Give the seat a smack while trying to turn the key counterclockwise. Known issue to sometimes be stubborn to unlatch.

 

I too have has a seat stick. It usually because one of the engagement hook has broken free on the tab that pushes on them had broken and will not actuate the hooks to release.

If you can get the pillion seat off, gently pry up the back of the rider seat to see if you can locate the hooks. Get a wires and loop i around the hooks then pushing the back of the seat down while pulling the wires backwards to pull the hooks off the securing bar on the seat.

Once the seat is off use the key to actuate the seat release while holding the tabs and/or paddles to see what has broken free. Then make the necessary repairs

 

Thanks for your responses. This happened before and smacking it did nothing. When the key is turned it is not moving the actuator that releases the bar.
A pic from above with the seat off is what I need.
Can any one help?

 

A pic from above with the seat off is what I need.
Can any one help?

Here is a video, figured that would be more helpful.

 

Kron,
Thank you very much,

Matt

 

Probably operator error.

 

What does that mean? Why comment without providing a solution?

May you never be in need with that attitude!

please don’t comment on my posts in the future. I have no use for you!

 

A note to the OP, sometimes the seat pan just gets twisted up such that it traps the hooks no matter what. Mine was that way. I had to jump on it with all my weight to finally get it off. After carefully cleaning / lubing everything and checking that the hooks retracted correctly I put the seat on only to have it instantly lock up again.

When I installed a new Sargent seat the problem dissapeared.

PM14's suggestion to remove the rear seat first and then pry up the back of the main seat to access the hooks is the best way to get impossible seats off. It's how I got my seat off the second time.

 

Thank you

 

Following that thread, I realised that nobody sent what you requested. I got out and took pictures on my 2009GS (probably very similar to your 2007)

Seat removed

From the side

Not much space to insert a tool with the seat in place

From the other, maybe, there is a 'paddle' that moves the clamps just like on the key side

 

Thank you sir! That is exactly what I needed.
I’m trying to snake a bent coat hanger in there to activate the lever that pulls the hook away from the bar. I’ve done it before but I had a reference next to me 😉

 

Maybe too steep to pull with wire/hanger/etc.

It might be easier from the opposite side. I just tried on my bike and I could release the seat just with my small finger pressing on the plate where it is in the picture. I suppose that a stuck seat might need more pressure, I would try with an old screwdriver, with a 90 degrees bend about 2" from the tip.

Once your seat will be off, make sure the 'latches' are not bent or twisted, my seat was hard to remove until I straigthened them.

That made me realise that the seat lock is not secure AT ALL... I can really remove the seat with one finger, once removed, I can push the latch and take the rear seat off...

 

Push down here

 

Made a tool. Worked great.
Thank you for all the responses

now to fix the issue permanently but I’ll keep the tool just in case 😉

 

Looks like I have a big gap between the 2. (That’s what she said)

 

This is with the key turned all the way to the left. Has anyone else made a mod to get the end bigger to actually depress it enough to release the seat?

 

This is with the key turned all the way to the left. Has anyone else made a mod to get the end bigger to actually depress it enough to release the seat?

Watch the video in post #5 again and compare to your bike.

Is your metal latch moving at all? Seems like the plastic pawl the key is connected to is not properly engaging the metal latch assembly.

 

Went out for more pict. Look like the pin on your bike is resting too far from the 'paddle'. Before making it bigger, I'd look carefully and make sure nothing is bent. Also, check for misalignement of the gray plastic cover (what you see after removing the passenger seat) the key cylinder is attached to it, if it's too high, the pin will be also too high above the 'paddle'

The gap on my bike

 

That aluminum pin that pushes against the stamped steel lever should be in the position shown when the key is out of the lock.

The gap you have means that either the steel tab on the frame that holds the front of the lock assembly is bent up or the screw is backed out / missing. If both of those are OK, the lock mechanism has failed and allowed the arm to rotate on it's axis. Might try and grab that pin and see if it moves when the key is out of the lock.

Check the screw and metal tab on the frame. It's the pan head Torx in the picture below. The tab under the screw should be welded to the frame and stick out pretty much flat with respect to the ground.

For future reference, this is identical all the way to the last of the oil cooled bikes (2012, 2013 GSA).

The finger bypass 20-100 shows also works. If your finger is long enough. Might just bend up a tool for future use unless I can find something off the shelf that works.