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r1200gs lc strange clutch behavior

11K views 17 replies 10 participants last post by  bosnjo  
#1 ·
Hello, I am wondering about strange clutch behavior. I am noticing different engagement points of my r1200gs `14 (37Kmiles). Normally clutch engages after releasing around 2 thirds of clutch lever.
In some situations clutch engages when lever is nearly 1-2 centimeters from the handlebar. I have noticed this situation when pushing the clutch while closing throttle. e.g. when pushing clutch while closing, it has like huge freeplay and it engages very close to the handlebar.
However, when pushing clutch while accelerating or keeping revs stable, then clutch works as normal.
I am wondering, is that a "special feature" of new wet clutch, or it is clear that something is wearing out and need to be replaced. any advice appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Inconsistent clutch engagement is my number one complaint with my '13 GS. BMW did make some clutch related changes, but I don't know if those changed effected this issue.

For one thing clutch engagement varies with engine temperature. When cold the clutch engages with the lever close to the bar. When hot the clutch engages almost at the end of its travel. There may be other things that cause the engagement point to shift.

My bike has done this since new. I don't think it has anything to do with clutch wear.
 
#3 ·
Clutch

My 13 GS has had strange clutch behavior since day one! It has never been as dramatic as what
you describe. I frequently notice the clutch lever "move out" as there is a change in throttle.
I have never experienced that before this bike. I finally got the answer a couple of months ago
when I read an article about slipper clutches in one of the major motorcycle mags. It is "normal"
behavior for a slipper clutch and apparently the GS has one. Feel free to correct me on that the
slipper clutch if I am wrong, but it does explain word for word the behavior of my clutch.

Jim
 
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#6 ·
Thanks for reporting the spam posts. I don't get around to reading every thread and count on those reports to clean it up.

Wes
 
#8 ·
I'm on here pretty much every day, usually multiple times and Krons has jumped in as a Mod. It takes a few days to learn the ins and outs of the moderator tools and we're all still learning so don't hesitate to report anything you see that takes away from the enjoyment of the forums.

Wes
 
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#10 ·
I don't know how old your bike is but changing clutch fluid is always first step to go. If the bike is more then 4-5 years old, I'd definitely change the fluid. Just make sure to do it proper way then after a month or two it'd need bleeding to purge any air that may get trapped during fluid change.
After owning more the 20 bikes I can say that 90% of problems I had with hydraulic clutches was solved by changing fluid. Only one time I've forgotten to bleed it some time after fluid change and 6 months later I lost the clutch completely. Did a proper bleeding and the problem was solved.
 
#13 ·
I am neither quite happy with the way my clutch functions: the feeling of when the clutch “grips » is very vague.
I open the throttle a bit and let the lever slowly go and I notice that the bike pulls forward at a certain point, but I cannot feel the clutch disks connecting .
I purchased the 2017 TRIPLE BLACK a few months ago with a mere 6000 KMS ( 3.800 Miles) on the clock.
It got serviced every year, however.
Wouldn’t the brake fluid have been replaced in the meantime as part of the yearly service ?
 
#14 ·
Brake fluid is part of scheduled service. First change after one year and then every two years. But, clutch fluid is not.
BMW claims their clutch fluid is not serviceable, meaning you're not supposed to change it, ever.
For me it's lot of BS as I've seen the fluid coming out of 5-6 years old BMW clutch and it was very dirty.
And then this, look at the color of the fluid removed from 10 years old GS in this video:

 
#17 ·
Thans, Bosnjo !
I removed the cover of the clutch fluid reservoir this afternoon.
While loosening the 4 bolts some oil started seeping out .
This is what the visual aspect and its level look like.
I don’t know if this is the required amount of the fluid , which looked clean to me.

29442
 
#18 ·
There should be one mark inside the reservoir for the fluid level.
Yes, your fluid looks very clean. I don't think it needs replacing. But I'd suggest bleeding as your next step, as you may have some air in the system. And let's hope it's the air in the system because it'd be "easy fix". If there was no air then it may be something more serious / expensive.