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R1200GS Servo-Extomy

7K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  PerazziMx14  
#1 ·
Bought another GS last week knowing the iABS/Serv assist pump was failed. New pumps are $3,000 and these are not rebuildable...well they are but its around $1,500 - $2,000 with shipping and insurance to and from Europe and about 8 weeks to have the repair. So the servo-ectomy it is. Sure it abandons the ABS but these bikes actually ABS was an option. There were available w/o so I'm just going back to its roots.

3/16" brake line - about $0.03 worth
Bubble flare tool - $19 at HF
2 hours and 2 minutes of your time


Remove the tank and expose the servo pump. pull the hairpin clips so you can pull the rigid brake lines


Pull the filter screen out of the pump


Suck out all the brake fluid you can



Undo the upper bake line fitting at the jumper on the right side of the head stock



Old rigid brake lines removed and new jumper (I had the jumper already made.)



Install the jumper in the crossover fitting and snug. Front circuit is now bypasses



A piece of tape over the opening where the old rigid brake line was



Put the old rubber boot back over the tape to seal off the pump



Undo the hairpin clip for the rear circuit



Undo the rigid brake line at the rear master cylinder and remove the old rigid brakes line. You will have to cut the one in the middle to get it out.



Now onto the rear jumper. Since BMW uses a special fitting here, we need to harvest one end of an old brake line and then bubble flare the other to make a jumper/adapter



Rear jumper bubble flared and ready for final tweaking/fitting to get it just right



Rear jumper installed


Bleed the rear caliper and 2 hours and 2 minutes later you're all done and have excellent non-ABS brakes


Some people remove the ABS pump as it does lighten the bike by about 7 pounds but if you do this you will have to remove the "brain box" on the right side and then make a waterproof cover and mounting bracket. If you do not reuse the brain, you will lose brake lights and speedo function. Haining gone through the trouble of removing the ABS pump, making a cover plate and mount its it far easier to abandon the ABS pump in place. Then it is sealed and sturdily mounted, and you retain brake light and speedo functions.

Cheers,

P-14
 
#5 ·
Really appreciate your careful and informative instructions which I was able to complete with little difficulty. Have you run into situations where the one or two of the servo motors want to keep running and refuse to die? Is this a problem and should I consider going back in to remove the pump portion of the ABS assembly? Again, your advice is much appreciated!
 
#6 ·
Really appreciate your careful and informative instructions which I was able to complete with little difficulty. Have you run into situations where the one or two of the servo motors want to keep running and refuse to die? Is this a problem and should I consider going back in to remove the pump portion of the ABS assembly? Again, your advice is much appreciated!
Really appreciate your careful and informative instructions which I was able to complete with little difficulty. Have you run into situations where the one or two of the servo motors want to keep running and refuse to die? Is this a problem and should I consider going back in to remove the pump portion of the ABS assembly? Again, your advice is much appreciated!
I have not had an issue but if the motor(s) continued to run, yes, then you could do one of two things. Separate the brain form the pump controller and make a plate to seal the back of the brain or seperate the brain from the pump unplug the connectors to the motor then remarry the pump and brain and put the assembly back in the bike.

In either instance you'll sever the connection the to the motor which is the ultimate goal. Then it's either make a sealing plate and mount or reuse the existing components.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the feedback! I don't like that these servo components are still energized and drawing power from the battery even after the bike is turned off for a time. It's trying to pressure up even though there's no fluid available. In order to put any issues to rest and so I don't have to listen to the motor whine I'll remove the pump assembly from the brain.

Thanks again for your helpful thoughts and suggestions!!
 
#17 ·
Don't see how to get my speedo back other than buying a very expensive ($329) rear wheel sensor and just hoping that solves the problem. I've decided to go with a GPS speedometer and not think about it so much. It really bugs me to have the speedo not work but it's an older bike and all things considered still a very nice bike. With the servo unit removed the 2005 R1200 GS has great brakes that I can service easily myself and don't have to worry about failing at some point putting me in jeopardy. This makes the third BMW I've owned over the years with ABS systems that don't work. I love BMW bikes but their ABS systems have been a weakness since day one, IMO. I still have a R75/5 which I love for its simplicity, nothing but cables and very basic wiring.

Thanks again to those who've posted some very helpful advice with photos!

R90/6, K75, R1100 RT, R75/5, R1200 GS with servo unit removed
 
#18 ·
Great detailed post PMX14! My first `05 was a factory non-ABServ bike.. the recently acquired `05 came with it and being a very seasoned cyclist, gives me a rather uneasy feeling, and just think it ruins the bike experience. So I came across your post for a 'how to' guide and converted it. I did the removal of the mechanical pump side and plated off the Elect section with an old license plate as dmsantam illustrated. If it wasn't mentioned, removing the instrument cluster cover and black electrical taping the inside of the annoying warning lights is worth the effort.. looks totally stock when done.

For anyone looking for an low miles (11kmi) -excellent condition servo-ABS pump unit, mines available.
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