Conversion from fuel strip sensor to float without converter box as permanent fix - oil cooled bikes

UPDATE (12/24/2022): I was able to solve the calibration problem with the new float sensor. The accuracy is now very good, but I believe the fuel tank on the 2010+ R1200GSA must be shaped slightly differently. Previously, the fuel level would go from 100% to around 75%, then start heading back up again, after completing the modification. I took the tank back out and measured the resistance of the new float sensor, which is 4 to 88 Ohms. Also, with a 10-turn potentiometer, I measured the bike's reported fuel level (from the computer / ECU side) to be empty (warning light) at 82 Ohms and 100% full at 16 Ohms.

Further investigation revealed that the problem is mechanical, not electrical or software. The metal wire "arm" of the float sensor is not quite the right shape. It actually hits on the bottom of the tank and can't clear the transfer tube either. It needs to be bent up to clear both.

With some trial and error, I was able to bend the wire arm into a shape that gives a pretty accurate reading of the fuel level from 100% down to 0%. For the most part, you only need to bend the arm "up" (to a tighter angle), as shown in this picture (red line is the approximately original shape):



--------------------- Original Instructions ---------------------

Just wanted to let you know that I did the conversion from the defective fuel strip sensor to the float potentiometer sensor on my (newly acquired) 2008 R1200GSA with electronic suspension (ESA).

I followed the instructions at this UK GS forum: Instructions

One word of warning, the English at this British forum is barely comprehensible to me. As a result, it took all day to complete, but it worked without a problem.

The parts you need are float sensor 16148554065, a OBD Solutions MX+ Bluetooth adapter and OBD port cable adapter and the MotoScan ultimate app.

Remember to remove the old fuel strip sensor, which hooks on to a metal hanger that is suspended from the gas cap inlet area.

Loop the two blue wires from the new float around something, as pictured, so that they won't touch the float, or your reading could be affected.

Also, when you insert the new fuel pump/float assembly, the float will get lodged between the tank and the fuel transfer hose in the tank bottom. You'll need to then use a hook or long screwdriver to pull the float up and free.

UPDATE (12/24/2022): It is necessary to bend the wire "arm" of the new float sensor up to clear the tank bottom and the transfer hose. See the instructions at the top of this post. Otherwise, the fuel reading will stop at ~75% and never go any lower.

You must fully remove the tank to do the work because the ZFE computer wiring harness is under the tank, and you need to swap the pins. The instructions aren't clear, but the connector with the pins to swap is the upper one with the fatter wiring bundle.

To remove the inner wiring pin holders from the ZFE harness, you need to remove the top shell cover. To do this, carefully pry the back and front corners of the cover's flange up with a small screwdriver while sliding the shell forward. Do this successively in both sides until it is free.

I'm not sure if it's necessary to first clear the fuel strip fault with the resistor network pictured below, as is the case with the preobeemer.nl signal converter, but I did it anyway just in case. I doubt it's necessary, however because you are deactivating the fuel strip during programming.

Please ask if there are any questions. I don't recommend doing this work unless you are pretty good with mechanics and electronics, however.

REMEMBER TO BEND THE WIRE ARM OF THE FUEL SENSOR UP BEFORE INSTALLATING! SEE INSTRUCTIONS AT THE TOP OF THIS POST.















Hallelujah!!!