Can't say from experience as the climate here allows me to ride year round but...some will advise that you change the oil before storing for the winter. Acids and other contaminates in old oil are bad for the engines innards, or so they say. As far as the battery, hook up the tender and leave it in the bike.

Jim

 

Paul Glaves suggest changing the oil if your bike is hibernating for many months. Something about a build up of sulphuric acid affecting your valves. Of course that really depends on how many miles you've put on since the last oil change,

 

+1 on the oil.

 

I've been told to do it both ways. Change and not change the oil. #1 if you change the oil it does get out any dirt, metal and other crap out; however #2 if you do not change till the spring it is easier to start due to oil break down. I've done it both ways and my 1986 Radian runs like a fine oiled machine

 

An oil change before storage is recommended, since certain contaminants are held in suspension by the oil. If left for longer periods of time, these contaminants react with certain metals (e.g. those used for bearings), causing damage. That's the reason most people will tell you to change the oil before laying-up. In theory, if the bike is still regularly started and the oil allowed to completely circulate through the engine, that would also halt the process.

 

In theory, if the bike is still regularly started and the oil allowed to completely circulate through the engine, that would also halt the process.

Not just started, but brought to full operating temperature which means at least a 10 mile ride. Starting a bike, letting it idle for a minure or two, then turning it off will do more harm than good.

// marc

 

Good info above indeed! I just don't see a LOT of damage occuring if you change the oil and don't ride until your season comes back --- even if its a couple months. I recently re-deployed from the sandbox and after a year (with only a couple hundred miles on it over that time) the oil was in relatively good shape. Changed it out and think that the bike runs just as well as I left. Certainly the gas needed to be used up as quick as possible when I returned, but the stabil in the tank had the gas burning fine.

My suggestion is change the oil, drop in the stabil, put it on charge, and put a cover over it if desired. When the season gets better check the tires, give it a good once over looksie, and enjoy!!!

dc in DC

 

Hey, its just a personal opinion, but I don't know about the value of stabil in a fuel injected engine. If its just going to be 3 or 4 months, I don't use it. Carbs are a different thing, there I will use it. At worst with the fuel injected engines I will siphon the gas out of the tank and refill after long storage. You can always blend the old gas in with your car tank and get rid of it that way.

geo

 

Old gas causes just as many problems in a fuel injected engine as on with carbs. The ethanol in some of the gas today makes it even more important to use a fuel stabilizer.

And, yes, change the oil and filter before a long layup. After changing, run just long enough to circulate the fresh oil and shut it off.

Regards,

Barry

 

Thanks for the advice, folks. I'm going to forgo the oil change, only because I just had that done about a month ago, and the bike will be sitting less than 3 months. I'm sure there will be a warm spell or two sometime during that period where I'll be able to take it for a spin. For oil-circulation purposes only, of course.

Oh, and I did speak directly to the dealer regarding the battery issue. He said specifically for the '07 GS, the battery (red/positive contact) needs to be disconnected before the battery tender/trickle charger is attached. Makes sense, as when I hooked it up before disconnection, the tender was kicking in almost every 5 seconds. After disconnection, all ran smoothly. He also recommended 1-amp setting, FYI.

 

Oh, and I did speak directly to the dealer regarding the battery issue. He said specifically for the '07 GS, the battery (red/positive contact) needs to be disconnected before the battery tender/trickle charger is attached.

I'm puzzled as I have an 07 and have been using a Battery Tender Plus attached through a pigtail hardwired to the battery without problems. Did the dealer tell you why the 07 is different ? Thanks,

geo

 

This is a boxer forum, but those who also have K engine bikes (bricks) need to be aware that short running the engines will likely cause the plugs to foul and keep the engine from starting at a later time. One of those BMW quirks that you learn the hard way.

geo

 

Nope, all he asked was what year and model, as if to suggest it was 'OK' to do with some years/models of BMW's.

 

Battery charger info

http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/BMW-charger.html

Right here on your helpful info site. All you need to know.