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Swedutch

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R1200GS 2011
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hej to all!
This year i notice my otherwise lovely 2011 r1200gs camhead has a slipping clutch. When in 6th gear, doing 70mph and then full trottle, at approx 6000rpm the clutch slips. I assume this makes sense since around 6000 rpm max power/torque lies.
Its not an urgent issue since most roads are 60mph here, but on the highway its annoying and feels less safe if the bike does not do what you want & expect it to do, while overtaking.
With no visible oil leakage underneath, and clutch fluid being between min and max (though foul-looking), i can only come up to the conclusion it needs replacement of the clutch, and therefore the big operation of splitting the bike. Still a bit bewondered and irritated that German Engineering designed the clutch placement like this, after 100 years of experience...but ok.
The bike has only done like 40k miles. Maybe the previous owner was in a lot of commuting traffic. he was not offroading.

Im not even going to ask a local shop or dealer to fix it since it will be 3000+ dollar, in Sweden. Im having more time than money, so ill do it myself.

My question then, is: since im on a budget, what do you recommend me to buy before opening the bike? just a new clutch plate? maybe the oil-resistant type of clutch plate in case something will leak in the future? I preferrably do not change still good functioning parts. (i get the advantage of doing that, though)

The Haynes manual is on its way, ill guess the clutch plate thickness among other things is in that.
Is there any advice on other parts, like the slave clutch cilinder, or the pressure plate? seals? bolts?

thanks!
 
I won't speak to the "extras" There are plenty of seals and such which you may wish to overlap once in there for your piece of mind. I will challenge your lack of urgency, if you truly had the clutch slip, you should stop operating the bike and start the tear down. Slippage due to clutch disk thickness loss is truly different than slipping the clutch working the bike at slower speeds, rock climbing and such. It can smoke the clutch Extremely quick and if you accomplish that you will have the potential for a much bigger bill replacing the pressure plate and flywheel if they are damaged by excessive heat or metal contact. Right now you can likely split the bike, pick up an disk only, r&r the disk and back on the road for another 40+k. That's cheap miles seeing what I have seen on the price of pressure plates and flywheels. There are likely people here that have much more experience with BMW single plate clutches than I. I do have quite a bit of experience with them and other brands however. I always recommend to friends and family that I replace their bikes hydraulic actuated clutch to replace it again when the fluid is full and show them what i mean. I replace my personal hydraulic driven plates when the same condition is met. I install the clutch new, bleed out the system and set the clutch fluid level to the minimum level. Every general service interval I'll permanent marker refresh a mark on the side of the reservoir of the level, effectively tracking its wear as the fluid gets "fuller" as the disk wears. When it reaches near the max full mark I replace the disc. Countless machines have had driven disks only replaced this way in my garage, none have required any additional parts, none had "substantial" life left on the fiber. Certainly I've replaced a few release bearings and slave cylinders but I would hazard nearly every one of those was proactive based on the mileage/age of the bike as opposed to a physical fault while we had it apart.

I think the best analogy is I've never met a person that deliberately ran their brake pads metal to metal before replacing the pads. Why view the clutch fibers any differently?
 
I rode with a guy in May on a 2008 RT, 289,000 miles on original clutch. I have a tiring buddy that got 110,000 miles out of his 2008 GSA clutch. 40k is

There are a few good lengthy YouTube videos that are pretty comprehensive. I think I’ve posted them here previously on the forum, give the search bar a try.

I’d for sure change the crank seal while you are there.
 
I change anything/everything that is exposed once the transmission is separated from the engine. I understand being on a budget but this is not a time to skimp trying to save a few dollars
 
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