You'll be fine to wire direct to the battery without causing issues for your canbus. This past winter I purchased gear, wireless controller and harness from Gerbing and have been overjoyed at the realization of comfort in colder temps. The amp draw is less than 10 and your charging system can handle it easily. I am riding a '15 GS and my volts bounce between 14.1-14.2 even when powering my gloves, jacket, grip heaters and Denali Aux lights.I am new to the idea of Heated Gear. At 68 yo, I now chill easily on a bike and at home. Reading up on accessing a CanBus based socket to power the heated, so I wrote the following to Warm n Safe today:
"New to heated gear, have 2017 1200 gs lc, soon to install ezCAN. Pls direct me to a link to get fully educated on what I need in order to safely power your (Warm n Safe) gear on my BMW GS LC bike via the roller controller on the handlebar. Thanks in advance!"
The response I received was Warm n Safe's analysis of ezCAN as power feed:
Warm n Safe recommendation: "Ok this will not work for heated gear. Nor will the BMW socket port on the bike because it is also too low power. Either wire the port directly to the battery or use our battery harness."
- Two high-power outputs (10A continuous/25A, max 20 seconds)
- Two low-power outputs (4A continuous)
This is beginning to makes sense to me - heated gear will require and suck alot of Amps/Juice to heat my aging bones, so tagging direct into the battery is only alternative. However, anyone out there have any experience to say that Battery-Drawn amps/juice will not confound the BMW GS LC canbus? Is there a better way based on the deep collaborative of wisdom that I am able to be directed toward? Thanks in advance!
Thanks to finally wiring this gear up I've added 3 more months of riding - it's not even May here in VT and I've already logged 1,500 miles.