Odd to have a fuel gauge issue as the 2004 - 2006 had fuel floats and not strips.

Who is the company that van rebuilt the iABS in Idaho? If you are referencing Module Master, they do not. There is a company in the Netherlands (if memory serves) that rebuilds them but it is prohibitively expensive and has a long turnaround. In any event if the iABS is failed then it hurts the value of the bike.

All the oil leaks point to splitting the bike to access them for repair. While in this deep time to really look at the clutch. Again these items ALL further devalue the bike.

The suspension is nice if within its service life and sprung for the rider. If the suspension needs rebuilt resprung its again is a bit of a value detractor.

I have bought a couple Hexhead GS/GSA and while none of this stuff scare me as a buyer but the value of the bike would be slightly above salvage value. If you relied on a dealership to make the repairs not including the iABS-III you'll be in the $1500 to $2500+ range or $3000+ if the clutch gets replaced. Then there are things like tires, rubber driveline boots, ball joint bellows that all add up if they need replaced. Driveshaft if it needs replace (I have two bikes that needed this done one had 15,000 miles the other was around 45K) is another $700 for a driveshaft from Ted Porter or $1200 for OEM. Rear drive if it needs rebuilt another $800 form Antione in Virginia.

So couple all the above together and if you can and are willing to do the work keep the bike and invest the money and sweat equity and get it back in shape or ride it as is until something fails and stops, you from riding anymore then sell it as a non-runner or sell it off as is at a discounted rate and let someone else take the risk.

FWIW if you planning on using a dealer to perform any work you may want to check to see if they will even work on your GS, we are hearing more and more stories of dealerships not working on bike 10 year of age or older.

To keep the bike running and in tip top shape here is a list of things I do to a new to me Hexhead GS. This is over and above repairing internal leaks like you are experiencing. This will also help the bike but there is no guarantee that any of this stuff will make it last 1 more mile or 100,000 more miles.

• Throttle cable pulleys check for crack and replace of needed. More often than not at least one is cracked.
• Engine oil and filter change
• Trans and rear drive oil change
• Brakes flushed and bled.
• Brake calipers cleaned and inspected. Pads replaced as needed.
• Rear drive removes and needle pivot bearing cleaned and lubed
• Drive shaft pulled to inspect then cleaned spline lubed and a thin film of grease on the raw metal to help protect it
• Swingarm comes off for cleaning and to clean, inspect, repack or replace the pivot bearings
• Swingarm rubber boot cleaned inspected and replaced if needed
• Telelever ball joint rubber inspected and replaced as needed
• All body work comes off to inspect what lies beneath.
• Bike get cleaned and detailed
• Any aftermarket wiring is inspected and corrected.
• Omit any aftermarket accessories I do not want or will not use
• New air filter
• Foot pegs come off to clean and lube the pins
• Dash and headlight bucket removed for more cleaning and detailing. Chen the bulb plugs. The OEM Bakelite ones get brittle and crumble. Replace as needed
• Make obvious repairs
• Front wheel pulled and wheel bearing checked/replaced as needed

Sice note you mention that you bleed the brakes every 8 months? 8 month id excessive but if it make you feel better there is no harm. When you bleed the brakes do you also flush and bleed the iABS-III system according the proper procedure? If not it is suggested that this be done every 10,000 mile or two years whatever comes 1st.

If you need a copy of the iABS-III flush/bleed procedure lt em know and I can get you a copy. Also if your throttle body pulleys are cracked and you want to replace them I have posted a couple tutorials on how to do this.

Two weeks ago my buddy from TN stopped buy to say hello on his 2008 GS. I put his bike on the lift and found both throttle pulleys were cracked. Fortunately in anticipation of his trip and knowing that at least one side would have been cracked I had a freshly rebuilt set of throttle bodies waiting for him. Within about 90 minutes his old TB's were off and new one's installed. He was amazed when with the slight pull both his pulleys came off the metal boss wondering how they did not fail while on the bike.

 

Keep your 05 GS. I have the same model, and it now has 90,000km on the clock. I removed the ABS and bypassed it so i have conventional brakes. The brakes are excellent, and I don't care about ABS. I also have aftermarket suspension, and a good custom seat. The newer models are more refined, but are also much heavier, which may be of concern with more advanced age. As P-14 mentioned above, have a look at your throttle pulleys. They can crack, and cause issues - may be worth replacing. I did mine as they had minor cracks.

cheers

 

If you can afford it why not buy a new or newer bike, with a new bike you get a full 3 year 36000 mile warranty so you can ride with peace of mind plus the 1200/1250 engines are pretty well bullet proof so buy the newest bike you can afford and be happy.

 

Thanks for the input PerazziMx14. I just checked modular Masters website and they do list the 2005 R1200GS as rebuildable and the price is $750. I had already rebuilt all three of my calipers and done most of the guidance you provided. I was not aware of the pulley issue? I will give that a look. My occasional oil drips come from very very minor leaks out of the clutch slave unit and the gear position indicator... I think I'll let them leak slightly rather than spend $275 for parts to repair?

 

Module Master website has had the same statement "This rebuild is currently waitlisted and waitlist is closed due to overwhelming demand" for the last 4 or 5 years. They are effectively not rebuilding iABS-III units, nor have they been.

 

Thanks, dmsantam.
She still looks good even though she's starting to get a little gray.

 

Throttle body pulleys have been ordered dmsantam. I've been doing the antilock brake bleed in accordance with the beamer boneyard tutorial DVD.

 

Did you order new Bing parts or aftermarket pulleys? If you went with Big did you get pulley/shaft assemblies or pulleys only with the intent on modding you existing shafts?

 

I just bought a 2005 GS. I currently own a 2015 GSA and a 2016 RS. I've stripped alot of the weight from the 05 to get it lighter and more off-road capable. The servo brakes were bad so that's gone. I have an aftermarket exhaust. Overall I think I've eliminated around 25 pounds. The reason for this is because my GSA is just too much for me. It's more than 100 pounds heavier than my GS. It doesn't go in dirt as easily. It's really nice but I've dropped it in mud a couple of times and I don't like picking it up. As I get older, I want a bike that fits me. BMW keeps adding pounds to their new bikes and I'm not interested in adding weight. I like the technology. I wish they would make a shaft drive 800cc boxer with today's technology and yesterday's weight.

 

1738


The servo units weigh in at about 7lbs and it would not be unreasonable to think swapping out the OEM exhaust for aftermarket would shave off another 12 to 15lbs. The OEM muffler is heavy so it the catalytic converter. Another couple of pounds to shed if you don't carry a pillion is the pillion seat and foot pegs. Wheels and tire are a big one. Cast wheels are pounds lighter over the spoke wheels. SO are tires like A3's verses TTM's

The downside is shedding 25lbs on a 500lb+ bike is like throwing a deck chair off the titanic. The GS us still a big heavy bike, dropping 25+/- pounds just makes it a little less heavy.

 

Hello GS community,
I'm looking for input from long time GS owners. I'm 63 years old and ride a 2005 R1200GS (non adventure model). l purchased the bike in 2009. At the time of purchase it had 3.5k. The bike now has 40k. I own 3 other bikes so I've been able to keep my GS mileage somewhat low.
My GS has been reliable but I'm starting to ask myself if it time to move on to a newer bike? Now that I'm a bit older the thought of being broke-down in the middle of nowhere is more of a concern.
My bike has the usual gas gauge problem. My gauge goes from full to ¼ tank with nothing in between. My gearbox, clutch slave cylinder, & gear position indicator all have oil weeps that occasionally drip. I understand that the ABS brake modulator rebuild facility in Idaho is now able to rebuild 05-07 GS ABS brake modulator so an ABS failure is no longer a kiss of death! I'm aware that replacing the clutch plate and flywheel on this bike is complicated and EXTREMELY expensive.
I perform all my own maintenance on the GS & find it very easy to work on. Valve adjustment is a breeze. I've always bled the brakes once every 8 months or so with good quality brake fluid. I live in San Antonio TX so the humidity & moisture is low helping to extend the life of my brake fluid & ABS modulator. I've always changed the final drive oil before the service interval requirements. I also change final drive oil before any trips over 1500 miles (overkill). Valve adjustment and throttle body synchronization is done as per the maintenance schedule.
My GS is set up to be very comfortable with Ohlins shocks, Sergeant seat, & MV bar risers & Moose +4 windshield, zumo GPS. The bike has many Touratech, SW-Motech, & Altrider improvements plus a Remus titanium exhaust. The bike is primarily used on pavement but does see the occasional fire / logging road when necessary to get to a good campsite.
I just finished installing a replacement Quantum fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump electronic control unit, and new injectors. I have also back flushing the ridiculous "non-replaceable" fuel filter & cleaned all contaminants out of the bottom of fuel tank. I carry my original fuel pump and it's electronic control unit as spares.
I think my 05 GS is positioned for several more years of good service or am I missing something? Parts availability is becoming somewhat of an issue? I know everything can be found on eBay but that's not a great answer if you're sitting on the side of the road with an issue?
Riding 400 to 750 mi days is a very comfortable proposition on my GS. Compared to the new ADV offerings from this decade my GS has the manners of an old army jeep with a clutch & transmission that shifts more like a farm tractor but I really really like this bike and I think there's value in keeping my GS on the road or is it time to make a clean break and move on. I do a few short trips every year plus one 1,000 - 3,000 mile trip.
If I choose to keep riding, are there any maintenance suggestions for long-term durability. I've replaced the belt recently. I have seen many bikes being parted out that have had cam chain failures or cam chain tensioner / guide failures. My left tensioner is the newer upgraded one. Is there any advantage to replacing tensioners? My miles are low but my bike age is approaching 19 years? Your comments would be greatly appreciated, Steve

If you were to sell your bike, how much would you ask? And where are you located? Thanks.

 

40.000 miles, or 64.000 km is not so much for a well maintained BMW. But I understand your point of view. If you have the bucks and you don't trust it too much anymore, just sell your bike for a newer model wit lower miles on the clock.
For now for sure you can get a good price for it. If the troubles become worse, you sure have to let it rapaired first before selling it. Good luck and greetings from The Netherlands, Hans

 

If the iABS-III fails, you are left with about 90/95% of the initial no-ABS braking power if and when it fails no matter where you are.

No worries as there are plenty of other bypass tutorials to follow if and when you might need them. NO that I have bought a $19 bubble flare tool I can bypass the iABS-III system in a couple of hours with a 9" section of 3/16" brake line that cost me about $0.19 USD.

 

With that the 2007 ABS also had its issues. THe brush plate was a poor design and the brushes would hang up and the ABS would not be functional. There are a couple fixes for this.

1. Reprofile the brushes so they do not have the tendency to hang up
2. Graft a grush plate from a Ford Fiesta to the back of the existing ABS motor as it had a much more robust brush design.

Below are pictures of the ABS brake modulators from oilheads and Hexheads. As you will notice they are completely different units. Just because both versions have what are considered "servo assist" does not mean they use the same components or function/malfunction the same.

R1150 Brake Modulator

R1200GS BRake Modulator

 

Hello GS community,
I'm looking for input from long time GS owners. I'm 63 years old and ride a 2005 R1200GS (non adventure model). l purchased the bike in 2009. At the time of purchase it had 3.5k. The bike now has 40k. I own 3 other bikes so I've been able to keep my GS mileage somewhat low.
My GS has been reliable but I'm starting to ask myself if it time to move on to a newer bike? Now that I'm a bit older the thought of being broke-down in the middle of nowhere is more of a concern.
My bike has the usual gas gauge problem. My gauge goes from full to ¼ tank with nothing in between. My gearbox, clutch slave cylinder, & gear position indicator all have oil weeps that occasionally drip. I understand that the ABS brake modulator rebuild facility in Idaho is now able to rebuild 05-07 GS ABS brake modulator so an ABS failure is no longer a kiss of death! I'm aware that replacing the clutch plate and flywheel on this bike is complicated and EXTREMELY expensive.
I perform all my own maintenance on the GS & find it very easy to work on. Valve adjustment is a breeze. I've always bled the brakes once every 8 months or so with good quality brake fluid. I live in San Antonio TX so the humidity & moisture is low helping to extend the life of my brake fluid & ABS modulator. I've always changed the final drive oil before the service interval requirements. I also change final drive oil before any trips over 1500 miles (overkill). Valve adjustment and throttle body synchronization is done as per the maintenance schedule.
My GS is set up to be very comfortable with Ohlins shocks, Sergeant seat, & MV bar risers & Moose +4 windshield, zumo GPS. The bike has many Touratech, SW-Motech, & Altrider improvements plus a Remus titanium exhaust. The bike is primarily used on pavement but does see the occasional fire / logging road when necessary to get to a good campsite.
I just finished installing a replacement Quantum fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump electronic control unit, and new injectors. I have also back flushing the ridiculous "non-replaceable" fuel filter & cleaned all contaminants out of the bottom of fuel tank. I carry my original fuel pump and it's electronic control unit as spares.
I think my 05 GS is positioned for several more years of good service or am I missing something? Parts availability is becoming somewhat of an issue? I know everything can be found on eBay but that's not a great answer if you're sitting on the side of the road with an issue?
Riding 400 to 750 mi days is a very comfortable proposition on my GS. Compared to the new ADV offerings from this decade my GS has the manners of an old army jeep with a clutch & transmission that shifts more like a farm tractor but I really really like this bike and I think there's value in keeping my GS on the road or is it time to make a clean break and move on. I do a few short trips every year plus one 1,000 - 3,000 mile trip.
If I choose to keep riding, are there any maintenance suggestions for long-term durability. I've replaced the belt recently. I have seen many bikes being parted out that have had cam chain failures or cam chain tensioner / guide failures. My left tensioner is the newer upgraded one. Is there any advantage to replacing tensioners? My miles are low but my bike age is approaching 19 years? Your comments would be greatly appreciated, Steve

I just sold my 07 GSA with 82,000 miles on it. The only issue it had was the Fuel Gauge (Typical of these models).

Other than that bike ran flawlessly. Yours with only 40K is nothing for these bikes.

I miss mine so much. Perhaps I will get a newer used one at some point.

 

Hello GS community,
I'm looking for input from long time GS owners. I'm 63 years old and ride a 2005 R1200GS (non adventure model). l purchased the bike in 2009. At the time of purchase it had 3.5k. The bike now has 40k. I own 3 other bikes so I've been able to keep my GS mileage somewhat low.
My GS has been reliable but I'm starting to ask myself if it time to move on to a newer bike? Now that I'm a bit older the thought of being broke-down in the middle of nowhere is more of a concern.
My bike has the usual gas gauge problem. My gauge goes from full to ¼ tank with nothing in between. My gearbox, clutch slave cylinder, & gear position indicator all have oil weeps that occasionally drip. I understand that the ABS brake modulator rebuild facility in Idaho is now able to rebuild 05-07 GS ABS brake modulator so an ABS failure is no longer a kiss of death! I'm aware that replacing the clutch plate and flywheel on this bike is complicated and EXTREMELY expensive.
I perform all my own maintenance on the GS & find it very easy to work on. Valve adjustment is a breeze. I've always bled the brakes once every 8 months or so with good quality brake fluid. I live in San Antonio TX so the humidity & moisture is low helping to extend the life of my brake fluid & ABS modulator. I've always changed the final drive oil before the service interval requirements. I also change final drive oil before any trips over 1500 miles (overkill). Valve adjustment and throttle body synchronization is done as per the maintenance schedule.
My GS is set up to be very comfortable with Ohlins shocks, Sergeant seat, & MV bar risers & Moose +4 windshield, zumo GPS. The bike has many Touratech, SW-Motech, & Altrider improvements plus a Remus titanium exhaust. The bike is primarily used on pavement but does see the occasional fire / logging road when necessary to get to a good campsite.
I just finished installing a replacement Quantum fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump electronic control unit, and new injectors. I have also back flushing the ridiculous "non-replaceable" fuel filter & cleaned all contaminants out of the bottom of fuel tank. I carry my original fuel pump and it's electronic control unit as spares.
I think my 05 GS is positioned for several more years of good service or am I missing something? Parts availability is becoming somewhat of an issue? I know everything can be found on eBay but that's not a great answer if you're sitting on the side of the road with an issue?
Riding 400 to 750 mi days is a very comfortable proposition on my GS. Compared to the new ADV offerings from this decade my GS has the manners of an old army jeep with a clutch & transmission that shifts more like a farm tractor but I really really like this bike and I think there's value in keeping my GS on the road or is it time to make a clean break and move on. I do a few short trips every year plus one 1,000 - 3,000 mile trip.
If I choose to keep riding, are there any maintenance suggestions for long-term durability. I've replaced the belt recently. I have seen many bikes being parted out that have had cam chain failures or cam chain tensioner / guide failures. My left tensioner is the newer upgraded one. Is there any advantage to replacing tensioners? My miles are low but my bike age is approaching 19 years? Your comments would be greatly appreciated, Steve

I own the same bike. (2005 R1200GS) It has 45 k on it and I just recently had a clutch spline gear failure. That is the first and only problem I have ever had with this bike. I did the ABS delete myself 2 years ago, so don't have that problem. My previous bike was a 2011 R1200 GS Adventure. It was a great bike and I had no issues with it, but it was too tall and heavy for my liking. I sold it and bought the 2005 for a steal. This bike is stripped down with a lightweight exhaust and comes in about 70 lbs lighter than the 2011 GS Adventure did. I did the clutch replacement myself and can tell you first hand that it is a time consuming technical job, but not impossible for someone with moderate mechanical skills.
To answer your question, I will keep fixing my 2005 and ride it until the motor go's south. What I do know is,, the newer the bike, the more complex and difficult it is to diagnose problems, they put too many sensors, modules, and un nessassary creature comfort electronics on the newer bikes, making them less and less reliable.

 

But there is a fair amount of “electronics” on the Hexhead and it’s getting long in the tooth.

If you want a doomsday machine you’ll need to go back a few decades to a 70’s era Guzzi with pints and condenser ignition and components and assemblies that were meat to be rebuilt.

The trade off is you’ll get 70’s era tech a throttle pull that is about 28lbs and brakes that stopping time can be measured with a sundial.

Modern electronics love or hate them have proven to be reliable and have in a lot of ways uncomplicated systems and made diagnosing them easier. Plug in the computer and let it do the work.

 

If you still have it...definitely sell!

How much do you want for it?

 

Hello sir,, I am also 63 and own 2005 GS non adventure. I have done just about everything you can do to this bike to lighten it up and make it trouble free. I have 48k on mine and don't have any leaks, but the clutch gear (in center of plate) stripped out about a month ago. I chalk this up to my extreme amount of off roading. I just finished replacing the clutch plate myself with an upgraded version that can be soaked with oil and still work as it should. It is a long process where you have to take lots of pictures and mark all wires, bolts, fittings etc. The bike is basically split in half and to someone who has never seen or done this, its scary as hell. But I can assure you, it can be done by anyone with moderate mechanical skills. The dealership wanted $3500.00 plus parts. I did it for less than $300.00 because I only replaced the plate, nothing else was worn enough to justify replacing. You should never have to replace the flywheel on these motors, they are built like a sherman tank and will outlast the engine. The other thing I did a few years ago is eliminated the ABS completely, by removing the pump (9lbs) and bypassing the abs system so that I have great brakes without the weight or danger of abs off road. I put on a lightweight aftermarket exhaust pipe. I also bought 2 Cam Chain tensioner bolts kits, this has quieted my startup and warm engine noise by at least 1/2. I have pictures of both the clutch replacement and ABS removal if you are interested. I didn't do a youtube video like I should have.

 

Hello GS community, I'm looking for input from long time GS owners. I'm 63 years old and ride a 2005 R1200GS (non adventure model). l purchased the bike in 2009. At the time of purchase it had 3.5k. The bike now has 40k. I own 3 other bikes so I've been able to keep my GS mileage somewhat low. My GS has been reliable but I'm starting to ask myself if it time to move on to a newer bike? Now that I'm a bit older the thought of being broke-down in the middle of nowhere is more of a concern. My bike has the usual gas gauge problem. My gauge goes from full to ¼ tank with nothing in between. My gearbox, clutch slave cylinder, & gear position indicator all have oil weeps that occasionally drip. I understand that the ABS brake modulator rebuild facility in Idaho is now able to rebuild 05-07 GS ABS brake modulator so an ABS failure is no longer a kiss of death! I'm aware that replacing the clutch plate and flywheel on this bike is complicated and EXTREMELY expensive. I perform all my own maintenance on the GS & find it very easy to work on. Valve adjustment is a breeze. I've always bled the brakes once every 8 months or so with good quality brake fluid. I live in San Antonio TX so the humidity & moisture is low helping to extend the life of my brake fluid & ABS modulator. I've always changed the final drive oil before the service interval requirements. I also change final drive oil before any trips over 1500 miles (overkill). Valve adjustment and throttle body synchronization is done as per the maintenance schedule. My GS is set up to be very comfortable with Ohlins shocks, Sergeant seat, & MV bar risers & Moose +4 windshield, zumo GPS. The bike has many Touratech, SW-Motech, & Altrider improvements plus a Remus titanium exhaust. The bike is primarily used on pavement but does see the occasional fire / logging road when necessary to get to a good campsite. I just finished installing a replacement Quantum fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump electronic control unit, and new injectors. I have also back flushing the ridiculous "non-replaceable" fuel filter & cleaned all contaminants out of the bottom of fuel tank. I carry my original fuel pump and it's electronic control unit as spares. I think my 05 GS is positioned for several more years of good service or am I missing something? Parts availability is becoming somewhat of an issue? I know everything can be found on eBay but that's not a great answer if you're sitting on the side of the road with an issue? Riding 400 to 750 mi days is a very comfortable proposition on my GS. Compared to the new ADV offerings from this decade my GS has the manners of an old army jeep with a clutch & transmission that shifts more like a farm tractor but I really really like this bike and I think there's value in keeping my GS on the road or is it time to make a clean break and move on. I do a few short trips every year plus one 1,000 - 3,000 mile trip. If I choose to keep riding, are there any maintenance suggestions for long-term durability. I've replaced the belt recently. I have seen many bikes being parted out that have had cam chain failures or cam chain tensioner / guide failures. My left tensioner is the newer upgraded one. Is there any advantage to replacing tensioners? My miles are low but my bike age is approaching 19 years? Your comments would be greatly appreciated, Steve

What's the name and contact info for the module rebuilder ?

 

Module Master - Module Rebuilds done right.

Module rebuilds for darn near everything: ABS Modules, Climate Control Modules, Instrument Clusters, Power Accessories, Powertrain modules and more.

modulemaster.com

They rebuild the 2007 and later modules.