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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey I'm looking at a 2007 BMW R1200GS and it's at a great deal! I'm completely new to understanding BMWs however I do have a fair share of knowledge of Harleys. I'm wondering what is like maintaining the bike, operating it as a daily rider, and view points as a off road machine? I do know how to wrench and got plenty of tools too! Any advice and tips would be great!
 
Very easy to work on ans service with common metric wrenches, sockets and Ta few common torx bits and common oils like Mobil 15W-50, 75W-90 gear oil and DOT4 brake fluid.

Off road as in off pavement or gnarly single track? Off pavement they are fine for mear mortals single track any 500lb bike is no fun. There are are few who can do it and make it look easy.

The Hexhead GS 2004 - 2009 R1200GS's are my favorite of all the GS's. If you end up buying let me know and i have a list of what I do to theses bike when I get a new one (currently working on the 12th R1200GS). It far more than BMW calls for but I like to go through them with a fine-tooth comb so I know it is the best it can be. If you want to post the general price, mileage, extras and location we can help with the valuation. Always better to ask "is this a good deal" verses "did I get a good deal"

Cheers,

P-14
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Very easy to work on ans service with common metric wrenches, sockets and Ta few common torx bits and common oils like Mobil 15W-50, 75W-90 gear oil and DOT4 brake fluid.

Off road as in off pavement or gnarly single track? Off pavement they are fine for mear mortals single track any 500lb bike is no fun. There are are few who can do it and make it look easy.

The Hexhead GS 2004 - 2009 R1200GS's are my favorite of all the GS's. If you end up buying let me know and i have a list of what I do to theses bike when I get a new one (currently working on the 12th R1200GS). It far more than BMW calls for but I like to go through them with a fine-tooth comb so I know it is the best it can be. If you want to post the general price, mileage, extras and location we can help with the valuation. Always better to ask "is this a good deal" verses "did I get a good deal"

Cheers,

P-14
The price of the bike is 5 thousand dollars and the mileage is at 39k miles. I've been trying to find a GS around 6-7k and this one stood out to me. I checked in person and the bike I believe never was ridden offroad or hard. The pipes look really new and the overall condition of the bike looked totally clean. He bought it from a dealer and put 1k miles on it and doesn't want it because he has a street glide and his wife told him he has to try get rid of the bike. I did a test ride and everything runs pretty well. What worries me is learning about the Servo Brakes because the bike has ABS and the drive shaft. I daily ride my motorcycles and I plan this one to be ridden as a daily too! I'm not looking at single track right away but I do plan go out riding more than just gravel road when I get opportunity! And it has crash bars and factory vario bags and a garmin GPS system. For 5k I think it's a really good deal!
 
Put you mind as ease servo assist ABS brakes were abandon after 2006. The 2007 went back to regular ABS brakes. The 2007's if you do have problems with eh ABS Module Master can rebuild them for $250.

$5000 is not a bad price but as always would be better if it had some farkles like panniers, aftermarket suspension, seat windscreen etc.

If you like the bike I'd say go for it. The mileage is of no concern but there are some things that should be checked even before you buy.

  • The rubber boots on the swingarm at the rear drive and transmission should be checked for cracks. Not had to replace but they are about $105 for tha pair and for the 1st time it'll take and afternoon.
  • The rubber boot on the ball joint at the front shock. Much less involved to replace but it'll still take time and about $30. If it was run for a long time and the ball joint got dirty and needs replaced, then it a lot more expensive.
  • With the bike on the center stand kneel on the left side of the bike and grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o-clock and push and pull. If the wheel has more than 1mm of movement the rear dive will need the big bearing replaced. Depending on how much movement sooner than later. Also rotate the wheel 90 degrees and check again. Repeat until you've made one revolution.
  • Verify the heated grips work. Start the bike and turn the heated grips on. Within about 20 or 30 seconds they should start getting hot.
  • Pull the seat and see what it looks like underneath. If it clean, dirty or a rat's nest of accessory wring. Unfortunately, many DIY'ers think they are 12v electricians because they got the socket or aux light to power up. The reality is they string whatever wire they could find and use cheap automotive connectors with electrical tape holding it all together. I rip all that stuff out and do it poperly.
Once home it's a good idea to hinge the rear drive down to clean, check and lube the driveshaft and rear drive splines with a good spline lube or high impact grease.

Cheers,

P-14
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Put you mind as ease servo assist ABS brakes were abandon after 2006. The 2007 went back to regular ABS brakes. The 2007's if you do have problems with eh ABS Module Master can rebuild them for $250.

$5000 is not a bad price but as always would be better if it had some farkles like panniers, aftermarket suspension, seat windscreen etc.

If you like the bike I'd say go for it. The mileage is of no concern but there are some things that should be checked even before you buy.

  • The rubber boots on the swingarm at the rear drive and transmission should be checked for cracks. Not had to replace but they are about $105 for tha pair and for the 1st time it'll take and afternoon.
  • The rubber boot on the ball joint at the front shock. Much less involved to replace but it'll still take time and about $30. If it was run for a long time and the ball joint got dirty and needs replaced, then it a lot more expensive.
  • With the bike on the center stand kneel on the left side of the bike and grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o-clock and push and pull. If the wheel has more than 1mm of movement the rear dive will need the big bearing replaced. Depending on how much movement sooner than later. Also rotate the wheel 90 degrees and check again. Repeat until you've made one revolution.
  • Verify the heated grips work. Start the bike and turn the heated grips on. Within about 20 or 30 seconds they should start getting hot.
  • Pull the seat and see what it looks like underneath. If it clean, dirty or a rat's nest of accessory wring. Unfortunately, many DIY'ers think they are 12v electricians because they got the socket or aux light to power up. The reality is they string whatever wire they could find and use cheap automotive connectors with electrical tape holding it all together. I rip all that stuff out and do it poperly.
Once home it's a good idea to hinge the rear drive down to clean, check and lube the driveshaft and rear drive splines with a good spline lube or high impact grease.

Cheers,

P-14
Thanks man! I know cleaning and lubing that final shaft is gonna be a little pain the butt but I definitely would love to keep this bike around for a while! Tomorrow I'll be looking at the bike one more time and I'll decide if I give the check!
 
Where are you located? I only ask because if you are close to south central Pennsylvania, I can lessen you learning curve and also have a lift, tools and tire machine.
 
Thanks man! I know cleaning and lubing that final shaft is gonna be a little pain the butt but I definitely would love to keep this bike around for a while! Tomorrow I'll be looking at the bike one more time and I'll decide if I give the check!
To change the final drive oil on a 2007 you need to drop down the driveshaft anyway so lubing the (rear) splines is a simple extra step when changing that fluid.

In addition to the info above I'd plan on changing the alternator belt if it has never been done. Not a too difficult job.
 
To change the final drive oil on a 2007 you need to drop down the driveshaft anyway so lubing the (rear) splines is a simple extra step when changing that fluid.

In addition to the info above I'd plan on changing the alternator belt if it has never been done. Not a too difficult job.
If he ends up picking up the GS I have a whole list, I stuff I like to do to them to get them up to my spec. Not all are needed but it's nice to know it's done.
 
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Hey bud, I'd like to see your list. New to me '07 GS on the way tomorrow...
P-14s [excellent] list at this link below:
 
Hey bud, I'd like to see your list. New to me '07 GS on the way tomorrow...
What I do in no particular order:

  • Flush/bleed brakes
  • Change all the oils (engine, trans, rear drive)
  • Pull the swingarm to inspect, clean, lube and/or replace pivot bearing
  • While swingarm is off clean, inspect, lube entire driveline and splines nd rubber boots
  • Pull air filter and inspect. Replace if dirty
  • Clean inside of air box
  • Check/set the valves
  • Check rear drive for excessive play
  • Check front wheel bearings
  • Check steering ball joint
  • Pull the tank off to inspect and clean underneath.
  • Check and demo and dodgy accessory wiring.
  • Wash and detail the bike (to get to know every nook and cranny).
  • Replace missing fasteners and fix anything you find loose and/or broken
  • Add any accessories like lights or USB outlets.
  • Remove farkles I won't use.
  • Check/replace spark plugs

The above is a lot of stuff and akin to killing fly's with a sledge hammer but I don't do it all in one sitting. I peck away at the list over a couple days or weekends. Once complete i have a baseline for future maintenance established. I also like working on bikes and this gives me an opportunity to really go over the bike with a fine tooth comb.
 
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With all the specialized advice you are already getting, I cannot add much except for the fact that my own 2007 GS , sold since long, is still running faultlessly and, according to the present owner , has reached the140.000 miles mark by now.
He has no intention whatsoever to get rid of his bike anytime soon...
 
I have owned two 2007 R1200GS's. The reason I like them is because it was after servo brakes and before all the electronic issues. My first one went over 100K miles. The guy who bought my second 2007 has around 70K miles on it. Both ... no real issues. It's a solid bike. It will go anywhere you want to go.

Image
 
With all the specialized advice you are already getting, I cannot add much except for the fact that my own 2007 GS , sold since long, is still running faultlessly and, according to the present owner , has reached the140.000 miles mark by now.
He has no intention whatsoever to get rid of his bike anytime soon...
Wow 140k. Now I need to know what he did to keep it running that long!
 
Wow 140k. Now I need to know what he did to keep it running that long!
Buddy of mine has several oil head GS's with 180,000 + miles on them. Nothing more than routine maintenance and if and when a part breaks or fails take care of it. Both bike are still on their original clutches and neither has had motor or transmission work.

Cheers,

P-14
 
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What I do in no particular order:

  • Flush/bleed brakes
  • Change all the oils (engine, trans, rear drive)
  • Pull the swingarm to inspect, clean, lube and/or replace pivot bearing
  • While swingarm is off clean, inspect, lube entire driveline and splines nd rubber boots
  • Pull air filter and inspect. Replace if dirty
  • Clean inside of air box
  • Check/set the valves
  • Check rear drive for excessive play
  • Check front wheel bearings
  • Check steering ball joint
  • Pull the tank off to inspect and clean underneath.
  • Check and demo and dodgy accessory wiring.
  • Wash and detail the bike (to get to know every nook and cranny).
  • Replace missing fasteners and fix anything you find loose and/or broken
  • Add any accessories like lights or USB outlets.
  • Remove farkles I won't use.
  • Check/replace spark plugs

The above is a lot of stuff and akin to killing fly's with a sledge hammer but I don't do it all in one sitting. I peck away at the list over a couple days or weekends. Once complete i have a baseline for future maintenance established. I also like working on bikes and this gives me an opportunity to really go over the bike with a fine tooth comb.
Great list, this is going in my binder!
Buddy of mine has several oil head GS's with 180,000 + miles on them. Nothing more than routine maintenance and if and when a part breaks or fails take care of it. Both bike are still on their original clutches and neither has had motor or transmission work.

Cheers,

P-14
Incredible! What year was this bike your talking about? Mines a '07
 
Great list, this is going in my binder!

Incredible! What year was this bike your talking about? Mines a '07
One is a 2002 R1150GS not sure the year of the other one.

Here's a pick of my buddy from May last year. I was fortunate enough to be able to be on thos ride to share this milestone with him. This is also on of the GS with 180,000+

Image





Here's the other. He he is picking a 55 gallon drum I got him


Image
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
I bought the bike and I be honest. I used to work as a salesman for Harley Davidson and had opportunities to ride their bikes even the Pan Am. The fact this all stock 2007 R1200GS rides better than my 2021 Heritage is scary. Better than any bikes I recall riding too. I am in awe! The bike has been inspected and I changed the oils and lubed the splines last night. Alot of work but riding this morning was amazing. I got a few ideas going for it but I plan it to be a daily. Any recommendations for daily a R1200GS and what are things to look out for? Plus, I'll share pictures of the bike when I get off work but I honestly believe I made an amazing purchasing decision!
 
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