[JetSpeed]

Yesterday I added SAE connector directly to battery terminals. Not without problems.
After reconnecting the battery, did time and date setup. Also, I did something a guy on youtube suggested and that is "teach the computer" about throttle min and max position. I do not know if in 2017. model 1200 GS it should be done or not, but I did it. Now my throttle response seems to be better. There is no that much initial throttle delay. Is this real or just my imagination?

Did the Youtube video show the throttle learn procedure being accomplished with a GS911?

 

[BMW]

No.

It was RT, but I thought it is the same game with computers.

Here it is:

 

[BMW]

It is at 4:30

 

[BMW]

Known issue that is caused by applying inadequate throttle as you launch, these bikes are funny this way everything seems normal and the bike starts to get rolling and the motor immediately dies....just dies. Give it a bit more gas and it will be fine.

I believe I solved this problem by changing original IAT sensor with Italian mod. It makes the mixture richer at low rpm.
belinassu.it

Italian site can easily be translated.

Tested it around the house. Looks OK. Twenty-something screws (4 types) have to be removed to uncover right-hand side of plastics.
Exchange is simple.

 

[JetSpeed]

On the LC GS's any sensor that is modified may initially show an improvement but the bikes onboard computer will eventually nullify the modification.
At least that is my understanding.

 

[BMW]

This is the google translation from Italian. Sorry for mistakes. Do not have time to fix this now.

Please see if it makes sense. It looked believable to me.:

"A typical FAQ is how effective a SMART IAT is, and how the LAMBDA probe behaves after changing carburetion in this way. The common objection is that the Lambda probe "becomes aware" of the modification, canceling the benefit initially obtained after a while.
Specifically, many have asked me: "... but after a while 'signal Lambda does not report the carburetion to the factory by nullifying the fattening obtained with the SMART IAT?"
The answer is obviously "NO" otherwise it would not have made sense all the disquisition up to here produced. The reasons are essentially two:
1) The operating environments in which these two probes work (iat and lambda) are different. The Lambda operates only in certain regimes and especially in "closed loop", when the engine is at constant regimes and constant gas openings, while the IAT gives its most contribution in the "open loop", in the "open and close". That is to say when we ask for or remove power or we ask for more fuel to the injection system (and the lambda signal is temporarily ignored by the ECU). Put simply, calibrating a gasoline increase through the IAT is a rational operation, doing it through the modification of the NO lambda. With this point I also made it clear why I DO NOT MODIFY THE LAMBDA, nor do I think it makes sense.
2) The modification of the carburetion obtained with the SMART IAT is cmq relegated to a precise "range". We are working on an engine that works in stoichiometric conditions. We are not increasing the "nose" petrol as you would with a fixed resistance or with potentiometers, but we are acting in a precise way so as not to go beyond the optimal level of air / fuel ratio which returns the best performance. And with this point it is also unveiled why someone claims to the sword that modifying the iat is stupid or an urban legend. Those who have tried with resistors, potentiometers or incorrect NTCs, have modified the power "ad minchiam" (as the Romans used to say) and sooner or later the lambda feedback intervened, which smoothed everything that had been done inconsiderately on the IAT signal. Understand now why the additional modules require the disabling / modification of the Lambda (and someone wrongly implements only that)?
With this paragraph I hope to have definitively thwarted doubts and skepticism about the relationship and functions of lambda / iat."

 

[Calvin&GS]

voting "operator error (during familiarization period)"

I have a 2017 GS and I have not stalled it yet during 600 miles - half of it in town. I did many gentle starts.
Assuming my bike represents a typical sample, I tend to think it's a matter of getting used to how the bike likes to be gas-ed?

 

[BMW]

I have a 2017 GS and I have not stalled it yet during 600 miles - half of it in town. I did many gentle starts.
Assuming my bike represents a typical sample, I tend to think it's a matter of getting used to how the bike likes to be gas-ed?

Which brings me to the following conclusion:

Not every bike is absolutely same as the other one, even if it is the same make and year. There will always be statistical differences in how any bike behaves. They come from the sum of statistical differences in the performance of their parts of which they are assembled.
For example, take the IAT sensor. It has a range of characteristics within a certain specification. Same is with lambda sensor and any other part. Like the drive by wire parts: Position sensors, motors, ECM. So bikes will be different by design. All those differences are probably small, but when you add them up the result is a spectrum of products (bikes) with different characteristics. Some are at the limits of the spectrum. Some are in between. Mine could be near one end of the spectrum, and someone else's near the other end.
It follows that everybody is probably right. Those who complain and those who do not.
So there are no winners here .

 

[Crucian]

Which brings me to the following conclusion: ....there are no winners here .

Or one could say, no losers. I accept that in life I swim in a river of unpredictable variables with the need to navigate, gently down the stream. When required, I give life more gas.

 

[marc]

I have stalled my bike taking off from stops.

Reason #1 -- I'm an idiot. While you can start in 2nd gear from a stop it takes a lot more clutch slippage. It really does help to start in 1st gear

Reason #2 -- On my bike ('13 wethead) clutch disengagement is variable. By that I mean where in the lever throw the clutch disengages varies, possibly due to different engine or engine oil temperatures. It makes 100% smooth clutch operation very hard. Because of that sometimes the clutch engages sooner than I expect with engine RPM too low. This is the most annoying flaw with my GS. I understand BMW made improvements over time.

 

[Calvin&GS]

Well, almost everyone speaks highly of hydraulic clutches compared to the cable operated counterpart.
I myself like the clutch on 2017 R1200GS for its ease of actuation (low effort), but I am still learning its engagement characteristic (after 600 miles, ½ in town traffic). And the full grasp (pun intended) of its engagement profile seems somewhat elusive. I have not stalled the bike, and I’ve done several 2nd gear starts without problem. But compared to my last bike (F700GS ridden for 20 kmiles), the “feel” is a bit more vague and doesn’t seem as linear. I’m pretty sure with more time I will be closer to being “one with it”. Just curios how other folks feel about the two.

 

[Rat Trap]

The clutch on my 2017 GS is so much better than my 14 Harley Road King. Like different planets different. The GS's clutch does "change" a little depending on if its hot or cold. Not a lot but it does change some.

 

[ahillesq]

I had a similar problem with my 2012 GSA and it turned out to be a bad throttle position sensor.

 

[PoppyGreg]

i noticed the same thing

curious at first and started analysing. Dawned on me after a while - after I'd checked everything. I'm getting porkier.
More throttle kicking off.
Solved.
Not having a shot at OP and not suggesting there isnt a problem, but often the bike will be fine - after all theyre a big weight to get moving from scratch.
Hope your panzer is ok
cheers
Greg

 

[judgedelta]

Having watched various techs (mechanics) move bikes and load on trailers at both Harley and BMW dealers, I notice that they always give it enough gas to insure that they don't stall the machine. They ride a lot of bikes in the course of a day. I take my cue from them...

You can be cool taking off with little throttle and very little sound, or, if that doesn't work, you can practice picking your bike up. Maybe not so cool.

 

[virkdoc]

Ressurection of an old thread.....but Ive stalled my bike umpteen times on traffic lights. So have learnt to give a little more twist to the right wrist. Dont know if the AF-XIED would help. Its a 2018 GSA.

 

[IntoGS]

Ressurection of an old thread.....but Ive stalled my bike umpteen times on traffic lights. So have learnt to give a little more twist to the right wrist. Dont know if the AF-XIED would help. Its a 2018 GSA.

I know this is an old thread, but I didn’t see anyone mention Hill Start Control. I often inadvertently activate it when stopping at a light. It takes a hard launch to overcome the brakes when activated. If I don’t notice the activation, I stall. I now check to see if it activated while waiting for a light to change. Then I disable it prior to launching.

 

[bosnjo]

Yesterday I activated hill start control on downhill road as I needed to stop and take of my helmet, and I didn't want to turn the engine off. After one minute I wanted to take off but didn't turn off hill start control as I knew it will turn off by itself on take off. It was my first time to activate hill start control on downhill. Well, as I went to take off, my bike stalled. It was my first stall on this bike.

 

[virkdoc]

Yes that might happen but this was happening to my bike all the times.....and umpteen other bikes coming into the dealership here in India. It came down to dirty throttle bodies.....cleaning them solves the issue and all bikes had filthy throttle bodies. The owners here are peeved that a world touring bike requires throttle bodies cleaning every few thousand kilometres. I installed a AFXIED and havent had the issue since.....dont know how its helping

 

[M'cai]

I'm quite surprised that after a couple of AFXIED comments, no one has popped in and suggested a BoosterPlug...

I added one to my '04 R1150GSA and it seemed to cure a lot of hiccups and lean stalls. When I got my (new to me) '15 GS LC, that was one of the first things I got, based on that previous experience.

The BoosterPlug is designed to make the air/fuel ratio slightly richer at idle, low RPM and during acceleration and deceleration to make engine run like you would expect from a premium motorcycle.

LOL...and yes, I've had my share of stalls too! That usually occurs when I forget what gear I'm in as I'm rolling up to a stop sign or red light (not noticing with my head on a swivel attempting to watch for traffic) and then try and take off in 2nd...or occasionally 3rd! 😒