I think the price is fair.
Yeah, I feel that that mileage is a bit high for a 2021 but perhaps it's nothing to worry about.
I think it's still under the 3 year warranty, will look up if it is eligible for 5 year.
I have 31,000 miles on my '22 GSA. It runs like a top, has had all the recalls and service bulletins done, has new tires and HH compound brake pads, a great touring windscreen plus Aeroflow "Aerowings" and a few other goodies that make sport-touring on it a blast. My tires are 90/10 Continental Trail Attack 3 (90/10). The bike has low suspension but with a Sargent normal-height seat...which is between a normal BMW seat and a high one in seat height. Lots of leg room but I can reach the ground and handle the bike on inclines easily. The front of the seat is narrow. I find the height of this bike perfect for my 30" inseam. I'm not an dirt-riding geek, I don't care about extra ground clearance. This bike has ~6" of suspension travel. That's plenty for me. Standard GSA's are very tall indeed. I didn't want that. I don't care if short people can ride standard GSA's. It's asking for trouble if you ride alone where it's hilly on a bike that's really tall for you. You are going to drop it more than a low suspension model. Plus, there's THIS...
...All 1250 GSA's have ½ degree less forward rake than the 1250 GS on the front wheel assembly. The "fork" angle is more vertical on GSA. This, combined with a low suspension, shortens the wheelbase over the stock GS and makes the the low GSA react to steering and lean inputs quicker than the normal GS or GSA. On the normal GSA with its very long travel suspension, the steeper rake shortens the wheelbase to same or near the same as standard GS. When you drop that suspension nearly 2", the more vertical steering angle does a different thing.
I rode a standard GS for 2 weeks in the Swiss and French Alps last September. When I got home, my low suspension GSA felt more "super-moto" than the standard GS I rode over there. I really enjoyed riding my bike again when I got home...The Euro roads were just amazing, but I like the feel of my bike better than that stock GS....and I road the stock one thousands of miles on really challenging Alpine roads. On big, straight roads, the standard is a bit more steady feeling. It also likes fast sweepers, but my low GSA has an agility that can be harnessed to provide a lot of extra cornering options at low and medium speeds. I just love that.
I'm considering getting a 1300 but not until things settle down. Maybe they'll fix the nose by next model year? I'm sure there will be some bugs and updates too. There always are with BMW bikes. More accessories, (like some panniers!) will be available by then too, both from BMW and the aftermarket.
I wonder how a 1300 is going to look with Mosco Moto textile panniers or aluminum boxes on it? I'm sure the Vario panniers will look quite dashing if they can get the electric locks working right. That or some other glitch is holding them up or they'd be on the configurator already.
I don't know how many miles my 1250 GSA will have on it when all that remaining 1300 development finally happens. Until then, my 1250 will get the best of care mechanically. It won't see rugged BDR-type rides either. I take it EZ camping. I'll take the odd unpaved road if Garmin screws me up, rather than back-track to a paved route. I don't, however, plan full-day trips full of dusty trails and gnarly hills on purpose. I prefer my gnarly hills paved.
It'll live in my climate-controlled garage and I'd guess the average riding day will stay at around 220 miles. Some days are 50 miles, some days are 600. A lot, like today, are 200 or a bit more on mostly non-interstate roads, as curvy as possible. Since retirement, I've purposely added an hour or so to my short rides and a day or so each way to my long rides to make them slower and a lot more interesting. I had 4 RTs before this and I've done my share of mega-mile traversing at blistering velocity. There's a lot more pleasure to be derived from taking little technical roads you've never seen before. I love that!
The 1250 gets top-tier or major-band premium fuel, 93 in my state and when I can get it. It gets correct-spec full synth oil on-time or early. Final-drive oil is changed on schedule (12K). The driveshaft spline is inspected and lubed regularly with that expensive goo, just to be safe. The brakes, and valves are inspected every 12K. Brake fluid changes are done every 2 years at the dealer as are all updates and recall / technical bulletin work. I just had them change all my brake fluid. Although I've not yet owned the bike for 2 years, it was filled with fluid at the factory. That was 2 years ago according the mfg date. I align the cams and the ignition sensor ring myself with special tools I bought. I check and adjust the valves and have a shim set for it. (So far, no adjustment has been needed.) I change spark plugs and air and oil filters to the factory schedule. I mount and balance my tires with a No-Mar set-up. All service is documented. I save receipts for my supplies and include tire changes in my records.
A bike kept the way I keep mine is worth the money. It's as good as a new bike but with a lot of aftermarket bits carefully selected and sometimes re-selected. I've tried 5 windscreens, 3 different seats and 2 kinds of bar-baks before deciding on the setup I'm using now. I think it's very good. I've considered a Russel Day-Long for the bike, but I think they look clunky and I like to move around on my bike when I'm doing my thing in the corners. Sargent has always allowed this and worked well for me. The Sargent for this bike is harder than any before, but I've adjusted to it and can ride all day without soreness. I tried the stock seat...too soft...and the Wunderlich...too hard for me but beautifully made. There are a couple newer brands that look enticing. Maybe I'll try one if I keep this bike a few more years?
Most bikes get a harder life than mine does. Some are stored outdoors under a tarp or in a shed. Some are left in the sun every day. Sometimes, their oil changes get delayed or the spark plugs don't get changed. Some owners do their own maintenance but without torque wrenches. The right oil, chemically clean, is allows an engine to last 300,000 miles. The wrong oil, left neglected, allows an engine to last 60,000. Go-faster engine mods can make leaks in the air intake system. Intakes with tears in them or signs of a leak would tell me to walk away from a used bike. Aftermarket filters that clean "better" in a lab sometimes don't fit in the bike perfectly and so leak dirty air into the bike around the edges causing premature cylinder and valve wear. Paper German-made filters by OE vendors for me. They fit.
These modern, tech-laden bikes people often complain about shut themselves off if they are inverted. ...Brilliant! There's less danger of hidden engine damage from spills. This seldom talked about feature saves engines from spinning with dry bearings. If a GS has some scratches from being dumped, it's not an indication that the bike is junk. One used to have to worry that the rider left his bike running while the oil pump sucked air after a spill. Those days are thankfully gone.
Very dirty oil in the oil window might be a bad sign. Leaks around the seams of the block might signal over-filling of oil and maintenance by people who don't read manuals. Also look for excess oil in the air-box. Not the end of the world, but shows you the owner's level of understanding of his motorcycle.
Lack of maintenance records might be a bad sign. A crunchy feeling in the bars when you turn the front wheel while bike is on the center stand is a bad sign. Spoked wheels that aren't straight, alloy rims that are dented, lots of sun damage or just spider webs from neglect might be bad signs. Look for bent frames or alignment problems. If a bike has been stored a long time, check the color of the oil in the window. If it's dirty, walk away.
A GS with a scraped elbow or two isn't a big deal though. Miles on a well-maintained BMW are also not a sign that the bike is worn out. They're made to work for a long time but they require good care.
Rubber and plastic bits can get oxidized in the sun. Usually that's not a functional problem, but it can mean that some things should be replaced before they fail. Old tires? Of course, budget immediate replacements.
Shocks are a concern. Rebuilt or rebuildable shocks on a higher mileage bike would be a big plus, I'd say. Shows the owner cared enough about that sort of thing to do something about it. Good aftermarket shocks, well set-up, are dreamy to ride on. The stock ESA shocks are terrific, but they do start to damp less with extended miles. It's noticeable in the rear. I'm getting near a point where I'll want to do something. I'll be looking at suspension options this winter. Maybe I'll trade my bike if the 1300 looks good to me? Or, if not, perhaps I'll get some Tractive or other good shock solution for next season instead? I will talk to Beemerworks when I'm ready. Previous experience tells me they are the guys to go to for this stuff.
Whether I'll get aftermarket shocks will depend on how the new bike looks to me. I can afford one, but will it really be better for me?
Will I have to buy all-new special tools to maintain the new engine? (probably). Will the tools be available so early after release? (probably not, maybe never?)
A huge factor for my decision of whether to get a 1300 will be availability of maintenance tools and instructions. If I have to rely on the dealer exclusively, I may as well buy a Ducati 4-valve. A big advantage to a BMW is that the heads are right out on the side so maintenance is a lot more do-able. If BMW decides to hide maintenance information from their customers, I'm just as well off with a KTM or Duc. I enjoy doing the work on my bike. This should not be kept from owners. There's a law in the US but apparently it's not being enforced? I don't really understand why so many laws in the US are not enforced these days....but that's another story.
