Hi all I am new here and in need of some advice on changing clutch on my 2006 R1200GS 24000 miles - Any hints on what to look out for I am a reasonable home mechanic and have changed clutches on airheads but never a GS. Any advice welcome please.
Change Clutch on 2006 R1200GS
Daveredhunter
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Hi all I am new here and in need of some advice on changing clutch on my 2006 R1200GS 24000 miles - Any hints on what to look out for I am a reasonable home mechanic and have changed clutches on airheads but never a GS. Any advice welcome please.
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Changing at 24K? Wow!
Remove all electrical between the front and rear, unhook the rear sub-frame and, and wheel the end of the bike away. That gives you access to the tranny for the fun part of the job.
These pics were stolen from a report on advrider. Ignore the fact that it is an adventure mode.
Edit: apparently I didn't keep the pics I stole.. sorry.
Remove all electrical between the front and rear, unhook the rear sub-frame and, and wheel the end of the bike away. That gives you access to the tranny for the fun part of the job.
These pics were stolen from a report on advrider. Ignore the fact that it is an adventure mode.
Edit: apparently I didn't keep the pics I stole.. sorry.
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Thanks Marc good pics - 24K wow! Is that good or bad? as this is my first GS and I have never before kept a bike this long before would love to know others opinions Only bike I would change it for would be another GS and mine is only just run in!!! - One other thing - Do I need any specialist tools to remove clutch?
Only bike I would change it for would be another GS and mine is only just run in!!! - One other thing - Do I need any specialist tools to remove clutch?
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24K is wow, too soon. 124K would be more common based upon typical oilhead/hexhead use. Unless there was a spline issue in which case the 75K is a common number.
The dry, car like clutch in the GS and other beemer twins doesn't like slipping. Keeping the clutch in the friction zone is a no-no for clutch longevity. Rough rule-of-thumb: over 2,500 RPM the clutch should be fully engaged.
As for tools... I've not done that job so I really don't know. I'm looking at the RepROM DVD and it doesn't mention much more than a "threaded pin" and a "engine locking device". The locking device is a small wedge that fits between the gears on the flywheel and the case to hold the flywheel in place to loosen the clutch mounting screws. Oh, you also need a way to center the clutch. Don't know how the "threaded pin" is used. The manual doesn't mention the use of guide pins for aligning the transmission. I'd likely make some anyway. M8 x about 110 mm, cut the head off and slot the end.
The dry, car like clutch in the GS and other beemer twins doesn't like slipping. Keeping the clutch in the friction zone is a no-no for clutch longevity. Rough rule-of-thumb: over 2,500 RPM the clutch should be fully engaged.
As for tools... I've not done that job so I really don't know. I'm looking at the RepROM DVD and it doesn't mention much more than a "threaded pin" and a "engine locking device". The locking device is a small wedge that fits between the gears on the flywheel and the case to hold the flywheel in place to loosen the clutch mounting screws. Oh, you also need a way to center the clutch. Don't know how the "threaded pin" is used. The manual doesn't mention the use of guide pins for aligning the transmission. I'd likely make some anyway. M8 x about 110 mm, cut the head off and slot the end.
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Thanks for the info Marc - As the clutch only appears to slip when 2 up I think that I may leave it alone and see how it goes. I may get another 100000 miles out of it in which case it will do for another 10 years!!!
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Some quick things to check:
If you have hand guards make sure they have not rotated a touch such that the guard is touching the end of the clutch, stopping it from becoming fully engaged. That's something that can happen on '05 ~ '07 bikes.
Check the clutch fluid level. As the clutch wears the fluid rises. If it is above the MAX mark the clutch can not fully engage. Pop off the lid (you can make the needed tool out of a wire hanger in about 2 minutes) and dip a corner of a lint-free paper towel into the reservoir to pull up excess mineral oil so that the level is between min and max.
If you have hand guards make sure they have not rotated a touch such that the guard is touching the end of the clutch, stopping it from becoming fully engaged. That's something that can happen on '05 ~ '07 bikes.
Check the clutch fluid level. As the clutch wears the fluid rises. If it is above the MAX mark the clutch can not fully engage. Pop off the lid (you can make the needed tool out of a wire hanger in about 2 minutes) and dip a corner of a lint-free paper towel into the reservoir to pull up excess mineral oil so that the level is between min and max.
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Thanks Marc, I have already checked the hand guards and they are OK but I would not have thought of the fluid level and I will check and let you know
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Have you checked that the clutch slip isn't being caused by oil contamination of the clutch plate? Rear crankshaft oilseal and gearbox oilseal failures are very common on early 1200s.
You can usually tell because the bike stinks after you've ridden it. It's often described as a fishy smell. The other dead giveaway is a trace of oil on the joint between engine casing and gearbox on the offside of the bike.
You can usually tell because the bike stinks after you've ridden it. It's often described as a fishy smell. The other dead giveaway is a trace of oil on the joint between engine casing and gearbox on the offside of the bike.
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