The oil change interval recommended by BMW (6,000 miles) is probably a little bit conservative as it is. I would suggest that be followed.
There are many very good oils on the market that meet BMW's specs (SAE 5W-40, API SL / JASO MA2).

Motorex is fine, I think Bel-Ray is the best, and Shell Rotella T6 is probably the most popular.

This is a list of suitable oils that I compiled that meet BMW's specifications for the new liquid-cooled machines:

Oils meeting BMW Specifications (API SL, JASO MA2, and 5W-40):

Motul 300V Ester Core
Motul 7100 4T (Ester)
Bel-Ray EXS (Ester)
Bel-Ray Scooter Synthetic Ester Blend 4T
Shell Rotella T6
Motorex Boxer 4T
Motorex PowerSynt 4T (PAO/Ester)
Motorex Top Speed 4T
Spectro Platinum 4
Liqui Moly Racing 4T Synth
BMW Advantec
Castrol Power 1 4T Racing
Silkolene Pro 4 Plus
Silkolene Quad ATV
Ravenol Motobike 4-TAKT Fullsynth (Ester)
Repsol Moto Racing 4T (orange container)
Kawasaki Performance ATV/UTV (semi-syn)
Petronas Syntium Moto 4SP (not sold in the U.S)
Delek Motor Cycle 4T (not sold in U.S)
Eurol Sportbike (not in in U.S)
Elf Scooter4 Maxi City (not sold in the U.S)
Olio Motore 4T Emi (not sold in U.S)
Gulf Syntrac 4T (not sold in the U.S)
Zuminol Double Ester (not sold in the U.S)
Ulei Moto 4T Ipone Full Power Katana (not sold in U.S)
Eurol Sportbike (not sold in U.S)
ER 540 Infinity Energy (not sold in the U.S)
Kroon-Oil Expulsa RR (not sold in the U.S)
Freedom 4T Motorcycle Oil SM (not sold in the U.S)
Rock Oil Synthesis 4 (not sold in the U.S)
Bardahl Racer Fully Syn 4T-N (not sold in the U.S)
Champion Pro Scooter 4T (not sold in the U.S)

There are other viscosity oils that are JASO MA2 and API SL (or higher) out there that are suitable, but I wouldn't recommend straying too far away from the 5W40 weight BMW recommends.

 

The oil change interval recommended by BMW (6,000 miles) is probably a little bit conservative as it is, I would recommend that be followed.
There are many very good oils on the market that meet BMW's specs (SAE 5W-40, API SL / JASO MA2).

Motorex is fine, I think Bel-Ray is the best and Shell Rotella T6 is probably the most popular.

This is a list of suitable oils that I compiled that meet BMW's specifications for the new liquid cooled machines:

Oils meeting BMW Specifications (API SL, JASO MA2 and 5W-40):

Motul 300V Ester Core
Motul 7100 4T (Ester)
Bel-Ray EXS (Ester)
Bel-Ray Scooter Synthetic Ester Blend 4T
Shell Rotella T6
Motorex Boxer 4T
Motorex PowerSynt 4T (PAO/Ester)
Motorex Top Speed 4T
Spectro Platinum 4
Liqui Moly Racing 4T Synth
BMW Advantec
Castrol Power 1 4T Racing
Silkolene Pro 4 Plus
Silkolene Quad ATV
Ravenol Motobike 4-TAKT Fullsynth (Ester)
Repsol Moto Racing 4T (orange container)
Kawasaki Performance ATV/UTV (semi-syn)
Petronas Syntium Moto 4SP (not sold in U.S)
Delek Motor Cycle 4T (not sold in U.S)
Eurol Sportbike (not in in U.S)
Elf Scooter4 Maxi City (not sold in U.S)
Olio Motore 4T Emi (not sold in U.S)
Gulf Syntrac 4T (not sold in U.S)
Zuminol Double Ester (not sold in U.S)
Ulei Moto 4T Ipone Full Power Katana (not sold in U.S)
Eurol Sportbike (not sold in U.S)
ER 540 Infinity Energy (not sold in U.S)
Kroon-Oil Expulsa RR (not sold in U.S)
Freedom 4T Motorcycle Oil SM (not sold in U.S)
Rock Oil Synthesis 4 (not sold in U.S)
Bardahl Racer Fully Syn 4T-N (not sold in U.S)
Champion Pro Scooter 4T (not sold in U.S)

There are other viscosity oils that are JASO MA2 and API SL (or higher) out there that are suitable but I wouldn't recommend straying too far away from the 5W40 weight that BMW recommends.

I have a 2012 R 1200 GS, oil cooled. Dry clutch...can I still use Shell Rotella t6??

 

Are there any Amsoil oils that are approved for this bike?

 

Are there any Amsoil oils approved for this bike?

Amsoil Metric 10W-40 is API SL and JASO MA2 certified. The only thing that may be the issue is that it is 10W-40 and not 5W-40. This probably makes little difference in performance. It just depends on how anal you are.
IMHO it is an excellent oil, but I see no advantage in using it vs. other oils that are 5W-40. There is a reason that BMW specified this weight oil.

 

JETSPEED, thank you, sir! That was most helpful, and I will follow your suggestions. Guess I will make changes about 5,000 - 6.000 miles too. I am a little "anal" when it comes to having my GS presentable and standing at the ready at all times. Know what I mean?

 

Thank you, fortunately from your list there are a wide variety of approved 5w40 oils to chose from.

Thanks again.

 

I use Castrol Power 1 Racing 5w40 and change my oil every 5000klms

 

Is there a reason that you change the oil so often (3100 miles) or just because it feels good?
When using premium synthetic oil like Castrol that is a waste of money.
Many modern motorcycles have 10,000 mile (16,000km) oil change intervals.

 

Idiosyncrasies....how dare you.

 

As long as this subject has drifted from it's original topic let me add this story:

A friend has been riding beemers since the /2 days. The oil change interval for that bike was 1200 miles but most stretched it out to 1500. To this day he still changes oil every 1500 miles even though he now (mostly) rides an RT. When asked why he mentions that he's never had an oil related failure. He is deaf to comments that those who change at 6K miles also don't have oil related failures.

People do what they want to do. I'm sure I have some idiosyncrasies, too

 

It is an interesting discussion and many people may not realize that old BMW /2 (slash 2) back in the 50's and 60's from the R50 to the R69 held about 2 quarts of engine oil, had no oil filter and required service every 1,000-1,500 miles, they did have kind of a quasi filter called a slinger that required cleaning every so often but it was a difficult job that typically required removing the engine and special tools.
Engine oil performance and quality back in those days was also abysmal.
I can certainly see why your friend is the way he is.

 

BMW-MOA oil offer

Guys,

If I may be allowed to digress, have any of you tried the "Buy 3 get 1 free liter" program offered to MOA mebers via the BMW dealerships?

The reason I ask is that not all dealers are participating.

Thanks,

Mark

 

The MOA "Buy 3 get 1 free liter" special is only a good deal for those that use the BMW Advantec oil, I think that most owners who do their own maintenance use other brands.
I use (I don't endorse its use though) Shell Rotella T6 that I buy for less than $20 per gallon shipped to my door, the BMW Advantec oil is $15-20 a liter at the dealer which is a bit pricey even after getting one for free.

 

Every 5000 km for me

I am on my 4th GS, and i have always changed my oil at half of the recommended intervals. I do an oil filter and fresh oil every 5000 km.

I run a 15W50 semi synthetic, from Gulf Western in Sydney, and never have to top up between changes.

I do this simply because it cost me about AUS$35 all up. I buy my oil direct from the wholesaler at 20 litres for AUS$77 delivered.
Gotta be the cheapest preventative maintenance you can do for your engine.

That applies to all my engines. Half the manufactures recommendation.

 

I am on my 4th GS, and i have always changed my oil at half of the recommended intervals. I do an oil filter and fresh oil every 5000 km.

I run a 15W50 semi synthetic, from Gulf Western in Sydney, and never have to top up between changes.

I do this simply because it cost me about AUS$35 all up. I buy my oil direct from the wholesaler at 20 litres for AUS$77 delivered.
Gotta be the cheapest preventative maintenance you can do for your engine.

That applies to all my engines. Half the manufactures recommendation.

Exactly, it's easy and cheap enough so I change at half the recommended interval too.

 

I had not realized that there were many who preferred to change the oil at half intervals, me and most of the guys I ride with would much rather oil change interval were extended as it never fails that you need to stop for an oil change midway during the course of a long trip.

I can complete an oil change for about $30 ($20 for a gallon of Rotella T6 and $10 for a Hiflo HF160 filter) but the oil usually still looks very clean at around 3,000 miles, in fact I think I have about 2,900 on the oil in my bike now I'll post a photo when I'm able.
I'm not preaching against changing the oil sooner than recommended but I do wonder if it does any good or even more harm than good as new oil filters take a second or two to refill on initial start-up after being changed, I always cringe when hitting the start button after an oil change knowing that I have zero oil pressure until the filter fills.

 

i dontt fire it up





Its not so bad if i am checking plugs as well, because i crank it over with no plugs in it when i have changed the oil.
When the plugs are still in, i hit the starter button a few times just enough to turn the motor over, but not fire up. That will pressurize the oil feed and fill the filter, then i crank it up.
It takes maybe 2 - 3 seconds to come up to pressure, and i doubt it is doing too much harm in that time.

 

Luv the T6 oil,I use it in my Zuk..just running Dino oil in my 07 dry clutch..been advised by many to stick with it it saying it works better and lasts the full cycle...I've changed it twice this summer at 5000 kms
With no top ups necesary..I was tempted to drop the T6 into the GS last change,but not clear if the wet clutch compatible oils would make any difference in my dry clutch 07.. It's only a couple bux more

Thoughts ?

 

Oils that are suitable for wet-clutch motorcycles can be used in dry-clutch bikes without any problem.
BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 6,000 miles (10,000 km) to allow for proper engine break-in.
I ran Mobil-1 15W-50 in my hexhead with great results, I know people that run T6 in their hexheads as well with no complaints.

 

I am an irregular changer of my oil. Often I will start on a trip with fresh oil and will wait till I get home before changing it which can be 8 or even 10K miles. I hate paying $250 for a change as much as laying in a parking lot doing a change. Have always done it this way with my BMW bikes, (I'm on #5) and never had an engine issue, I also keep my bikes till they hit 100K miles. I can't say the same when I put synthetic into my then new "74 Volvo.

 

I do the same. I'm currently halfway through a coast to coast run on my '04. I started with fresh oil a couple of weeks ago, and expect the oil level will still be in the window when I get home. I reason that 12-1300 km days are much easier on oil than normal short hop riding with many thermal cycles.

 

As stated by others with oil/air cooled boxers I put oil in the filter and install...question...is it possible with the water boxer motor to partially fill the filter and install without oil going everywhere....has anyone tried this??....I will try at next change with tin foil around header and pan under to catch spillage.

 

You would have to lay the LC bike on its right side completely horizontally to be able to keep the oil in the filter while spinning it on, probably not worth the hassle in the overall scheme of things.

I use a piece of box like from a 12 pack of Coke and cut it so it acts like a canal to keep the oil off the header and get it into the drain pan with no muss no fuss.

 

i too plann to change the oil myself,

how and where do we get the oil filler key from ?

i dont remember it coming with my bike, i have MY16, i got it new.

 

Under the seat is a small collection of tools, one of the items fits into the slot of the filler plug and you use the blade of the screw driver to turn the tool and remove the plug, same as installing.

 

Jetspeed...I have used cardboard and sheets of plastic(cookie sheets) to protect the headers during oil changes...Aluminum foil works the best because it is moldable...wrap around the header sensor / build a trough etc...and then throw away....I will still experiment to see how close to horizontal the filter will be before dropping oil...worth a try.

 

I will still experiment to see how close to horizontal the filter will be before dropping oil...worth a try.

It's REALLY horizontal. If I had to guess, I'd say 0 degrees to horizontal...I don't think it would hold more than a teaspoon without the oil running out.
What you could try is after draining the oil on the centerstand, putting her on the sidestand. You could probably put somewhat more oil in the filter without spilling, but I really don't think it would be a signifiacnt amount.
The filters--depending on whether you use OEM or aftermarket, like a Mobil 102 (think that's the number) only hold about 75cc, so you're not going to have much in there even if you try the sidestand.

Unless the laws of physics are suspended, I think you're looking at a frustrating mess.

T6 here, btw. ONe thing I really like about it, the T6 in the gallon jug, is that the gallon measure jug can be totally poured into the engine at refill and be right on the mark. IOW no necessity to measure along the way.

 

I have used Amsoil in all my bikes for the last 13 years with no problem. For an ester based synthetic, it's a great deal. For the Gs I stick to 10000km intervals.

 

I don't believe that Amzoil is an actual ester based oil, PAO (Group 4) at best but more than likely a combination of Group 3 and 4 base oils, not that it isn't a good product.

 

Let me share a story.....


About 4 years ago, I was a Kawasaki test rider for the new KLR. I was given the bike to keep for a full year to flog, draw some conclusions and write about them. An additional manufacturer decided to enter the testing and fray.....a oil blending company. They had just released a new 100% synthetic 10w40 and wanted a lot of real life use and lab testing. I obliged......

Here is what I learned..... The operators manuals for 2500 and 3500 pick up trucks are spot on. They provide standard service intervals and severe service intervals. And there is good reason. If a truck is being operated in high heat, lots of dust and pulling heavy loads, it needs attention much more often than a truck that never pulls a trailer and runs down the highway.

We should apply this wisdom and logic to our service intervals on our motorcycles.

The first 3,000 miles on the KLR were nearly all highway, with a lot of easy cruising. The next 1,500 miles were 7 days of my riding, pushing the bike off-road with a heavy load through some of the toughest trail that Colorado could throw at it. High mountain pass climbs pushed the engine temps to their limits and tested the clutch.

At the 3,000 mile OCI, the oil was solid in its viscosity and additives and TBN. It looked like nearly new oil.

We dumped that run of oil and did a fresh change for the trip. Upon coming home from the off-road trip and 1,500 miles later, the oil was dumped and tested and it was a disaster. 40wt had dropped to 20wt and there was little TBN left.

Same bike....same oil....same filter..... amazingly different results based upon riding conditions.

6 months later, just to test.... I did a similar trip as the 1,500 mile off-road, but ran Shell Rotella T6 5w40 Synthetic. (Because this has always been my 'go to' oil for nearly everything.) And the results were similar. Viscosity dropped to a high 20wt and the oil was thrashed. The next run....I went 5,000 miles on the Rotella T6, of mostly pavement and dirt road cruisers......and the oil tested out great.

Fellas....its all about riding style and riding conditions as to when someone should change their oil.

Granted.....its about the bike as well. If the bike has a wet clutch and shared sump with the tranny, the oil will go faster. On my 2005 GS and with my previously owned 2004 RT with a dry clutch and separate transmission sump......the bikes are very, very easy on oil and I have no issues going 6-8k miles on top shelf synthetic......and if I had to run 10k, I would not fret.


But when I ride my KTM 950 or my Yamaha WR426 in harsh conditions, they sometimes get an oil change at the 500-1,000 mile mark.

Just my two cents......

 

I know this is an old thread but I'm coming up on an oil change on my new to me 2014 GS and I had been using Mobil 1 4t on my Tiger 800XRx. Is this acceptable to use on the R1200GS? I see MA2 as an oil spec and I know the Mobil 1 is MA. Any thoughts?

 

Two problems with Mobil 1 oils and the liquid cooled GS motor is that Mobil 1 does not make the specified viscosity (5W-40) nor is the oil MA2 certified, the use of Mobil 1 10W40 4T for instance will probably have no adverse effect on the motor but if you are still under warranty it may cause problems with a claim if it should arise, another reason to use an oil with the exact specifications is that they are readily available and some are even very inexpensive.

While there are plenty of analogies of the lack of oil related engine failures there are plenty of other factors that using the wrong spec'd or poor quality oil can effect for instance; these BMW bikes are more like a car in terms of longevity and oil plays a role in the service life, the transmission is also lubricated by engine oil which has an effect on shift quality and longevity as well, I have around 50k miles on my 2013 and at first used Castrol Power 1 oil as recommended by BMW, I later switched to Shell Rotella T6 and noticed an improvement in shift quality, the last oil change I used Bel-Ray EXS full ester and can feel an even more significant improvement in the transmissions operation along with a smoother and quieter engine, I can't say for certain how any of these oils will do in the long run but I can't help but think that oils that make the engine/transmission run seemingly better/smoother may actually offer better lubrication as well.

With that said you could probably dump in the cheapest straight 30W dino oil you could find and run it 10,000+ miles per change and have your GS last a good long time.

 

Thoughts?

I'm not an oil engineer. I don't the the differences between MA and MA2. I couldn't tell you if it makes and difference or not. My book calls for SAE 5W-40 API SL JASO MA2. So I buy the cheapest name brand SAE 5W-40 API SL JASO MA2 I can find. I've not heard of an engine failure due to oil quality in a long time. That makes it easy to not obsess over oil.

 

Sale on Castrol 5W40 JASO MA2

I came across this sale while browsing on Amazon and ordered a case. Be sure to click on the $10 coupon box.

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-0611...le/dp/B008MISDII/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481212899&sr=8-3&keywords=castrol+5w40

 

This is a good deal

I came across this sale while browsing on Amazon and ordered a case. Be sure to click on the $10 coupon box.

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-0611...le/dp/B008MISDII/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481212899&sr=8-3&keywords=castrol+5w40

That's a good deal!

I have been using Amsoil in my H*rl*y-D*vids*on, but that thing runs so hot it's a virtual oil torture chamber. The other one is a AMF era shovelhead (all stock!) that wants SAE-60 oil, and Amsoil makes that, I use it. The R-bikes don't run that hot at all, so using a more pedantic brand of oil should be okay. The HexHead RT gets Castrol Actevo, lots of miles, 5000 mile oil changes, no issues. It's a Semi synthetic and a very good value.

My oil change intervals are the manufacturers recommended times/mileage.

Way back when I worked at a dealership as a wrench, we had tons of bikes through the shop, and I can honestly say the only oil related engine damage I saw was when the oil that was supposed to have been on a surface in the engine wasn't. Popular bikes were oil injected two strokes, Kawasaki, Yamaha and Suzuki. The oil tank would run dry the owner never checked it and didn't notice, then the engine would seize up. Some riders would run their four stroke bikes completely out of oil, we are talking 15,000 freeway miles on a 350, no service ever, the lack of oil would cause engine destruction. When I took the engine apart the oil had turned to a black un pumpable black goop in the bottom of the crankcase. These are examples of extreme neglect.

Penzoil back then had a nasty habit of foaming up with air if the engine was run at very high RPM's for an extended time, the oil pump would cavatate and stop delivering oil to the top of the engine. Very bad outcome. Also there was a very early brand of Synthetic, Eon, that although was labeled as a 10-40 was way to light, when the engine and oil warmed up the viscosity got so low the oil pump couldn't provide enough volume to keep the pressure up, engine damage resulted. To their credit both companies, came, saw and paid for the customers engine repairs-then studied the issue and corrected it.

My only word of advice make certain what you put into the crankcase is the right grade and viscosity.

Motorcycle oil seems to be a religion to some, but in reality if the grade and viscosity is right I'd hazard a guess you'd be okay. Although if using expensive oil makes you feel good, then you should use it, because "If it feels Good, then do it!"

John

 

Tempest in a Tea Pot

As a veteran of untold oil threads it never ceases to amaze me why so many people think that one oil is so much better than another. I say that in the context we are talking about oil that meets or is close to manufacturers specs. That goes for change interval specs too. Something to think about. Have you EVER seen a case when oil that met or was close to spec causing a part failure? Have you ever seen any proof that shortening the change interval made the engine last longer? Have you ever seen engine analysis reports on what happens to oil if you go beyond recommended change intervals? (most that I have seen show you can extend oil intervals within limits without any impact) Last but not least, the majority of riders either sell or crash their bike way before the impact of whatever oil or change interval is used.

 

I'm not sure this even qualifies as a full two cents - but I think if you've run your engine before the oil change to warm up temp, then change the oil, then start your machine (especially in a horizontal oriented configuration) there is plenty of oil on the cylinder and other 'rubbing' bits to cover the few seconds until the filter is filled and the pump is spraying fresh oil all over the moving parts again. It's not really a "dry" dry start.