[PerazziMx14]

The gas gauge and low fuel light sometime are not terribly accurate. Get in the habit of resetting one of the trip meters when you fill up and when you get to 200/220 miles start looking to top up the tank. Generally, you can go about 230/240 miles before out of gas. Of course, this depends on how many stop/starts or stop-n-go traffic you encounter per tank.

Check the upper swing arm boot to make sure it is not dry rotted or split then routine maintenance, gas and tires.

As a side not if you remove the seat and flip it over, you can adjust the two bars underneath from "regular" to "high". The seat set in either the regular or high position tends to lean forward and pushed the boyz into the tank. Most people run the front of the seat on the high setting and rear on the low setting. It levels out the seat and is much more comfortable. It will leave a gap between front of the seat and the tank but its only cosmetic. There is not impact to the bikes function.

Congrats and enjoy!

Cheers,

P-14

 

[Krons]

Congrats and glad it is working well for you.

Beyond maintenance noted above, for a daily rider TPMS may be worth considering. I just bought some Amazon aftermarket TPMS sensors...yet to install so can't advise on these yet. For $40-50 seemed worth trying.

You haven't mentioned luggage so a set of lockable panniers would be on my list next for a daily. Lots of options there based on preference.

 

[PerazziMx14]

Congrats and glad it is working well for you.

Beyond maintenance noted above, for a daily rider TPMS may be worth considering. I just bought some Amazon aftermarket TPMS sensors...yet to install so can't advise on these yet. For $40-50 seemed worth trying.

You haven't mentioned luggage so a set of lockable panniers would be on my list next for a daily. Lots of options there based on preference.

The 2007 may or may not have TPMS both of my 07's do not have them.

I have a set of really clean Jesse Pannier's and mounts if the OP is interested. Due to the camera angle, they look bulbus in the photos. In person they fit the lines of the bike very well and look are very proportionate.

 

[averageSecurity]

Congrats and glad it is working well for you.

Beyond maintenance noted above, for a daily rider TPMS may be worth considering. I just bought some Amazon aftermarket TPMS sensors...yet to install so can't advise on these yet. For $40-50 seemed worth trying.

You haven't mentioned luggage so a set of lockable panniers would be on my list next for a daily. Lots of options there based on preference.

I do have set of Vario cases and the top case as well. But I might go with Givi Outback Trekker once I get some dough. I like having alot of storage. I be definitely looking a TPMS, bike is running on stock rims, so it tubeless? I know majority spoked rims require a tube.

Edit: One more thing I have to ask, for the best mpg, what's the recommend speed and tire pressure? I really like riding this bike through 80 MPH but I bet it ain't helping the MPG at all.

 

[PerazziMx14]

If you like storage ditch the varios. They are overcomplicated and the thickness needed for the expansion mechanism sucks up a lot of interior space. The exhaust side especially when contracted is all but worthless. Also be cautious if you put a lot of weight in them. With no rear cross bar to tie the cases together the cases jiggle like a cow's milk bag when they are running to the barn at feeding time. Over time the plastic hooks can break.

My 1st BMW came with Varios and I thought the expandable feature was ingenious. After a while I realized that I hardly ever used the expansion feature. Eventually I bought another GS that had hard bags and the Vario's quickly fell out of favor. Since then, I have bought several other GS's that had Vario's and they were the 1ts thing I sold. The panniers do not bring a lot of money inf act there is a guy on ADV Rider that is giving a set away. The top case is more desirable and with the mount will bring around $300. If you have a Vario top case, it's a good idea to bolt it to the quick release base plate as they are known to self-detach at the worst time.

P-14

 

[Krons]

I do have set of Vario cases and the top case as well. But I might go with Givi Outback Trekker once I get some dough. I like having alot of storage. I be definitely looking a TPMS, bike is running on stock rims, so it tubeless? I know majority spoked rims require a tube.

Edit: One more thing I have to ask, for the best mpg, what's the recommend speed and tire pressure? I really like riding this bike through 80 MPH but I bet it ain't helping the MPG at all.

Your Varios should do til you decide what you want for the long haul. I have both Varios and soft bags, top loading is definitely less awkward.

On my 07 GSA I find MPG to be best at 65mph or less (40+mpg), seems to drop to 30-35mpg when I'm pushing over 75mph.

Your wheels are tubeless. Here's the TPMS system I got, easy valve cap replacement. I'll see how these work out.
EOCICI Motorcycle Tire Pressure... Amazon.com: EOCICI Motorcycle Tire Pressure Monitoring System, Wireless TPMS with 2 External Sensors, 7Alarm Modes, IP67 Waterproof, Real-Time Monitoring Tires' Pressure & Temperature for Two-Wheeled Motorcycle : Automotive

 

[abhi]

As a fellow buyer of a 2007 GS in 2022, how's it been going for you? I have only a few weeks into it at the moment.
Also, Perrazimx that's a lot of GS experience.

 

[Krons]

averageSecurity hasn't been back in a few months...but my 2007 GSA is running great.

I did a really thorough maintenance when I first bought it all the way to pulling the swingarm to replace the front boot and grease pivot bearings, replace the alternator belt, etc, etc and has been very trouble free with exception of a pinion seal going out in the final drive last year. Easy to do maintenance on these bikes.

 

[DirtDog]

My '06 has been faultless in the 7k+ miles I put on it since buying it in March with 23k on it. Just did routine maintenance & new tires & rode it 4k miles on a trip to Me. & back in July.

 

[Motogarden]

Hey I'm looking at a 2007 BMW R1200GS and it's at a great deal! I'm completely new to understanding BMWs however I do have a fair share of knowledge of Harleys. I'm wondering what is like maintaining the bike, operating it as a daily rider, and view points as a off road machine? I do know how to wrench and got plenty of tools too! Any advice and tips would be great!

My 2006 R1200GS has been religiously maintained, but she's had 100k+ miles and I'd take her 100 more. YMMV, or course. It's all about attention to detail. Pretty simple bikes. Adequate power. Hope that helps. Anything that's been WELL CARED FOR I've had a good experience. More than the bike itself. RZ350 is the exception, but I forgive her because she smelled so good.

Ride well and enjoy.

 

[abhi]

Nice to see, I have since put in close to 3k km over the Irish winter. Looking forward to warmer weather soon.

@Motogarden RZ350s I know what you mean by the 2smoke smell, had an RD350 myself.

 

[Baadharley]

Like the OP posted, I am also a Harley nut and miss my '98 FXDL that I put about 62k on that bike and my Ex got that. So, I'm looking at a 2007 R1200GS that was Vet-owned with about 60k miles and lots of extras for $6k/offer. The 2nd owner hasn't ridden it much and I'm intrigued to find something dual sport and go BMW this round, ralizing of course the parts are very expensive...but so is Harley. I too am very mechanically sound and can work on just about anything with a motor.

I'm looking at this next Fri, so glad I found this site and all of the helpful articles and suggestions.

Thanks!
Keith

 

[Krons]

Like the OP posted, I am also a Harley nut and miss my '98 FXDL that I put about 62k on that bike and my Ex got that. So, I'm looking at a 2007 R1200GS that was Vet-owned with about 60k miles and lots of extras for $6k/offer. The 2nd owner hasn't ridden it much and I'm intrigued to find something dual sport and go BMW this round, ralizing of course the parts are very expensive...but so is Harley. I too am very mechanically sound and can work on just about anything with a motor.

I'm looking at this next Fri, so glad I found this site and all of the helpful articles and suggestions.

Thanks!
Keith

Welcome Keith. Keep in mind a GS/GSA isn’t really a dualsport it is a ADV bike. If it dropped 200 pounds…realize I’m maybe nitpicking words a bit…

If you do plan to ride a lot of pavement something to consider. 🙂

 

[Baadharley]

Hi Krons-Thanks for the advice/comment! Yes, I should have rephrased that...you are correct. When I picture a dualsport, its like a 200lb KLR250 or something. Yeah, I know the GSA is heavier and I plan to mostly ride on the street and some dirt road trails.

 

[BigSteve7]

Very easy to work on ans service with common metric wrenches, sockets and Ta few common torx bits and common oils like Mobil 15W-50, 75W-90 gear oil and DOT4 brake fluid.

Off road as in off pavement or gnarly single track? Off pavement they are fine for mear mortals single track any 500lb bike is no fun. There are are few who can do it and make it look easy.

The Hexhead GS 2004 - 2009 R1200GS's are my favorite of all the GS's. If you end up buying let me know and i have a list of what I do to theses bike when I get a new one (currently working on the 12th R1200GS). It far more than BMW calls for but I like to go through them with a fine-tooth comb so I know it is the best it can be. If you want to post the general price, mileage, extras and location we can help with the valuation. Always better to ask "is this a good deal" verses "did I get a good deal"

Cheers,

P-14

Hi there, I’m looking at a 2007 R1200GS with 97000kms here in Australia for $7.5k. Very well looked after and maintained. I’ve offered $6k. What’s your thoughts? Thanks

 

[PerazziMx14]

Hi there, I’m looking at a 2007 R1200GS with 97000kms here in Australia for $7.5k. Very well looked after and maintained. I’ve offered $6k. What’s your thoughts? Thanks

As far as the bike I have no issues with the 2007. It is actually one of my preferred years. Post ABS and last year of original body style. Price wise I don't know the AUS market but thinking $6,000 US/ $3,800 USD is good as long as the bike is solid and has no oil leaks.

As an update to this thread since I posted on here I have bought a very low mileage, clean 2011 Camhead and can honestly say that while I'll always have a soft spot for Hexheads and will likley buy more given the choice between a Hex and a Camhead I'd take the Camhead. Lighter, slightly more power and slightly less weight.

 

[DirtDog]

All why I like my '12 vs. '06. Gearing is also slightly lower which is a good thing in the dirt & I like it better on road too. I notice the camhead is a much quieter motor than the hexhead, nowhere near the rattles of the hexhead. I'm not a fan of linked brakes but damn they stop good. It has ride modes for offroad too that come in handy when spinning up the rear as TC tends to weird out on that.

 

[TomSet]

Put you mind as ease servo assist ABS brakes were abandon after 2006. The 2007 went back to regular ABS brakes. The 2007's if you do have problems with eh ABS Module Master can rebuild them for $250.

$5000 is not a bad price but as always would be better if it had some farkles like panniers, aftermarket suspension, seat windscreen etc.

If you like the bike I'd say go for it. The mileage is of no concern but there are some things that should be checked even before you buy.

• The rubber boots on the swingarm at the rear drive and transmission should be checked for cracks. Not had to replace but they are about $105 for tha pair and for the 1st time it'll take and afternoon.
• The rubber boot on the ball joint at the front shock. Much less involved to replace but it'll still take time and about $30. If it was run for a long time and the ball joint got dirty and needs replaced, then it a lot more expensive.
• With the bike on the center stand kneel on the left side of the bike and grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o-clock and push and pull. If the wheel has more than 1mm of movement the rear dive will need the big bearing replaced. Depending on how much movement sooner than later. Also rotate the wheel 90 degrees and check again. Repeat until you've made one revolution.
• Verify the heated grips work. Start the bike and turn the heated grips on. Within about 20 or 30 seconds they should start getting hot.
• Pull the seat and see what it looks like underneath. If it clean, dirty or a rat's nest of accessory wring. Unfortunately, many DIY'ers think they are 12v electricians because they got the socket or aux light to power up. The reality is they string whatever wire they could find and use cheap automotive connectors with electrical tape holding it all together. I rip all that stuff out and do it poperly.

Once home it's a good idea to hinge the rear drive down to clean, check and lube the driveshaft and rear drive splines with a good spline lube or high impact grease.

Cheers,

P-14

I am new to this forum so here goes my first post. This has been an excellent string of information on this model bike! I too and going to go look at a 2007 in the next few days for same price and similar miles. This will be my first Adventure sport style bike. coming from a Suzuki C50T. This 1200 Includes 3 BMW hard cases keyed to ignition, Zumo GPS, new Shinko tires and a few others. Will use the check list above to evaluate the condition.
As this doesn't have cruise control, what suggestions are out there for throttle locks or other?

 

[Krons]

As this doesn't have cruise control, what suggestions are out there for throttle locks or other?

Welcome to the forum! My 07 GSA has a Kaoko throttle lock and a wide CrampBuster—works pretty well.

On long stretches key is to set the throttle lock enough to provide resistance but not too tight to fatigue your wrist making small adjustments. Then use the heel of your wrist on the crampbuster as to not wear out your fingers. I use the long skinny CrampBuster on my DRZ400, kind of a preference thing on whether you’ll prefer the wide one or longer skinny one.

 

[TomSet]

Welcome to the forum! My 07 GSA has a Kaoko throttle lock and a wide CrampBuster—works pretty well.

On long stretches key is to set the throttle lock enough to provide resistance but not too tight to fatigue your wrist making small adjustments. Then use the heel of your wrist on the crampbuster as to not wear out your fingers. I use the long skinny CrampBuster on my DRZ400, kind of a preference thing on whether you’ll prefer the wide one or longer skinny one.

Most helpful. Thank you.