Montreale are a nice group of guys. They installed the BMW communications system in my BMW GS Carbon helmet. I was there for a few hours and not one paying customer came in except me of course.
 

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My wife has allmost allways cold hands, sitting behind me on the Beemer.
Specialy in the morning. So I looked up a few options, on heated gloves.
I didn't liked the wired options, as I am sure that one time she gets off the Beemer,
forgetting about the connected wires.. :surprise:

So I bought for her the Macna heated gloves, they have three settings
low / medium / hot. They are working on these litium/polymere batteries,
and should last for 2 up to 6 hours (low heating).

Now what I am going to do is the following... :wink2:
I allready ordered an extra pair of these so called Li Po batteries: 7.4V /2200ma
These I am going to charge in the Beemer, so everytime the gloves runs out of power,
we simply change the batteries for a fully charged pair.
The empty batteries goes back onto the charger in the Beemer :D
 

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For those running the full compliment (jacket, gloves, pants liner & socks) of Warm N Safe heated gear,
I would suggest that you buy a second remote controller.

Run jacket (Red) and Gloves (Yellow) on one controller
Run Pants liner (Red) and socks (Yellow) on the other.

Each part of the body will require an different amount of heat to be comfortable. With 2 controllers, you can adjust the amount of heat you need for each item as needed.

I mount my controllers on my clutch and front brake reservoirs using 3M Dual Lock Fasteners.
Mounted there, both controllers are easily reached by left hand.

My hands get cold very fast and in lowers temps and the heated gloves on high don't do the job when there is a cross wind on the backs of my hands.

I that case, I wear Aeostich Triple Digit Rain Gloves (XL size) over my heated gloves to cut the wind chill.
With the rain covers on, hands are very comfortable and glove heat is never run over 1/2 setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I use glove liners that go under riding gloves. Wouldn't that work? No power requirement.
I ended up getting a pair of glove liners but the Warm & Safe heated glove liners. So I now wear my summer GS gloves all the time but in winter wear the liners under them. I'm not so sure just liners alone non-heated would work by them selves or at least not for me but it may work for some people that is a very subjective issue.
 

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The Viking Thread.

In another lifetime I recall riding a Honda 550-4 to work at 28F, in Jeans. Upper body survived but my thighs took three hours to thaw out. Hats off (or better on) to stevedepp for his 12 degree journey.

I can see it though (he says at 78 degrees). Man 'o man to defeat the elements and keep on riding is sweet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
The Viking Thread.

In another lifetime I recall riding a Honda 550-4 to work at 28F, in Jeans. Upper body survived but my thighs took three hours to thaw out. Hats off (or better on) to stevedepp for his 12 degree journey.

I can see it though (he says at 78 degrees). Man 'o man to defeat the elements and keep on riding is sweet.
You are not kidding, I've said it before and I'll say it again, I kick myself for not buying these Warm & Safe products 25 years ago.....

So So So Nice!!!
 

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I am new to the idea of Heated Gear. At 68 yo, I now chill easily on a bike and at home. Reading up on accessing a CanBus based socket to power the heated, so I wrote the following to Warm n Safe today:

"New to heated gear, have 2017 1200 gs lc, soon to install ezCAN. Pls direct me to a link to get fully educated on what I need in order to safely power your (Warm n Safe) gear on my BMW GS LC bike via the roller controller on the handlebar. Thanks in advance!"

The response I received was Warm n Safe's analysis of ezCAN as power feed:
  • Two high-power outputs (10A continuous/25A, max 20 seconds)
  • Two low-power outputs (4A continuous)
Warm n Safe recommendation: "Ok this will not work for heated gear. Nor will the BMW socket port on the bike because it is also too low power. Either wire the port directly to the battery or use our battery harness."

This is beginning to makes sense to me - heated gear will require and suck alot of Amps/Juice to heat my aging bones, so tagging direct into the battery is only alternative. However, anyone out there have any experience to say that Battery-Drawn amps/juice will not confound the BMW GS LC canbus? Is there a better way based on the deep collaborative of wisdom that I am able to be directed toward? Thanks in advance!
 
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