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jaxon

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a slight fork seal leak on the left side. I understand it doesn't provide any suspension, but keeping an eye on this. I'd think if it was completely shot it would be an issue with oil leaking around brakes. Best description would be "weeping." This is a 2017 R1200GS.

I asked the dealer about it and it's considered a "maintenance item." I guess it would be, but it seems likely to have manifested after the fork tube recall. That recall was performed about 6 months or so ago. I've mainly been riding roads and an occasional dirt roads, no GS Giant level stuff.

I'd guess the seal wasn't seated properly or was overfilled. Maybe a speck of dirt got in there during the disassembly. Getting the dealer to acknowledge that would be difficult. The right side is fine.

The proper part isn't crazy expensive but higher "because BMW." Kinda wondering if I should tale this on. I have no idea what the dealer would charge, it seems I could do this myself and simply pull that fork tube replace or reseat the existing one on the bike with no great level of disassembly.

Anyone got any thoughts or experience with this? Doesn't seem the failure rate would be so soon, like under a year.

Kinda looks like these are the parts:

31428532723 SET: SET OF SEALING ELEMENTS

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I don't think you should mess with it. I don't buy the "maintenance item" crap. I would wipe it off and watch it for awhile. If it gets worse take it back and ask once more why it isn't covered by the warinty. If they still don't take care of it go to page 5 of the "Consumer Warranty Information" book that came with the bike. It gives a phone number and what they need to move forward.
Let me know if you can't find the book and I'll try to post a picture of the page you need.
 
Seals can last years or go out sooner but they are not covered under warranty unless they leak soon after the bike is purchased.

I replaced the fork seals on my 2013 GSW two weeks ago using the $40 BMW seals and it was a breeze, by far the easiest forks to re-seal that I've ever done, took less than 2 hours taking it slow.

You need a liter of 10W fork oil, I used Maxima cost about $10, each fork takes roughly half a liter (485 ml) or 5 1/4" from the top of the tube.

I was able to remove and replace the seals by hand just using a screwdriver for the snap-ring.
 
A question about seal replacement.

A question for you or others: If your bike has the fork modification, can the seal be removed over the pressed-on fitting at the top?
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Seals can last years or go out sooner but they are not covered under warranty unless they leak soon after the bike is purchased.

I replaced the fork seals on my 2013 GSW two weeks ago using the $40 BMW seals and it was a breeze, by far the easiest forks to re-seal that I've ever done, took less than 2 hours taking it slow.

You need a liter of 10W fork oil, I used Maxima cost about $10, each fork takes roughly half a liter (485 ml) or 5 1/4" from the top of the tube.

I was able to remove and replace the seals by hand just using a screwdriver for the snap-ring.
Thanks. I'm prepping myself for it not being covered by the dealer under warranty even though they did remove them for the recall work. It seems I can remove the tubes in place without totally breaking down the front end. Simply remove them from the top slide them up and replace the inner seal. Might be tricky seating them. I imagine they did something similar adding the "collars." As for the oil I could likely use syringe or mighty vac to remove the oil in there without pulling the front wheel off.
 
You will almost certainly find it easier overall to just remove the front wheel and brake calibers and then slide the forks down and out to do the job.
Regardless if you have the metal collars or the rubber ones it is easiest to leave them in place and do everything from the opposite end, you can protect the seals with just a piece of electrical tape wrapped around the end of the chrome fork tube.
 
Me too

My right fork has seeped a little since new. You can only see seepage when tube gets dirty. Tride
, but no joy. Dealer wouldn't address it when new unless I brought it in dirty with oil seepage showing. I just clean the bike too often. 65K miles and ignore it!
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
Hmmm,

My right fork tube can be turned by hand (not freely), the left one that leaks can't. This is the fork tube that meets the upper tree and stanchion. The nuts spins with it, so it isn't loose. Is this an issue (or am I the issue).

Should I be able to turn it? I suspect not. I do have a appoint this Saturday, no trailer as yet but safe to ride?

Elsewhere it's mentioned this nut is torqued to 40nm. If I don't have to replace it I could loosen it, reapply blue thread lock and re-torque it.

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When the nuts are tightened to 40nM (30ft/lbs) the forks may be able to be rotated but otherwise feel secure.
I would remove the nuts and clean the upper joint link bearings and threads, even though BMW recommends to replace the nuts they can be re-used just apply some blue Loctite.
 
I had the seals on both sides replaced under my 3 year warranty, left side at about 15,000km and right at about 30,000km. Each side was done by different dealers and they were most cooperative about it.
At about 40,000km they replaced the stauntions under the recall - no probs since but only at about 45,000km now.
If you haven’t already I would just go to a different dealer
 
The cold hard truth is that the fork seals are not covered under the BMW factory warranty (neither are the brake pads or clutch disk) but like everything there are exceptions, in this case if they fail relatively quickly and this can be subjective.
They are also covered if the forks need to be disassembled for a repair that otherwise is covered and in the case of the stanchion recall BMW instructed dealers to replace the seals on any bike that came in with leaky seals.
Some dealers also get creative when writing up a warranty ticket that they submit or are willing to risk it to the factory for reimbursement and some dealers won't/aren't.

In my eye the job is so cheap and easy that I wouldn't waste too much time going from dealer to dealer when for $40 and an hour or two you can be done with it...and with the knowledge that person completing the job cares the most about you and your machine.
 
You are saying it manifested soon after the fork tube recoil? What happened was them pulling out the stanchions for refit and just stuffing them back in. BMW workshop manual states that once the stanchion has been pulled out as far as the bleeder hole in the side of it, the fork seal becomes damaged and needs to be replaced. There are only three reasons a fork seal can fail on R1200GS: wear and tear, bent stanchion or worn out bushes that allow radial movement in the fork.
Rotating stanchions are normal, they are not rigidly fitted in the top yoke. This actually helps diagnosing bent stanchion, rotate it by 90 degrees and let it be, if it comes back to it favourite position it's bent.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
You are saying it manifested soon after the fork tube recoil? What happened was them pulling out the stanchions for refit and just stuffing them back in. BMW workshop manual states that once the stanchion has been pulled out as far as the bleeder hole in the side of it, the fork seal becomes damaged and needs to be replaced. There are only three reasons a fork seal can fail on R1200GS: wear and tear, bent stanchion or worn out bushes that allow radial movement in the fork.
Rotating stanchions are normal, they are not rigidly fitted in the top yoke. This actually helps diagnosing bent stanchion, rotate it by 90 degrees and let it be, if it comes back to it favourite position it's bent.
I read this very thing in the Haynes manual.

I'd guess for the sake of speed and brevity they pulled the fork tubes, applied the collar and put it back on when they should have replaced the seals. The dealer will only replace the seals under warranty if they find a defect. I believe it was a contributing factor, however proving this and saying maybe the tech didn't replace the seals has zero traction. I'd bet a few dealers took this shortcut.

This video of the fix, they pulled the fork tube, did not show they replaced the seals.
https://youtu.be/TaGaR9Fn4WE

It may be the tube wasn't bleed of the air properly and notice some days it weeps more than others. That variance of internal and external pressure causing an issue some days more than others. Just a guess.
 
To bleed (vent) air in the forks properly:
Place bike on center-stand and hold in position or use weights on rear rack or seat to keep the front tire off the ground than remove the bleed screws (threaded plugs) and re-install, ideally you should replace the o-rings on the plugs.
 
I know it's an old thread, but I went ahead and did fork seal and fluid replacement and thought I'd leave some details on my process.
I didn't remove the fork and I don't think it's entirely necessary. A syringe get 99% of the old fluid out and a few drops is negligible in my opinion.
Here's the step by step!

Dan's Fork Seal and Fluid Replacement Instructions on a R1200GS

Let me know if you have any questions!
 
When I did my '99 11S I took the fork legs & tube off the bike. After 20 some years those seals were part of the legs & required some extra love to remove. By dismantling everything I was able to flush out the tube & leg of the accumulated mung & drool. New seal install is a breeze, used an appropriately sized socket & gently drove them in.
 
When I did my '99 11S I took the fork legs & tube off the bike. After 20 some years those seals were part of the legs & required some extra love to remove. By dismantling everything I was able to flush out the tube & leg of the accumulated mung & drool. New seal install is a breeze, used an appropriately sized socket & gently drove them in.
An $8 seal puller from Harbor Freight makes seal removal a breeze. To clean out the forks I swish a few ounces of kerosene or naphtha around then dump and let drip out for a minute or two.

While sockets do work as bearing and seal drivers several years ago, I bought a bearing/seal driver kit from HF and glad I did. It just nice to use the right tool for the job and not beat up my sockets when seating bearings.

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