Generally, you've done the right things. Valve adjustment and TB sync. On the sync though, make sure both cables have a little slack before you adjust. Also, sync at a speed above idle so the stepper motors don't mess with the idle. Plus, they will always affect idle so sync at 2-3k rpm and that will help.

GS-911 helps some on the sync since you can park the steppers, but syncing above idle gets around that.

The only other thing is the simple reset of the throttle position sensor, but I'm not so sure it will do much in this situation. It helps more with idle in cold, but it is simple and won't hurt a thing. So, turn on ignition, but don't start bike. Smoothly open throttle all the way and close. Do this 3 times. Not fast and not really slow. Turn off ignition, then turn it on and start bike. All this does is tell the computer where full open and closed is. Sometimes that helps with poor idling.

Back to your problem, I helped a guy with the same thing and it took a good valve check and sync to make it go away. One of his throttle cables didn't have enough slack either so that interfered with the sync he did on his own.

 

Generally, you've done the right things. Valve adjustment and TB sync. On the sync though, make sure both cables have a little slack before you adjust. Also, sync at a speed above idle so the stepper motors don't mess with the idle. Plus, they will always affect idle so sync at 2-3k rpm and that will help.

GS-911 helps some on the sync since you can park the steppers, but syncing above idle gets around that.

The only other thing is the simple reset of the throttle position sensor, but I'm not so sure it will do much in this situation. It helps more with idle in cold, but it is simple and won't hurt a thing. So, turn on ignition, but don't start bike. Smoothly open throttle all the way and close. Do this 3 times. Not fast and not really slow. Turn off ignition, then turn it on and start bike. All this does is tell the computer where full open and closed is. Sometimes that helps with poor idling.

Back to your problem, I helped a guy with the same thing and it took a good valve check and sync to make it go away. One of his throttle cables didn't have enough slack either so that interfered with the sync he did on his own.

 

I may look into pulling my throttle cables and lubing them. The bike does have 53k miles on it. It seems odd to me that I suffer this on the hot side of running vs cold.

I'll give the throttle open - close a shot. Can't hurt anything I suppose!

Seeing as it comes and goes for me though sticking cable strikes me as a possibility -- like plastics expanding or shrinking when heated, etc.

I'm curious how hard the cable job is on one of these...

Thanks for the thoughts!

Dave

 

Well, I fired the bike up and it idled perfectly right out of the gate. I was putting my gear on as I spoke with another bike guy at work and it started bucking a bit... raising idle, lowering idle, couple of coughs.

Knowing that it was either going to get me home, or I'd have to tow it, I hopped on and rode it. I have one of those little farkles that sit on the throttle and can hold a position, so I put that in place so that it wouldn't stall -- and I noticed that as I pull my brake, it would raise the idle by 1k... I thought that seems odd. Might just be something to do with me holding the throttle while braking, but not positive.

Got on the highway - did nice smooth riding with no issues... got off the highway -- and zero problems. Back to perfect idle, I can't get it to stall out. Worked great for the next 30 mins of back roads with zero issue.

Dave

 

So, here's another tidbit.

It began stalling again, and I thought perhaps it's fuel related. I've heard the evap canister (charcoal canister) could be the issue, some sort of pressure/vacuum issue.

It stalled, I pulled out the key, popped open the gas cap and fired it back up. I could not get it to stall!

I went home, pulled the charcoal canister, put a cap on the little plastic valve thingie and fired it up for a rip around the block. aaaand it started stalling again.

It seems it's every time I get heavy on the throttle, then it acts up. Still no clue.

Dave

 

The canister is a filter for the air that escapes from the tank when it gets hot. Plus it allows air back in. If no air comes back into the tank then a vacuum forms and the fuel won't flow, hence the stalling. If you plugged the hose that used to go to the canister then you made it worse. It needs to be open to the air.

Over filling the gas tank can cause fuel to fill the canister when the fuel expands in the tank and also cause rough running and stalling.

So it sounds like you are on to the solution, but don't plug the tank vent.

 

Answered your own question




I think you seemed to have sorted it out, and then by accident created exactly the same issue by plugging the return tube.
As stated above the tank needs to "breath" to work properly, the charcoal filter is not fitted on bikes for the Australian market, so we don't get that issue here.

 

stalling issues

There is a procedure to do a "canistorectomy" on a 2005, I've done mine and it's worked fine even overfilled. I'd be sure you followed that.

You've done the standard stuff but the hot vs. cold is a clue that you've got a problem with fuel venting. Have you had the fuel pump gasket recall done? Has the tank been off recently?

 

Sorry for such a late response -- I found the stalling a few days later -- when the plug just fell out of the left air sensor. A bit of a bad design, that it can be there, look right but just not be finally clipped in... clearly I bumped it's little metal clip thing in the woods with my leg, or something.

Well, live n' learn. Unplugged and replugged it in. Been fine for many miles since! I had no dirt/grime in that connection, but clearly it was just not making proper connection.

Dave aka Ghan

 

Trying to picture a left sensor.....

 

Idle Controller

I think he means the plug on the Idle Control device.
I had a similar issue when i accidentally pushed mine out when washing the bike.