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Just received my aluminum throttle cam

3K views 26 replies 7 participants last post by  Krons  
#1 ·
Following PerazziMx14 suggestion, I checked my cams and I found one broken. I want to keep that bike for a long time so, I went with more robust cams. They arrived yesterday from Bulgaria.

I'll install them this weekend and post pictures.
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#3 ·
If any of you have specific questions about the install process, let me know and I'll try to get appropriate pictures.

By the way, I'm not affiliated with the vendor, maybe I'll install them wrong, follow my advices/procedures at your own risks (as with anything you see on Internet).
 
#4 ·
If memory serves they provide a fairly good pictorial on how to disassemble the TB. The key thing are you'll need a good set of internal snap ring pliers to remove the circlip on the throttle body shaft. Also note you have to be very careful and only apply enough pressure to expand the circlip just enough to get it to come out of its groove and slide off the shaft. It is very east to apply too much pressure and stretch the circlip.

The biggest issue many have is getting the chrome cap odd the right side throttle body to expose the circlip. I have developed a very effective method (for me) that is quick, easy and allow you to reuse the cap as it not damaged upon removal.

If you get a set of tamperproof Torx bits (HF in the US of A has then for about $7 a set) you can remove the 3 screws that hold the plastic bracket to the TB off for a super deep cleaning. Whatever you do, DO NOT adjust the throttle stop screw. It have a glob of blue paint on it. It does not matter f the paint washes off DO not move, adjust loosen or tighten this.

After I clean the the throttle bodies in soap and hot water and or the ultrasonic I rinse them with hot water then dry them off with compressed air, especially the needle bearings where the TB shaft goes through. Once I am confident the bearing are dry I put a section of tape on the inside of the opening then fill the bearing up with ATF or other light oil. After it sits a few seconds I dump the oil out then run a Q-tip around to sop up any excess oil.

s one more side note: I have taken to scribing a match line on the butterfly plate verses using a sharpie. It does not take much to wash off the sharpie mark. The scribed line holds up much better to cleaning.

Its not a hard task just make sure you are in the right frame of mind have all you tools and components at the ready in a well lighted clutter free work area stay calm cool and collected and in a few minutes you'll be done think what was all the fuss about.

Chrome cap removal:

For those who are attempting to replace and/or reinforce the throttle body pulleys on your Hex/Camhead BMW the chrome cap on the right side that covers the circlip is the biggest hurdle for most. Here is a pretty easy drama free way to remove it and not bitch it all up so you can reuse it.

Red arrows where the tip of the screwdriver will go.

TB1.jpg


Butterfly marked and top of TB marked for reference so you get everything back together the same way it came apart. This is where I now use a scribe in lieu of a sharpie

TB2.jpg




Lower tab on the TB pinched in a vise. I used a couple pieces of cutting board as softies so the jaws of the vise did not mar the soft aluminium alloy of the TB. A couple scraps of wood would also work.

TB3.jpg




Next with a long-ish flat blade screwdriver place the tip against the cap and the shaft against the TB body (you want to keep the screwdriver parallel to the boss as possible) and give it a few taps with a hammer. Then move to the other side and repeat. You do not what to have the screwdriver at an extreme angle to the boss or it will dig into the metal of the TB.

TB4.jpg




Move to the other side and again a few taps.

TB5.jpg




Keep moving one side to another until the cap is worked off the boss.

TB6.jpg




Remember you are not driving 16 penny nails into an oak board. Fairly light strikes with the hammer against the screwdriver handle are what you use. Start out light and only if the cap is not moving amp up the strike force a little bit and try again.

Also remember to move back and forth. A couple of strikes on one side then more to the other. This will "walk" the cap off off the boss.

I've read the post where people have spent hours trying to get the cap off and eventually ruin it because they got frustrated and got out the cutting tools. This process above once the TB s chocked into the vise takes only a few seconds and leaves the parts usable
 
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#7 ·
Installation began today, one throttle body is disassembled (right side). Even if the crack on the pulley was small, it was scary easy to break away the black plastic pulley. I just grabbed it with pliers and it snapped off.

Tonight or tomorroy, I'll build a jig to hold and drill the bracket then clean the throttle body, re-assemble everything and go for the left one.

After that, valve check/adjust while engine is cold then carb synch and ride...
 
#10 ·
Work is done on both sides, looks good, it's a shame that is not visible from outside...
Bike started and run ok but, it necessary to synchronise the throttle bodies correctly.
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The 'jig' I made for drilling (just a block of hardwood with a hole)
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Contersink the holes
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Dont forget to file flat the underside of the brackets.

As a final note, the right pulley broke off easily, the left one was worst... It broke off just when I moved it to disconnect the cable. As mentionned by PerrazziMX14, check yours ASAP.
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#11 ·
It is not necissary to sync the throttle bodies unless you are haing a issue with the bike right off idle. Throttle syn is only valuable at >25% throttle AKA just off idle.

As a side note in some instance haning idle has been expierenced after chiang out the pulleys. I don't know what causes it nor does anone else but it can happen. My 2007 will run perfect for days and then all of a sudden in 1st or 2nd gear the idle will hang. Pullin the clutch and it idles high and eventually will drop to normal after a few seconds or as soon as you put it in neutral it'll fall back to normal idles speed. I have synced the carbs, reset the gear sensor, TPS reset, steppers cleaned/checked/rest, checked the cables + anything/everything else tha can be checked, no faluts or codes and sill it does it spruatically. Bike warm, cold, hot doesn't matter. There is no rhyme or reason it just happens. The only common thing is putting it in neutral imedieatly drop it back to normal idle.
 
#13 ·
It is not necissary to sync the throttle bodies unless you are haing a issue with the bike right off idle. Throttle syn is only valuable at >25% throttle AKA just off idle.

As a side note in some instance haning idle has been expierenced after chiang out the pulleys. I don't know what causes it nor does anone else but it can happen. My 2007 will run perfect for days and then all of a sudden in 1st or 2nd gear the idle will hang. Pullin the clutch and it idles high and eventually will drop to normal after a few seconds or as soon as you put it in neutral it'll fall back to normal idles speed. I have synced the carbs, reset the gear sensor, TPS reset, steppers cleaned/checked/rest, checked the cables + anything/everything else tha can be checked, no faluts or codes and sill it does it spruatically. Bike warm, cold, hot doesn't matter. There is no rhyme or reason it just happens. The only common thing is putting it in neutral imedieatly drop it back to normal idle.
I've seen this happen when the throttle plates are removed and / or shaft is cleaned on older throttle bodies. The plates should be indexed and matched to their body, btw. Sometimes, on older throttles / carbs there is enough wear that after disassembly / cleaning the shaft has enough side slop that the throttle plate edge will hang up on the soft aluminum body just before fully closing. You can check for this by reassembly the plate / shaft / body without the springs installed and then push / pull the shaft gently sideways while closing the throttle to see if there is any tendency to hang up.

If you have this, then you need to figure out some sort of spacer arrangement to keep the throttle plates centered, or you can very carefully radius the edges of the plates around the shafts to try and keep them from biting into the body sides.
 
#12 ·
Valve adjustement and throttle synch, activator and adaptation resets are part of my regular maintenance. Usually I do it during the winter but, since I moved the cable adjustment, I'll do it in advance. The motorcycle season here in Quebec (north-east of Canada) will be ending soon, that will be done for next year.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Hi everyone! Just wanted to share that there's now a new and improved version of the aluminum throttle pulley repair kit for the BMW R1200.
This updated version is completely plug & play — no drilling, no tapping, and no need to remove the metal throttle body cap.
Installation takes just a few minutes with a screwdriver and some threadlocker.
Even though the install process is much easier now, there’s absolutely no compromise in strength — the parts are still made from high-grade aluminum and built to last.
If anyone has questions or wants more info, happy to help!
Video example YouTube <- click here to see how the assembly is done, super easy.
 
#17 ·
Hi everyone! Just wanted to share that there's now a new and improved version of the aluminum throttle pulley repair kit for the BMW R1200.
This updated version is completely plug & play — no drilling, no tapping, and no need to remove the metal throttle body cover.
Installation takes just a few minutes with a screwdriver and some threadlocker.
Even though the install process is much easier now, there’s absolutely no compromise in strength — the parts are still made from high-grade aluminum and built to last.
If anyone has questions or wants more info, happy to help!
Video example YouTube <- click here to see how the assembly is done, super easy.
Looks to be the same vendor as @20-100 used, just a different design.
 
#22 ·
Both versions are made to the same quality. The new one simply brings a big improvement in installation – easier and quicker, with no need to disassemble,tap or drill the throttle body. I think those who got the earlier version shouldn't worry – the functionality is exactly the same, and the materials are just as solid.
 
#23 ·
Went to install today.
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Two small cracks on my 07, but pretty pliable plastic. Had to wrestle the part of it that was molded into the metal part. Resorted to carefully drilling this out (black piece in center).
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One side done, same for other…then…dropped one of the tiny screws. Looked everywhere, ugh. My local farm supply store with a good hardware selection is already closed. Messaged the vendor for specs and the suggestion they add an extra to the kit in the future.

Is decent design now that doesn’t require removing the shaft anymore. Can be done pretty quick. Just don’t drop any of the screws!
 
#24 · (Edited)
Went to install today.
View attachment 42290

Two small cracks on my 07, but pretty pliable plastic. Had to wrestle the part of it that was molded into the metal part. Resorted to carefully drilling this out (black piece in center).
View attachment 42289

One side done, same for other…then…dropped one of the tiny screws. Looked everywhere, ugh. My local farm supply store with a good hardware selection is already closed. Messaged the vendor for specs and the suggestion they add an extra to the kit in the future.

Is decent design now that doesn’t require removing the shaft anymore. Can be done pretty quick. Just don’t drop any of the screws!
Don’t drop any screws or work over a clean area over a towel or box to corral anything you drop.

No need to get the specs for the screw you dropped you already may have 5 of them. Remove one and take to the store, use a thread gauge and match it up .

Speaking of thread gauges one of the handiest tools I ever bought was a thread/drill/rivet gauge. Takes all the guess work out of it. Some of the best $18 I've ever spent.


Image
 
#27 ·
Thanks guys! @PerazziMx14 I like the box idea to catch small hardware. I took your advice on the clamp pliers, these ones I picked up worked excellent.
https://ebay.us/m/AlfBkZ

@Boxflyer and @CallMeSnake you were spot on, the supplier responded overnight via eBay with the same and said he’d include spares in future kits. Great guy:
Yes these little screws have a special talent — they can disappear into another dimension the moment they hit the floor. This can be really frustrating, sorry about that :( .

The one you’re looking for is an M3 x 6 mm stainless steel countersunk screw.
I’ll take note of your suggestion — from now on I’ll start adding two extra screws to each kit, just in case the garage floor monster decides to claim one again.

Best regards,
Ivan


My farm supply store about a mile from me had a bunch in stock…I picked up two lol…$0.45 a pop. Bike was buttoned up in about 20 minutes and runs like a top.